562 
in the practical experience of gardening, 
and their answers in many cases have given 
great satisfaction to the examiners. Owing 
to the higher average excellence shown by 
the papers this year, it was deemed advisable 
to raise the standard and this was done by 
making a total of 150 marks Decessary for 
obtaining a fust-class certificate; 120 marks 
for a second-class, and 90 for a third-class. 
There were, however, fifteen failures under 
this arrangement, so that would-be teachers 
will require to make themselves versed in 
the art of gardening. It was evident also 
that a number of the candidates were 
unfamiliar with the terms used in gardening, 
such as pyramids, bushes, cordons, and espa¬ 
liers, as applied to fruit trees ; herbaceous as 
applied to flowering plants was also misunder¬ 
stood, and only a minority of the candidates 
knew that Roses were woody plants. It 
seems also singular that the terms annual, 
biennial, and perennial were so much con¬ 
fused. Unfortunately gardening books them¬ 
selves are very frequently deficient of fully 
indicating these differences, but if the candi¬ 
dates had had any practical experience Avith 
the plants themselves it would surely be 
impossible to confuse such ordinary terms. 
Some amusing answers were also given, and 
had evidently been supplied by the imagina¬ 
tion of the writer. The candidates were 
well distributed over the various counties of 
England. 
Lords and Ladies and Small Flies. 
At a recent meeting of the Linnaean 
Society the Rev. John Gerard, S.J., F.L.S., 
exhibited a series of lantern slides of Arum 
maculatum, popularly known as Lords and 
Ladies. His object was to disprove the 
statement of Hermann Mueller that the 
fertilisation of this plant was effected by 
small flies which were imprisoned by the 
abortive hair-like organs above the stamens. 
The rev, gentleman’s opinion was that these 
visitants became stupefied by the nectar 
afforded by the ovaries and were digestjd 
by the plant. 
The Black Currant Mite. 
At a meeting of the R.H.S. Scientific Com¬ 
mittee on June 20th, Mr. C. E. Shea related 
the fact that he had grown the Black Currant 
Boskoop Giant for the last four years and 
had not yet found a sign of mite upon it, 
although other varieties in close proximity 
had suffered severely from the attacks of the 
mite. He explained that the buds were 
protected by relatively hard and im¬ 
penetrable scale leaves, which probably the 
mite could not pierce. We also recorded 
the immunity of this variety in 1903 and 
since in reply to correspondents. We 
should be inclined to think that the number 
of oil glands upon the bud scales might have 
as much to do with the keeping away of the 
mite as the hardness of them. Another 
point to be determined is whether in some 
varieties the buds are relatively smaller and 
the scales more closely pressed to one 
another at the seasons when the mite is 
migrating from the old buds to the new— 
that is, changing their old abode for fresh 
pastures. 
The Flower Garden. 
Carnations —There are few more beautiful 
occupants of the flower garden at this season 
than the Carnation. Already the flowers of 
innumerable charming varieties are showing 
colour, and soon will make a fine display. 
Staking should be attended to promptly, as, 
unfortunately, few of the finest varieties have 
stems strong enough to support the flowers 
erect. Carnations as a rule withstand pro¬ 
tracted drought fairly well, but if fine flowers 
are desired it is inadvisable to allow this to 
continue. Repeated stirring of the surface 
soil with the hoe is beneficial, and helps to 
keep that surrounding the plants in good con¬ 
dition for layering later on. Wind and wet 
are rather detrimental to the development of 
really fine flowers, and if such are required, 
either for home use or for exhibition, it is 
advisable to afford some protection. This may 
be effected in various ways, by fixing fine 
gauze hoods over particular flowers, or if the 
plants he in square o<r oblong beds, as is often 
the case, the lights from cold frames not in 
use may be fixed on stakes over the beds. 
Hollyhocks. —These stately late summer 
and autumn flowers are making good headway, 
and well repay liberal treatment. On no 
account should they he allowed to become dry, 
for they love a deep and fairly moist root run. 
Copious waterings in dry weather are neces¬ 
sary, and the application of weak liquid 
manure once or twice a week tends to the de¬ 
velopment of strong and handsome flower 
spikes. As soon as the latter are long enough, 
neat stakes should be applied, as, if the spikes 
he allowed to sway too much the plants 
become loosened at the roots and thereby 
receive a check. The staking of Hollyhocks 
should he done with taste, for if the stakes 
are too conspicuous the effect is wholly spoilt. 
Tuberous Begonias planted early in June 
are now beginning to make a nice show. 
These are moisture-loving subjects, and soon 
show signs of falling off if allowed to become 
dry, and few summer bedding plants are more 
successful in wet seasons. After warm, bright 
clays it will be found beneficial to lightly spray 
these plants by means of a syringe or fine rose 
water-pot. 
All early-flowering annuals should he re¬ 
moved as they show signs of going over, 
and the blanks filled up with half-hardy 
annuals, as advised last week, or autumn¬ 
flowering Chrysanthemums may yet he planted 
and well watered in. B. W. J. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Savoys. —These are unquestionably one of 
our most useful green winter vegetables, but 
frequently sown and planted too early, and 
during severe weather large developed heads 
always suffer most. These should be planted 
in quantities during the present month on good 
ground, which should be manured and dug. 
Plant very firmly, well water in, and keep the 
surface soil constantly stirred with the draw 
hoe. 
Late Broccoli. — Now is a capital time to 
make the final planting of this. Choose an 
open site, the ground should not he dug, as 
the firmer it is the more sturdy and solid will 
be the growth, which will much assist the 
plants to go through a severe winter un¬ 
harmed. Holes should be made with an iron 
bar, and where the ground is very heavy it 
will be well to fill in with a little fine soil, 
and 1 , if addicted to clubbing, use finely sifted 
cinder ashes liberally. Always trim back the 
tap root with a sharp knife. Leamington, 
Sutton’s Late Queen, and Veitch’s Model are 
among the best I know for giving a continu¬ 
ous late supply. 
Turnips. — Take advantage of damp, 
showery weather, and make frequent small 
sowings. These, so far, look remarkably well 
this year ; the splendid rains have done much 
to assist free growth so essential for this vege¬ 
table. 
Globe Artichokes. — These are now throw¬ 
ing up their heads freely, and to ensure a con¬ 
stant supply till late autumn, they should be 
cut immediately they are fully developed, and 
if not ready for immediate use, these will keep 
fresh and good for ten days or a fortnight by 
placing the ends in about 2 inches of water, 
and changing it every other day. Stand in a 
cool place. The plants will derive much 
benefit by giving copious supplies of liquid 
manure in dry weather, and some patent vege¬ 
table manure when the weather is showery. 
Radishes. —These should be sown at inter¬ 
vals of every ten days on finely broken ground 
on a north border if possible, when the qualify 
will be much better than if grown in the sun. 
Nothing is better than French Breakfast at 
this season. E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Fruit Garden. 
Strawberries. —As soon as the fruits are 
cleared remove the nets to Currants, Rasp¬ 
berries, etc., and decide whether it will repay 
the cost of labour to retain old plantations 
which ought not to stand over the fourth year 
as a rule, and any rows to be dispensed with 
should be grabbed up forthwith so that the 
ground can be prepared and a winter crop of 
some sort take its place. Supply those layered 
in pots or turves with water two or three 
times a day in bright weather, and select a 
new piece of ground in good time if it is in¬ 
tended to make a new bed, which is necessary 
each year when part of the crop is destroyed. 
Quarters recently cleared of early Peas or 
Potatos would be suitable, and in most in¬ 
stances rich enough, although it is wise to 
get it in good heart considering the plants 
have to remain three or four years, and should 
manuring be necessary bastard trench the 
piece, putting a layer of manure at the bottom 
of the second spit and another layer above, 
and allow the ground to settle before planting, 
details of which will be forthcoming in an 
early issue. 
American Blight is again in evidence on 
many Apple trees, and require to be dealt 
with early in the season to he of any benefit, 
therefore persevere with either a good lather 
of gishurst compound or methylated spirits, 
working it well in the affected crevices with a 
painter’s brash, repeating the dose within a 
week if the pest is not eradicated the first 
