t>46 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
July 8, 1905. 
host of Roses, usually termed garden, sum¬ 
mer-flowering, or decorative Roses, flower 
only once a year, whereas the perpetual Roses 
bloom a second time in the autumn. In 
order to make myself clearer it will be neces¬ 
sary to condescend from general instructions 
to more special particulars by way of example. 
The First Pruning after Planting. 
There is nothing, perhaps, on which therei 
are so many different opinions as to whether 
Roses should be pruned or not the first year 
after planting. Many are of the belief that 
the shoots should be left at their full length 
until the plants get established for one year. 
That idea is also applied to the pruning of 
newly-planted fruit trees, but it is a mistake. 
Those Roses which are planted in the autumn 
should be left unpruned until their proper 
season in spring, according to the kind. If 
the same varieties are planted in spring they 
should be pruned at the time of planting. 
While this applies to bush Roses, it also 
applies to standards and to climbers. After 
the latter are established they require very 
different pruning from that given to bush 
Roses, but when first planted they should be 
severely pruned. No matter how long the 
stems are, they should be cut down within 
two feet of the ground. Those who have made 
plantations of Raspberries will also remem¬ 
ber that a similar method of procedure is 
adopted in order to secure vigorous growth. 
Climbers, if left unpruned the first year, 
would waste their energies upon the long 
stems while trying to establish the root sys¬ 
tem, with the result that very little growth 
is made the first year. If the long stems are 
cut down as directed they will send up several 
strone shoots the first season. This applies 
to young plants, but it would also apply to 
older specimens which are being transplanted. 
It is not often that large specimens are trans¬ 
planted, although it becomes necessary to do 
so in some instances. In any case, their 
long stems should be cut down. 
Summer Pruning. 
Few Roses are pruned in summer in the 
proper sense of the term, though it might be 
made to apply to several of the sections. For 
instance, when Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid 
Teas, and Tea Roses have bloomed the flowers 
may be exit with a certain length of stem, 
■and those that flower a second time in the 
autumn will commence immediately to push 
up fresh growth after this treatment, and 
flower in September or October. After thei 
blooms are past their best, all those varieties 
which bloom a second time in autumn may 
be systematically dealt with, and have their 
fading blooms or seed-pods removed a't once, 
with a short piece of stem. Watering should 
be given at frequent intervals to encourasre 
this second growth. The ground may with 
advantage be mulched so as to economise the 
water applied. This is all the more necessary 
if the season should be dry in July and 
August. 
Sixmmer pruning is more essential in tne 
case of climbing Roses, and even that might 
be termed thinning rather than pruning. 
Most of the climbers are summer-flowering 
Roses, blooming only once a year, and the 
necessary thinning or pruning should be given 
immediately after the flowers fade or have 
dropped. This would apply to climbing Roses, 
whether grown on walls, pillars, trellises, 
or pergolas. It all depends upon the state 
of the plants for the time being as to the 
amount of thinning which they will require. 
In the case of young plants little or no thin¬ 
ning at all may be necessary. On the other 
hand, should the bushes be large and getting 
crowded, it may be necessary to give them a 
severe thinning, dependent upon how much 
space there is at command to let in the young 
shoots. The strong shoots that are thrown 
up this summer will be the principal flower¬ 
ing shoots of next summer. Bearing that in 
mind, the operator should begin by cutting 
out the oldest of the stems which are begin¬ 
ning to be less vigorous and less productive 
of blossom. These shoots or stems should be 
cut to within one foot of the ground, or, if 
they spring from the main stem, they may be 
cut to within one or two buds of the base, from, 
whence young shoots may be obtained next 
year to again take the place of older ones 
which may be removed. 
As to how many of the old shoots must be 
removed, it must depend upon the operator’s 
discretion as to the space at command and the 
crowding that may be allowed. The very object 
of this summer pruning is to remove all the 
old and useless shoots and stems, so that the 
younger ones left will have more room, light, 
and air to encourage their proper development, 
and the ripening of the wood between this 
and next autumn. These instructions apply 
to those Roses described as climbing, rambler, 
Hybrid Teas, Noisettes, and those generally 
of vigorous growth, the young stems of which 
must be retained if a good display of Roses 
is expected next year. 
Mulching and watering should be attended 
to in these cases in order to ensure the 
best results. This pruning or thinning 
may take place in June or July accord¬ 
ing to the time, the Roses in question 
have done blooming. Tie in or nail the 
stems left, both to maintain tidiness and to 
prevent them being broken down. To¬ 
wards the end of the season of growth the 
long stems may have their tips removed in 
order to check growth, encourage the ripen¬ 
ing of the wood, and the plumping up of the 
buds that will produce the blossom next year. 
(To be concluded.) 
-«- 
PLIIAS .... 
GROWN AS BUSHES. 
How seldom do we see this method of grow¬ 
ing Plums practised in gardens, and yet it is 
the most satisfactory of all for private 
gardens, the bushes being easily protected 
from spring frost. The fruit are never blown 
down, and netting against the ravages of 
birds is an easy accomplishment compared 
to standards!. Insect pests can also be kept 
better in check, and at le'ast three bushes 
can be grown in the place of one standard, 
and as these three might be different varieties, 
a better succession of fruit is obtained. In 
addition to these named advantages, the 
bushes are easier pruned and attended to, 
so that a crop of fruit may be relied upon 
each year. 
Soil.— It has been Said that where a Cab¬ 
bage will grow a Plum tree will succeed. In 
the case of bushes the native soil is of minor 
importance, as the bushes can be lifted and 
good soil added. It is not advisable to mix 
farmyard manure with the soil before plant¬ 
ing, except the soil is veiy poor, but a dress¬ 
ing of basic slag and bone meal is very bene¬ 
ficial. November is the best time to plant. 
If the soil is naturally heavy a layer of lime 
rubble in the bottom of each hole will act as 
drainage and a future stimulant to the 
bushes ; these under ordinary circumstances 
may be 8ft. apart. 
Stocks and Varieties —The common Plum 
and the Myrobalan stocks are the best to 
use. The latter stock when grown from cut¬ 
tings has a dwarfing tendency, which is suit¬ 
able for bushes, as Plums are very variable 
in constitution, some succeeding well in one 
district and some in another. Before plant¬ 
ing a good idea is to have a conference with 
two or three neighbour gardeners and the local 
nurseryman, coupling this with personal ex¬ 
perience and good judgment, a good selection 
of suitable varieties may be made. 
Pruning. —This is most important, espe¬ 
cially during the first three years. All shoots 
not wanted for the extension of the tree 
should be pinched to three or four leaves as 
soon as the lower leaves are well developed ; 
the resulting laterals may be again pinched 
to one leaf, and so on, to the end of Auopst, 
when the whole shoot may be cut back to one 
or two leaves. The extension shoots in 
young, vigorous bushes may be shortened at 
the same time to from 9in. to 12m., according 
to strength. Should growth set in and the 
terminal end start into growth the shoot can 
be- cut back to another leaf later on. The 
bushes must not be allowed to grow more than 
7ft. in height, and certainly not more than 
6ft. in diameter. This can be easily accom¬ 
plished by judicious pruning and periodical 
lifting and replanting. One thing to keep in 
view is that light and air must of necessity 
penetrate the centre of the bush so that ail 
the branches, both inside and out, may bp 
clothed with fruiting spurs like cordons. If 
the bush is too much crowded so that air and 
light are excluded from the centre, the bush 
not only fails to ripen its fruit, but wII 
in time become bare of spurs, so that this is 
the keynote of success after getting the young 
bushes into early fruitfulness. 
Insect Pests —Aphis Pruni (Bhue fly) is 
the worst enemy, but, happily, they are easily 
eradicated. The following solutions are not 
only preventive but qurative :—lib. quassia 
chips to three gallons of water, let stand for 
twenty-four hours, strained, and the bushes 
sprayed, taking care when spraying that the 
underside of the leaves is not neglected; or 
lib. of quassia chips may be boiled for a 
quarter of an hour in four gallons of water, 
straining and adding, while hot, lib. soft 
soap, dissolving thoroughly, and spraying 
with the solution at 100 deg. This is a safe 
and effectual ciare. 
Cropping. —Should the bushes show a ten¬ 
dency any season to produce too heavy a 
crop, they should be thinned, and given a 
dressing of basic slag, say about lib. to foui 
square yards. -This, with a mulch of farm¬ 
yard manure, or lib. of guano sprinklep 
round each tree at intervals during summer 
with frequent hoeing and copious supplies ol 
water in prolonged drought. Bushes attended 
in this way have proved a success'. Y. Z. 
HobMcultttre in Holland. —The district o 
Westland in South Holland is noted" for it: 
market gardens. It is in area about 5.2CH 
acres, which is cultivated by no fewer thai 
1,400 small holders. The value of the land i 
high, and now runs from £150 to £200 pe 
acre. Of late years great attention has bee) 
paid to cultivation under glass, the crop 
raised consisting of Cauliflowers, Carrots, Let 
tuees, Endive, Strawberries, and Grapes. 
■*■•*■* 
Keep Poultry in the Orchard. —Most c 
the grubs which destroy Apple trees burro- 
in the ground later. The females of the mot 
are also in most cases wingless, and have t 
climb the trees. Scores of active poultry i 
the orchard not only improve the soil, bi 
pick up and eat the enemies of the Apple tree 
and thrive upon them. 
