THE GARDENING WORLD . 
523 
Tuly 1, 1905. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
Rosa rogosa Blanche de Coubert. —The 
onth of June brings many beautiful Roses 
numerous variety, but the subject of this 
,te is one seldom grown to any extent, which 
to be regretted, because it is one of the best 
L cultivating with other shrubs owing to its 
ibust growth. It succeeds well without any 
>ecial'culture, which is not the case with 
any of the more delicate varieties. For 
lanting in large or small beds in the wild 
irden,° where one wishes to produce a bold 
feet, this is one of the best of shrubs, after 
icoming established ; the only attention 
bcessary is to give a light pruning of the 
ncrest shoots in early spring, which will pro- 
ace a free, bushy growth. Hard pruning 
(in, however, be practised, as with the 
>mmon R. rugosa, when the bushes have be- 
)>me too large for the space at command, 
lie flowers, which are semi-double and of the 
tirest white, are produced in profusion from 
tring until late in summer, and the large 
ieep green foliage is decidedly ornamental. 
Trees and Shrubs on Grass. —It is often 
iought that when a specimen tree or shrub 
once planted on a lawn, it will require little 
lore attention, and will, of its own accord, 
tow away into a healthy tree ; but its re- 
nirements must, of course, be studied. It is 
great mistake, when planting, to lay the 
rass right up to the stem, which prevents air 
nd water getting to the roots, so that in all 
ises a certain space should be left, according 
i) the size of the tree. In dry weather good 
upplies of water should be given, as these 
tees are not able to obtain, nearly such large 
uantities at the roots in wet weather as those 
rowing on worked ground. This applies 
specially to Conifers and other close-growing 
Evergreens; and if a mulching of decayed 
aanure can be given at this season it will 
irove most beneficial, but care should be 
aken not to place this close round the stems. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Cymbidiums.—The genus possesses many 
pecies that may be cultivated in a temperature 
if about 55 degrees, normal, throughout the 
rear. There are many who grow the plants 
iltogether with the Odontoglossums. Such 
species- as C. lowianum, C. tracyanum, C. 
'iganteum, C. grandiflorum, and tbe C. longi- 
'olium section will all thrive well in a tempera¬ 
ture of about 50 degrees during winter. Prac¬ 
tically the whole of the Cymbidiums are 
jpring-flowering plants, and when their scapes 
(have become expanded they will last for 
months in perfection. Cymbidium eburneurfi, 
0. mastersii and the hybrids that have been 
ierived from the inter-crossing of the species 
are not so robust in constitution as the first- 
mentioned section. I would not advise their 
being grown in a temperature below 55 degrees 
in winter. Growth commences immediately 
the flowering season is past. 
When the growth has advanced a few inches 
new roots malte their appearance. This will 
be found to be the best season to attend to any 
repotting requirements that may be necessary. 
Cymbidiums resent disturbing, perhaps, more 
than any other species of Orchids. It is there¬ 
fore well to consider the exact condition of the 
compost before repotting is attempted. If the 
compost is in good condition, and there be 
ample root room in the pot, I would not advise 
that such should be interfered with. If the 
moss is dead, remove it and all other decayed 
matter and replace the same with new com¬ 
post Jf the compost hat got into an advanced 
state of decomposition, then there can be no 
alternative but to resort to repotting. In 
turning the plants out of the pots, one needs 
to be careful, for the large fleshy roots become 
so firmly attached to the inside of the pots in 
such a way that they can only be detached 
with considerable care. If the compost, is 
wetted first,, and a thinly-pared stick or the 
blade of a knife is used, they may be removed 
without serious injury. The pots used should 
be clean and filled to one-third their 
depths with clean broken crocks, the pot¬ 
ting compost consisting of equal portions 
of fibrous peat and loam, with a little 
sphagnum moss and sufficient rough sand and 
finely-broken crocks to render the whole tho¬ 
roughly porous. If situated in the immediate 
neighbourhood of London and other large 
towns, or in smoky manufacturing districts, 
considerably less loam than peat should be 
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used. As loam has a tendency, to hold mois¬ 
ture, it is not altogether an advisable in¬ 
gredient in the potting compost during periods 
of foggy or dull weather in winter, when the 
obscurity of light prevents rapid evaporation, 
and is thus liable to cause injury to the roots 
of the plants. 
In repotting, first cut away all dead and 
decaying matter about the roots of the plants. 
When the plant isqilaced in position, the base 
of the pseudo-bulbs should be just below the 
rim of the pot. Fill the soil in carefully 
among the roots of the plants, making it firm, 
but not hard ; cover tbe surface with a layer 
of living sphagnum. When potting is com¬ 
plete, water the plants 110111 ram water, tho¬ 
roughly wetting the compost through. I find 
it advisable to use a moderately coarse rose 
on the watering can. The plant is now ready 
to be placed in position on the stage. Care 
must be observed to protect tbe plants from too 
much light until the new roots get hold of the 
compost. Spray the plants overhead in hot, 
and favourable weather, and keep the atmos¬ 
phere m a humid state. When growth is com¬ 
pleted, only sufficient water is required to 
keep tbe pseudo-bulbs in a plump state. Spray 
the foliage when insect pests appear. Red 
spider will be found tbe most troublesome 
when tbe atmosphere is dry. 
H. J. Chatman. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Climbing plants. — Regulate the- young 
growths as they advance, bearing in mind 
that to ensure free-flowering tbe young wood 
must be well ripened. All weakly shoots 
should be cut clean out, retaining only the 
stronger and best-placed ones, which will 
admit full light and air about them. Lead¬ 
ing shoots, or those required for extension, 
must be tied neatly into position before they 
become entangled, and close watch must be 
kept for insects. Copious watering at the 
root will be necessary whilst in active growth 
and an occasional application of liquid 
manure, or Clay’s manure, should also be 
afforded. 
Tropaeolum lobbianum. —This species is a 
greenhouse twining perennial, and has but few 
rivals as a bright winter-flowering plant for 
training up pillars and rafters in the green¬ 
house or conservatory. Strong cuttings of the 
half-ripened shoots may be inserted at this 
time in pots of light sandy soil, and if grown 
on freely near the roof glass of a cold pit oi 
greenhouse, they will make nice strong plants 
by November, when flowering will commence. 
Avoid potting in too rich soil, or the energy of 
the plant will go to leafage instead of blos¬ 
soms ; it is better to defer feeding the roots 
until late autumn. A neat stake should be 
placed against the main stem early in tbe 
plant’s growth, and remove all side-shoots for 
a time. Take every care of the leading shoot. 
Humea elegans. — For general effectiveness, 
either in the greenhouse or the flower garden, 
this is unique. Now is a good time to sow 
seed for producing plants for a display twelve 
months hence. Sow in pans of light sandy 
soil, and cover with a sheet of glass. P-lace 
on a shelf in the greenhouse until germination 
takes place, afterwards keeping them growing 
on quietly in cold frames. 'When the first 
rough leaves appear, pot off singly into small 
60’s, and keep shaded from bright sunshine. 
The’compost for this and subsequent pottings 
should consist of equal parts loam, leaf-soil, 
and well-decayed manure, with sand added. 
On the approach of severe weather in autumn 
remove the plants to a light position in the 
greenhouse. K- 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
In many gardens, and particularly large 
ones, summer-flowering annuals are largely 
arewn, both for producing, a good display of 
bloom and also for cutting purposes; and 
these are generally given separate borders or 
kept out of the herbaceous beds. Where one 
lias not. sufficient space to treat them in this 
way, they can be used with good results in 
company with the perennials. For planting 
among spring-flowering subjects, of which the 
foliage is now beginning to die off. they are 
extremely useful,’ and no quantity of bare 
space then results. The numerous varieties 
suitable for the purpose axe too well known, 
to need description, and while some. are 
adapted for making hold groups, others are 
suitable for clothing the edge of the border. 
These should by now be planted in their 
