October 28, 1905. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
829 
nothing better as a foundation for the pots 
to rest on. These are safe where they are 
while the weather remains open, as now, but 
at the approach of much frost plunge the pot 
a t rifle above the rims in coal ashes in a warm 
corner, or where glass lights can be placed 
over them during inclement weather. 
Early Pot Vines. —Where ripe Grapes are 
expected in March or April an early start 
must be made, so that no hurrying of the crop 
is needed in its early stages, or unsatisfac¬ 
tory results will be sure to follow. Cut close 
in any lateral growth, and shorten the leader, 
if necessary. ‘Smear over all cuts with 
styptic or painter’s knotting, wash the canes 
with warm soapy water, scrub the pots, and 
see that the drainage hole is clean, when all 
will be ready for a start. Before placing m 
the pits or houses, thoroughly wash glass, 
woodwork, etc., and limewasli the walls pre¬ 
vious to putting in the material that is to 
supply the bottom heat, which will be iden¬ 
tical to that advocated for pot Figs last week. 
Stand the Vine pots on a few tiers of bricks, 
so that when the rod is in place it is within 
15 in. of the glass roof. Train the canes 
horizontally until the buds are prominent at 
the base, but rilace in position before the 
orowths get too advanced, or some may get 
broken. "No fire beat will be necessary the 
first few weeks unless the nights turn cold ; 
the fermenting material should prevent the 
thermometer falling much below 50 degrees. 
Syringe the canes twice on bright days, and 
afford a little air when the temperature 
reaches 70 degrees. Do not keep the soil m 
the pots too wet; it is when the Vines are 
in active growth that plenty of root waterings 
become necessary. Those for later work 
should be got in order and placed under cover 
out of the reach of heavy rains or much frost, 
as in the case of Strawberry pots. 
James Mayne. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
A't. this time of year the number of shrubs 
in flower is comparatively small, but there are 
some which deserve to be planted in every 
garden on account of their beauty at this 
season, as they do much to brighten the 
shrubberies and make them interesting when 
the majority of highly-coloured leaves have 
fallen. 
Arbutus TJnedo _This is commonly known 
as the Strawberry Tree on account of the 
■ large scarlet fruits which it carries, and in 
some parts of the British Isles it is. to be 
found growing wild, but at the present time 
the flowers are making a beautiful display. 
These are white, similar in shape to a Lily- 
of-the-Valley, and, being produced with great 
freedom in drooping panicles, are very con¬ 
spicuous. The leaves are an intense green 
colour, and remain on during the winter. In 
the north it would he advisable,to give this 
shrub a sheltered position, though it is only 
liable to become injured in the very coldest 
weather even there. It requires but little 
pruning, and forms a large bush from eight 
I to twelve feet in height and' nearly as much, 
through. Although not fastidious as to soil, 
and it succeeds well on a cold clay, a light 
| loam would prove the best. 
Caryopteris Mastacanthus is another beau¬ 
tiful shrub, and, considering how well it is 
adapted for small gardens, one would expect 
to see it more generally grown. This also 
prefers a light soil, and forms a neat bush 
about two to four feet in height and width, 
and from the beginning to the end of October 
is freely clothed with small blue flowers. 
Although generally considered quite hardy, it 
is advisable in the coldest localities to give 
a little protection, such as dry bracken or 
straw, so as to prevent the young wood being 
injured. 
Desmodium p°nduliflorum always deserves 
to be included, if only for its distinct appear¬ 
ance from other shrubs. It is quite hardy, 
but the stems die down to the ground 
annually when the winter sets in. The 
growths are slender, and rise to a height of 
5 ft. to 7 ft., so that a light support is neces- 
OUR WEEKLY PRIZE COM¬ 
PETITIONS. 
General Conditions. — Competitors must 
write on one side of the paper only. Regular paid 
contributors to The Gardening World, or other 
gardening journals, are debarred from entering, 
but occasional contributors may compete. The 
name and address of the competitor must appear 
on each article sent for competition. The Editor’s 
decision is final, and he reserves the light to re¬ 
produce, in any way, any article or photograph 
sent for competition. The conditions applying to 
each competition should be carefully read. 
PRIZES. 
A Prize of Ten Shillings will be given for 
the best paragraph or short article on any 
gaidening subject, such as hints (f practical 
interest to gardeners, notes on the propagation or 
cultivation of flowers, fruits or vegetables, 
eradication of pests, etc. The paragraph or 
article must not exceed a column, but value 
rather than length will he considered in making 
the award. Mark envelopes “ Competition,” and 
post not later than the Monday following date of 
issue. Entries received later than Tuesday 
first post will he left over until the following 
week. 
Two Prizes of Two Shillings and Six¬ 
pence each will be given for the best supple¬ 
mentary replies to questions asked in “ The G.W. 
Enquire Within ” column. These replies should 
be brief. 
A Prize of Five Shillings will he given for 
the best novel device for saving labour, protecting 
plants, or a garden utensil, which reaches us 
during any week. A rough sketch must accom¬ 
pany the brief description. 
RESULTS OF LAST WEEK S COM¬ 
PETITIONS. 
The prize in the Readers’ Competition was 
awarded to “ Dunn,” for his article on “ Gold 
and Silver Ferns,” p. 820. 
A prize for a supplementary replv was awarded 
to “ Hartley” for his article on “ Holly Hedge ” ; 
and another to “ G. Waller,” for an article on 
“How to Store Dablais,” p. 820. ^ j; 
A prize was also awarded to “ D. I . Erlam 
for a device, “ How to make a Japanese Flower 
Ball,” p. 821. 
saiy. The flowers, which are produced in 
great numbers, are pea-shaped and purple in 
colour, and throughout the autumn are very 
pleasing. I have also seen this shrub give 
excellent results when planted on the grass 
and trained over a small wire or rustic frame¬ 
work. A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Epiphyllums.—These bright flowering suc¬ 
culents are not by any means difficult to grow, 
and their merits as winter-flowering plants 
should commend them to all who have a 
warm greenhouse or stove. The beauty of 
the per.dant flowers is best displayed when 
grown as standards, and this is the form 
generally adopted, being graftal upon the 
Pereskia stock. After new growth is com 
pleted in early summer the plants should be 
kept in a coll greenhouse until about this 
time, or later if wanted in flower at a late 
date, introduce into a temperature of about 
55 to 60 degrees for flowering, and let the 
plants be placed in such a position that but 
little water reaches them from the syringe. 
Give only sufficient water at the roots to pre¬ 
vent shrivelling, and when flowering is past 
repot, or top dress, as required; then 
remove to cooler quarters. To ensure free- 
flowering give abundance of air and light 
during summer and autunm to ripen the 
growth. 
Carnations. —The structure in which these 
are wintered should be scrupulously clean, 
and freely ventilated on all favourable occa¬ 
sions. If possible, the plants should stan l 
upon a cool, moist bottom, such as is afforded 
by shingle or coal ashes. Fumigate occa¬ 
sionally to keep down fly, and should mildew 
appear upon the foliage flowers of sulphur 
should be dusted liberally upon the affected 
parts. Young plants in 60’s intended for 
flowering twelve months hence should be kept 
on shelves near the roof-glass and grown on 
freely, yet sturdily. The flowering plants 
should be regularly supplied with mild stimu¬ 
lants when well established, such as liquid 
sheep manure or guano, and all weak side 
buds pinched out. 
Freesias. —The earliest potted batch of 
bulbs may now be introduced to a gentle 
warmth so as to promote free root-action and 
the production of flower spikes. A tempera¬ 
ture not exceeding 60 degrees at any time 
will answer well. Before the growths fall 
about place a few pieces of spray-birch among 
them and pass a tie around them. 
Clerodendrou fallax. —Plants that have 
passed out of flower should now be gradually 
dried off and stored in a warm, dry place 
for the winter, taking care that they do not 
become too dry at the root, or the wood will 
shrivel and die back. K. M. 
Henry Eckford.- —“ This veteran British 
horticulturist, now lying ailing at home in his 
eighty-second year, may, perhaps, feel some 
pleasant satisfaction in hearing that the seed- 
growers of Germany raise their hats at the 
mention of his honoured name, and admit 
that to him they and the whole world of 
horticulture owe nearly all the grand large- 
flowered Sweet Peas in all the current lists." 
-t—E dward Owen Greening in the “ Standard. ’ 
* * * 
Farming and Gardening in the Trans¬ 
vaal. —Our correspondent, Mr. George 
Tliorncroft, says that “ We are all amateurs, 
more or less, in the Transvaal. Even a 
farmer or gardener from home has to begin 
his education over again, for our climate, 
seasons, etc., axe quite different. The farmers 
here grow chiefly for the Johannesburg mar¬ 
ket, our season being two months earlier than 
up there. We seldom get frost here, but got 
it this winter, sharp, too, destroying Tomato 
plants that would have brought the farmers 
about £3.000. This is one of their chief crops. 
They also grow Green Peas. French Beans, 
Melons, early Cucumbers. Pineapples, up to 
11 lbs. each. Oranges, Mangoes, Nartjees, 
Guavas, Avocado Pears, Papaws, and Tobacco. 
We have the soil and climate and grow the 
finest in Africa." 
