520 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 24, 1905. 
Cutting Asparagus. 
How long may we continue to cut Asmiag 
without injuring the roots for next year . We are 
not now getting so many sticks as we did a loi 
night ago. (A. N. W.) , 
You should not in any case continue to cut the 
shoots from Asparagus beds ^ter thoond of June 
Even the act of cutting oft tne shoots till the d 
of the month will have the eftect of making the 
crop later next year than if you were to leave off 
cutting at the end of May. Some people cut the 
useable shoots and leave the weaker ones to 
furnish the plants, but if you leave oft cutting at 
a reasonable time and then allow all the shoots 
to -row it will do your plants more justice than 
by “cutting useful heads so long as you can get 
them After the shoots that appear above the 
oround have been cut off it induces the live roots 
to push other buds, which m time become stems. 
All this takes time, so that you would not be 
doing your plants justice if any more shoots were 
removed after the end of the month and for 
early work you should leave some of the lows 
untouched after the end of May. 
Green Fly on Roses. 
For some weeks past green fly has been very 
bad on the Roses, and we are using very strong- 
soap-suds and tobacco water. The plants appear 
quite clean for a day or two, but the pest soon 
increases again. I should be greatly obliged if 
vou could suggest a more effectual cure. (Rose.) 
We are quite well aware that the aphides 
which attack Roses are very strong and active, 
and when disturbed by tobacco water or quassia 
water they either drop to the ground or craw 
underneath the leaves, where they shelter till all 
danoer is over, and then recommence operations. 
You may remember also that your neighbours 
probably have Roses, and even in the absence ol 
that fresh broods or colonies of aphides might 
come from wild Roses in the neighbourhood. 
Instead of tobacco water, we think that tobacco 
powder would be a more effectual cure because 
more lasting in its effects. You should damp the 
Roses with the syringe, and then dust the P°wder 
upon all the parts affected by green fly. 1 his 
powder may be left where it is until it gradually 
drops away or is washed off by rain. When the 
Roses have advanced to the flowering stage, the 
leaves and other parts get more or 1-ess hardened, 
and oreen fly is usually much less troublesome 
affcer°that sta-re. Even if some of the tobacco 
powder gets on the Rose buds, it would be less 
harmful and less unsightly than the aphides would 
make them by means of their excrement and cast¬ 
off skins. 
Pruning Forsythia. . . , 
We had a splendid bush of this in the garden 
border which flowered during March and April, 
but it is getting far too big for the border in 
which it is growing. Can it be pruned as recom¬ 
mended for Lilac a short time ago? (H. W.) 
You will be quite within reason to reduce the 
bulk of your Forsythia at this time, although it 
would have been much better if you had done so 
just after the plant finished flowering. Instead 
of reducing it to small dimensions at this late 
period of the year, you should merely cut back or 
shorten the more straggling of the branches, and 
content yourself to wait until next spring, just 
after the plant has finished flowering, and then 
reduce the size of the bush. All the flowers for 
next year will be produced on the shoots made 
during the present summer, so that to cut them 
a wav either now or in spring before flowering you 
would lose a season of its beauty, and even if you 
cut it back very severely immediately after flower¬ 
ing we could not guarantee that it will flower well 
the first season after that treatment, because it 
will he inclined to make strong wood rather than 
flowering shoots. If it becomes necessary, how¬ 
ever. you may cut it well within bounds when 
about it, and it will at least flower well the second 
spring. In future years you should take care to 
cut back all the young* wood immediately the 
flowers are past their best. This would keep the 
bush within bounds and at the same time give it 
an opportunity of producing and maturing 
shoots for flowering in the following spring. 
Plantains on a Lawn. 
We have a lawn about 30 ft. long by 20 ft. 
wide, and during the past, year the broad-leaved 
Plantain has been increasing fast. The mowing 
machine passes over the heads, leaving the grass 
very unsightly. How can they be destroyed 
without injuring the grass? (W. H. R.) 
We should not advise you to remove them at 
the present time, because the broad-leaved Plantain 
occupies a considerable amount of space, and no 
grass can grow beneath the leaves. To kill them 
or- remove the plants at the present time would 
make the lawn unsightly for the remainder of the 
summer, seeing that the dry warm weather is 
now likely to set in, if we are to have any this 
year. What we should recommend you to do is 
to cut the flower heads of the Plantains by means 
of a hook or a scythe and wait till autumn. 
Between autumn and spring you will have plenty 
of time to remove the Plantains and to make good 
the bare places in the grass. A boy or two with 
an old knife could soon clear a considerable space 
by simply cutting the Plantains well below the 
crowns of leaves. This would effectively clear 
them out of the lawn, and by keeping a close 
watcli upon it in after years you could remove 
every Plantain as it makes its appearance. The 
same applies to Daisies, which multiply rapidly 
in winter by each crown giving rise to several, as 
such plants delight in cool, moist weather. After 
the removal of such weeds, it would be well to 
top-dress the lawn with some rich soil or decayed, 
manure mixed with the soil if that would be per¬ 
missible in the situation. In any case the top- 
dressing of rich soil could be spread over the 
grass and well scattered first with a wooden rake 
and then with a broom. In a week or two it 
would have completely disappeared amongst the 
roots of the grass. If the soil is sifted before 
putting it on you would be able to get rid of the 
sticks and stones, thus saving a deal of labour 
in raking them up afterwards. In early spring 
and at intervals later on you could give a light 
top-dressing with lawn sand, and this would en¬ 
courage the growth of the Grass. 
Names of Plants. 
(C. B.) Asperula taurina or Taurian Woodruff. 
—(H. M. F.) The flowers from Ben He are: 1, 
Myrica Gale; 2. Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi; 3, 
Lycopodium Selago; 4, Rosa tomentosa sylves- 
tris; 5, Rosa tomentosa; 6, Anemone nemorosa; 
7, Rubus Chamaemorus ; 8, Populus tremula; 9, 
Oxalis Acetosella; 10, Galium saxatile; 11, 
Cotoneaster Simonsii (this is an escape or has 
been planted).—(J. C.) 1,. Sedum ternatum (no 
number was attached to this) ; 2, Saxifraga 
hirsuta dentata ; 3, -Saxifraga Geum ; 4, Saxifraga 
hirsuta; 5, Saxifraga cuneifolia infundebuli- 
formis; 6, Saxifraga rotundifolia; 7, Saxifraga 
Andrewsii.—(T. S. A.) 1, Centaurea montana ; 
2, Erinus alpinus; 3, Chrysanthemum roseum 
var. ; 4, Aquilegia ehrysantha var. ; 5, Geranium 
maculatum ; 6, Heuchera sanguinea.—(W. D. C.) 
I. Odontoglossum luteo-purpureum sceptrum ; 2, 
Odontoglossum Hallii ; 3, Oncidium sphacelatum ; 
4, Oncidium pulvinatum; 5, Laelia purpurat-a 
var.—<(D. B. Richards) 1, Philadelph us coro- 
nanus; z, Pernettva mucronata; 3, Laburnum 
alpinum; 4, Viburnum plicatum; 5, Viburnum 
Lantana; 6, Cytisus purpureus; 7, Syringa 
Josikaea.—(E. A. S.) 1, Iris pallida; 2, Astrantia 
major; 3, Doronicum Parda-lianches; 5, Cam¬ 
panula carpathica var. ; 6, \ eronica Teucrium 
dubia.—(R. C. D.) 1, Muscari comosum; 2, Cam¬ 
panula portenschlagiana; 3, Myosotis alpestris 
var. ; 4, Veronica Teucrium latifolia; 5, Saxifraga 
Aizoon; 6, Erodium Manescavii. 
Communications Received. 
Dobbie and Company.—Y. Z.—W. Taylor.— 
J. E. Tyler.—T. W. Dollery.—G. E. K.—D. C. 
J- B.—Cal.—W. M.—E. H. Hallett.—James 
McLeish.—W. Marriott.—Gershom.—B. R. Cant 
and Sons.—C. Blair.—Wm. Cutbush and Son.— 
Harkness and Sons.— Frank Cant and Company. 
—Wm. Paul and Son.—Paul and Son.—C. F D — 
E. F.—A. J. B.—W. W.—H. W, D.—R, S. 
Trade Catalogues Received. 
Kelway and Son, Langport, Somerset.— 
Ivelway’s Manual. 
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Contents of this Number. 
Asystasia bella ... ... ... ... ... 508 
British Gardeners’ Association . 503 
Crocus, chrysanthus ... ... ... ... 503 
Enquire within.519 
Garden city, the ... ... ... ... 504 
Garden, the flower ... ... ... ... 504 
Garden, the kitchen ... ... ... 504 
Gardens, our Northern ... ... ... 509 
Hardy herbaceous plants ... ... ... 505 
Heliotrope, a tub of ... ... ... ... 513 
Hoya bella ... ... ... ... ... 513 
Hyacinth, the Spanish 512 
Ivalmia latifolia ... ... ... ... 512 
Keer, Mr. Geo. E. ... ... ... ... 507 
Lawn mowers, and how to use them ... 506 
Lily of the Valley ... ... ... ... 508 
Linum arboreum ... ... ... ... 512 
Medlar, the Snowy ... ... ... ... 518 
Melocactus communis ... ... ... ... 513 
Orchids ... ... ... ... ... ... 505 
Paris horticultural exhibition ... ... 513 
Plants, to protect tender ... ... ... 509 ( 
Poem, a picture ... ... ... ... 517 
Poultry and pets ... ... ... ... 518 
Replies, supplementary ... ... ... 518 
Ribes aureum aurantiacum ... ... 513 
Saxifraga oppositifolia alba ... ... ... 512 
Saxifrages ... ... ... ... ... 514 
Schedules of the R.H.S. ... ... ... 503 
Scilla hispanica ... ... ... . 512 
Selaginellas and their cultivation . 507 
Snowball tree, pruning the ... 517 
Society doings ... ... ... . 515 
Stove and greenhouse ... ... ... 504 
Temple Show,.echoes from the ... ... 507 
Trees and shrubs, hardy ... ... ... 506 
Tr Ilium grandiflorum 514 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
Heliotrope, a tub of ... ... ... ... 510 
Hyacinthus amethystenus ... ... 510 
Ivalmia latifolia .51C 
Keer, Mr. Geo. E. ... ... ... ... 507 
Lady in white ... ... ... ... ... 517 
Linum arboreum ... ... ... ... 511 
Mejocactus communis ... ... ... ... 511 
Protecting plants, contrivance for. 50£ 
Saxifraga oppositifolia alba. 51C 
Scilla hispanica 51C 
