810 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 14, 1905. 
it all equally, at least 2 ft. deep. The number 
and size of the walks will depend upon the size 
of the garden and your convenience. With re¬ 
gard to the old-fashioned flowers, we may say 
that a whole host of them can be planted at the 
present time. There are also hardy bulbs in 
great variety, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffo¬ 
dils, Snowdrops, Squills, etc. Possibly you desire 
to plant perennials, but at the same time you 
should not overlook Wallflowers, Primroses, and 
Polyanthuses, the latter two, of course, being 
perennials. Seeing that the number of old- 
fashioned flowers is so great, it is impossible in a 
short article to run through the whole series of 
them. It would have helped us greatly if you 
had any idea of the class of flowers which you 
like. At the same time, we should advise you to 
get some plants that will flower at different times 
during the season, so as to keep up a succession 
of bloom. Besides the plants we have mentioned 
for spring flowering, you should also get some of 
the Doronicums that flower early. About May 
and June Pyrethrums make a fine display in the 
garden. Other subjects to flower about the same 
time would be Delphiniums or perennial Lark¬ 
spurs, herbaceous Paeonies, perennial Lupins, the 
perennial Bluebottle, various Irises, including the 
ordinary German Flag and allied kinds. Later in 
the season you should have some of the border 
Chrysanthemums or Oxeye Daisies, of which 
there are several very fine ones. Several of the 
Lilies are worthy of inclusion even in small 
gardens, including the White Lily (Liliurn can- 
didum), the Orange Lily (L. croceum), and the 
Tiger Lily (L. tigrinum). Some of the modern 
varieties of late-flowering Phloxes should be 
added to the list, together .with Saxifrages, 
Veronicas, and later on you will require a few 
of the best of the Michaelmas Daisies and Golden 
Rod, as well as perennial Sunflowers, to keep up 
a display in the autumn. If you could give us 
any hint as to your taste amongst flowers, we 
could name various things more precisely, giving 
you varieties. 
Wall for Fruit Trees. 
Kindly let me know what sort of wall you 
would consider best—whether lime, brick, or lime 
lined with brick—round a garden facing due south 
on a slope, and intended to grow Peaches, Nec¬ 
tarines, Pears and Apples. By lime is meant 
naturally a stone wall built with lime, and 
probably of limestone. The soil is heavy but 
good. (Violet.) 
We are not aware that stone or brick walls 
have any advantage the one over the other for 
fruit growing. In our experience garden walls 
are either built of bricks or stone, according to 
which is most easily procurable in the district. 
For instance, in the neighbourhood of London the 
walls are all built of bricks, because there are no 
stones obtainable except from a distance. In 
districts where stone is plentiful, garden walls 
are built of this. In some instances we have 
known brick walls to be built so that they are 
hollow inside. This is said to make the wall 
warmer for the trees in winter. Unless stone 
walls were very thick it would be very incon¬ 
venient to have them built in-this way. Whether 
you build the walls of stones or bricks, it would 
be advantageous to have the face covered with 
a coating of lime, or rather mortar, which would 
thus seal up all the seams and prevent insect 
pests from finding shelter in the wall. A brick 
wall, after many years’ nailing of the trees, gets 
full of small holes, which afford shelter to a 
great number of insect pests, and we have seen 
such walls covered over with a layer of cement, 
this latter being more durable and less likely to 
be displaced by frost than a layer of mortar. 
If you resolve to have the wall covered with a 
layer of something,-we should advise you to use 
cement,- and have wires strained along the face 
of the wall to which the fruit trees can be. tied. 
This would save the wall, and be advantageous 
to the fruit by offering no harbour for insect- 
pests. 5Tou should see that the soil is well 
drained before trees are planted in it if neces¬ 
sary. If it is slightly heavy, it can, of course, be 
lightened by the use of sandy material and 
semirings of ditches and the parings of road¬ 
sides. 
White Grubs on Primula japonica, 
I enclose a boxful of white grubs with a de¬ 
caying root of Primula japonica. Last year I 
made a small rock garden, and the soil I used 
was the mud and grass cleanings from a pond. 
It had been in a large heap rotting for two years, 
and seemed in very good condition. I mixed 
plenty of gravel with it, and some lighter soil, to 
help to lighten the whole. The plants I bought 
and planted last winter. They all did very well, 
but this summer I noticed the leaves of Primula 
japonica rosea turning withered and yellow, so 
I have just lifted the plants, and find all the 
roots eaten by the enclu-sed grubs, and rotting 
away. Would you kindly tell me through The 
Gardening W’orld what they are, and if they 
are likely to attack any of the other plants? I 
have picked a lot of them out of the soil that was 
round the Primulas. I noticed some grubs that 
looked very much the same as these in our farm¬ 
yard manure heap- dining the spring. What could 
I use to kill them, both in the manure and the 
soil? Would lime be of any use? (C. W. P.) 
The grubs are those of the early stages of one 
or other of three weevils, and most probably they 
are those of the Black Vine Weevil (Otiorhyn- 
chus sulcatus), but cannot determine 1 until they 
reach the perfect state, as they are so similar. 
It is just possible they may attack the roots of 
other plants if they are present, as we know that 
they have already been guilty of destroying 
various plants in pots, including Cyclamen, 
Chinese Primulas, and Echeverias. The above 
species usually attacks plants indoors, but as 
frequently, perhaps, the injury out of doors is done 
by the Red-legged Garden Weevil (0. tenebri- 
eo'sus), which has been guilty of doing injury to 
most of the small fruits and to vegetables. These 
creatures in the perfect state commit their de¬ 
predations by night, and if you see the leaves 
of any plants on the rockery being eaten, it would 
be well to lay white sheets of cl-o-th or paper be¬ 
neath them by day, and come round at night to 
look -at the plants by -means of a lantern. If 
the light is turned on the plants, and the latter 
shaken, the weevils will drop on the cloth, when 
you -can catch them and have them destroyed. 
You could also lay traps for them on the rockery 
in the form of pieces of tile or board laid on t-lie 
surface, and examined in the morning to see if 
any -of the weevils are hiding beneath them. It 
would be impossible to destroy the grubs at the 
roots of plants without destroying the plant* 
themselves, but any specimens that . look bad. 
should be examined at- the root, and all grubs 
destroyed. We have little doubt they were im¬ 
ported with the farmyard manure, and not with 
the -soil, unless that was mixed with farmyard 
manure or other vegetable matter. You could 
apply lime to the manure, but we think that gas 
lime would be more effective, mixing it with the 
manure, and allowing the latter to lie in the open 
air for at least -six or eight- weeks before using 
it- for any purpose, because the gas lime is inju¬ 
rious to plants when fresh. A good plan would 
be to pursue the trapping of the perfect speci¬ 
mens on the rockery, and also carefully examine 
any manure or soil that is about to be' placed on 
the rockery. 
Daisies on a Lawn. 
I have a lot of Daisy roots on my lawn this 
year. Can I put any chemical on them without- 
destroying the grass? I shall be very glad if 
you know of anything. Someone told me lie 
thought sulphate of iron would answer the pur¬ 
pose. (Y. W. Sears.) 
Iron in some form or other is sometimes used 
for killing moss in grass, but. it has to be used 
with very great discretion and care, as a heavy 
dose of it destroys the grass. Your best- plan 
would be to ask your sun-driesman for some lawn 
sand, and have this sprinkled over the lawn- s-o 
that it can be seen upon the broad leaves of the 
Daisies. Moisture will very soon cause this to 
dissolve, whether the moisture of dew or rain, 
and the broad leaves of the Daisies holding the 
lawn, san-cl will be destroyed. Sulphate of am¬ 
monia -or nitrate -of soda in the form of a salt are 
the essential ingredients of this lawn sand, but 
your sundriesman would have it in the proper 
form. 
“Quick Fruit Culture.” 
Could you, or any of your readers, inform me 
through The Gardening World where I could 
get a book entitled “Quick Fruit Culture”? I 
think it was written by a gardener named Simp¬ 
son, and published in Sheffield. What is the 
price of it? (Andromeda.) 
You are right about the author of the book, 
but at present we do not know who is the pub¬ 
lisher. You should apply to Mr. John Simpson, 
Park House, Wortley, Sheffield, who is the author 
o-f -the book, and would no doubt be pleased to let 
you know where it could be obtained, and the 
price. 
Names of Plants. 
(A. J. P.) 1, Chrysanthemum uliginosum; 2, 
Chrysanthemum latifolium; 3, Aster Amellus; 
4, Impatiens Roylei ; 5, Crocus speciosus ; 6 , Col- 
cliicum autum-nale fiore pleno.—(T. W.) 1, Fuchsia 
macrostemma variegata (often named F. gracilis 
variega.ta) ; 2, Amarantus caudatus, or Love Lies 
Bleeding; 3, Arnmobium alat-um ; 4, Polygonum 
cymosum.—(E. S.) 1. Crataegus coccinea; 2, Cra¬ 
taegus orientalis; 3, Pyrus Aria; 4, Spiraea 
hullata; 5, Lobelia fulgens.—(C. W.) 1, Azalea 
nudiflora var. ; 2, Crataegus Crus-galli ; 3, Yitis 
ineonstans (usually named Ampelopsis Veitelii in 
-gardens). 
Contents of this Number. 
Adiantum farleyense ... 
Amateur’s letter to amateurs . 
Ants and fruit ... 
Beans, Runner ... 
Butterwort, the Mexican 
Chrysanthemums, early, at the Crystal Palace 
Dahlias 
Earwigs, how to catch ... 
Enquire within ... 
Flower garden, plot of ground for ... 
Flower garden, the 
Fruit garden 
Garden, the small . 
Gardens, our northern ... 
Herbaceous border, hardy 
Holly hedge 
Interviews, occasional ... 
Kitchen garden, the ... 
Leadwort,-a rich blue ... 
Lily, a beautiful Chinese 
Nemesia, a fine strain of 
Onion maggot . 
Orchids for amateurs. 
Plants for all tastes, hardy and tender ... 
Plants, new garden . 
Poultry and pets 
Rhododendron racemosum. . 
Rockery in a villa garden 
Roses and shrubs for sandy soil . 
Society doings ... 
Solomon’s Seal. 
Stevens, Mr. Henry S. ... 
-St-onecrop, a remarkable 
Stove and greenhouse, the . 
Sunflower, a giant ... 
Trees and shrubs, hardy 
Vegetables all the year round. 
Violet, the Bird’s-foot. 
Weeds, lawn sand and ... 
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ILLUSTRATIONS. 
Adiantum farleyense. 
Earwigs, to catch ... ••• 
Garden at North Berwick, a villa rock 
Garden:, four views in a small... 
H-el-ianthus annuus . 
Lilitim leucantlium (see Supplement)... 
Ornithogalum arcuatum 
Pinguicula ca-udata 
I’olygonaturn multiflorum 
Rhododendron racemosum . 
Scrapers, -garden . 
Stevens, Mr. Henry S. ... 
Viola pedata 
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