S30 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
October 28, 1305. 
OUR . . . 
Northern Gardens. 
Flower Garden and 
Pleasure Ground. 
Herbaceous Plants. —Where fresh planta¬ 
tions of these are to be made or old beds or 
borders replanted, this is a good time to 
undertake the work. In the matter of new 
plantations the work is simplified, and it. 
is a good plan to prepare the ground a short 
time previous to planting, to allow the newly- 
worked soil ‘to settle. In the case of renew¬ 
ing old plantations tire plants must all be 
lifted and covered up with mats or other 
material to exclude the air from the roots. 
As regards heavy soil, work in any available 
material, such as sand, road grit, or half- 
decayed leaves, to act as a disintegrator, with 
a good dressing of manure—farmyard manure 
for a light soil, and pure stable manure for 
a heavy soil. Trench the bed or border at 
least two spits deep. Quite small faeces are 
preferable to large ones for planting, and 
they should be taken from the outer edges of 
the old stools, where the young growths are 
stronger. Reflection and forethought must 
be used in planting, taking care to grade the 
heights and harmonise the colours. It is a 
good plan to plant a certain proportion of 
tender or half-hardy plants, such as. Chry¬ 
santhemums, Dahlias, 'Salvias, Gladioli, etc., 
amongst the hardy plants, and spaces must 
be left for these when planting the more per¬ 
manent, subjects. In the case of late-flower¬ 
ing bulbs, such as the Anthericums and Hya- 
cinthiis oandicans, it is a good plan to mark 
the spot where they have been planted by in¬ 
serting a green-painted hardwood peg. This 
will prevent accidents to them when digging 
or planting operations are being carried on in 
the spring before these bulbs push through 
the soil. 
Conservatory and Greenhouse. 
Callas. —In the case of large pots that have 
been standing out of doors or in cold pits for 
want of room indoors, they may be taken 
inside as the early Chrysanthemums go out 
of flower. 
Salvia Heeri. — This useful variety will 
now be growing vigorously ; attend to tying 
in the shoots to the stakes, and give stimu¬ 
lants twice a week. 
FRAMES. 
Shrubby Calceolaria?.— These will now be 
showing signs of rooting, and more air must 
be admitted. See that they do not suffer for 
want of water. 
Violas. —The lights should be kept off 
except in the case of frost or drenching rains. 
C. C. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Manuring. —The time has now arrived 
when the preparation of the soil for next 
season’s crops claims our most careful atten¬ 
tion. I need not here enter into any great 
detail regarding the benefits to be derived 
from a rotation of crops. I am well aware 
that, owing to the - difference of tastes in 
vegetables, it is not always possible to have 
the change of crops that we know is so bene¬ 
ficial. For instance, in some gardens Peas 
are in great demand, while Cauliflower may 
be but little used. Kidney Beans may also 
be considered of first-rate importance, wljjle 
Turnips are never asked for. In circum¬ 
stances such as these it is a much more diffi¬ 
cult matter to give proper rotation than where 
the general run of vegetables are in demand 
at the proper seasons. 
In applying manure, so as to ensure our 
deriving the full benefit from the material 
used, we must look far ahead, and plan where, 
the various crops are to be placed next season. 
In a general sense most crops are benefited.by 
an application of farmyard manure. On very 
lignt soils cow manure is by far the best, and 
if the soil is shallow, with a gravel bottom, 
very heavy annual applications are a neces¬ 
sity. Where at all possible, the manuring 
of such soils should be deferred till spring, 
as the heavy winter rains wash away the best 
of the material long before the crops can 
benefit any. On very heavy clay soils, on 
the other hand, I find that stable manure, 
used in as rough a state as possible, and 
applied during autumn and winter, has a very 
good effect. Such heavy soils are not at all 
suited for growing Potatos without a very 
large amount of labour. I have found, how¬ 
ever, that large quantities of leaves that.have 
lain a year, when dug into the soil in autumn, 
are very beneficial. 
On good fair loams much less manure is 
required than on light soils. When un¬ 
limited supplies of farmyard manure are at 
command, one is sometimes inclined to over¬ 
do this part of the work. Needless to point- 
out, we can in many cases over-manure, 
which is quite as bad as underdoing it. On 
the whole, everyone must be guided by the 
quality of their soil, and by the amount 
and the quality of the material at command. 
Many other points on the subject of manur¬ 
ing are worthy of earnest consideration, and 
I hope to have a few words to say on the 
matter at some future time. C. Blair. 
Preston, Linlithgow. 
CULINARY WHEN 
. __ „ HOW S 
PF A C WHAT 
1 j—- /v —' • TO GROW. 
I suppose every gardener and all those who 
possess a garden would tell us that they 
understood the cultivation of Peas, but I 
have always found that however much one 
knows one may still learn more from others, 
a r nd as Peas are such universal favourites 
of the garden, I think a few remarks on their 
culture may prove interesting and, I hope, 
instructive. 
Preparing the Ground.— The preparation 
of the ground is an important matter, and 
often decides the future of the crop. Deep 
digging trenching is essential, working in 
plenty of good farmyard manure. If the soil 
is very heavy a trench should be prepared 
in the same way as for Celery, keeping the 
manure at least a foot- below the surface, and 
filling in with the best compost obtainable, 
mixed with a portion of that taken out. 
Varieties.- —The selection of varieties has 
often to be made haphazard when practical 
knowledge of the subject is lacking, and with 
so many varieties to choose from the choice 
is not always satisfactory. The appended 
list, however, I have tried, and have always 
found them give the utmost satisfaction. 
They combine four great qualities, viz., 
strong constitution, excellent quality, heavy 
croppers, and medium height. They may be 
sown in the same order in which they are 
given. First, early, William the First, 4 ft. ; 
Exonian, 4 ft. to 5 ft. ; Gradus, 4g ft. ; 
Sutton’s Early Giant, 4 ft. Second, early 
and mid season : Daisy, 2 ft. to 3 ft. ; Duke 
of Albany, 5 ft. to 5g ft. ; Centenary, 5 ft. 
Maincrop and late : The Gladstone, 5 ft. ; 
Autocrat, 4 ft. ; Perfection, 3g ft. I strongly 
recommend Exonian where space is limited, 
as, while the pods are rather small, yet they 
fill up quickly, are of good quality, very heavy 
croppers, and continue bearing for a very 
long time. 
Sowing. —For an extra early crop a sowing 
may be made about the second or third week 
in November -on a warm border sheltered 
from north-east winds, or they may be raised 
m frames, in boxes made for the purpose, and 
planted out early in spring. In either case 
they will require a deal of looking after in 
the way of protecting from frost and cold 
winds. If the sowing is made out of doors 
they should have a little soil drawn around 
them when they attain the height of about 
3 in. They should also be accommodated 
with a few twiggy sticks on either side, also a 
few Spruce branches on the north or east 
side, as the case may be. A mulch of partly- 
decayed leaves or other litter should also be 
applied between the rows, and, in case of 
hard weather, Bracken, straw, or some other 
protecting material should be shaken over 
them, always removing it in the daytime 
whenever the state of the weather permits. 
Later on in spring, when taller sticks have 
been given them, reed mats or some other 
protection must be afforded them until all 
fear of sharp frost is past. Successional sow¬ 
ings may be made as usual from January 
onward Until Midsummer. A sowing of Daisy 
may alsc be made as late as July 5th, as they 
often prove quite an acquisition in the 
autumn. As regards distance to plant, the 
height of the variety is supposed in a general 
way to. indicate the distance from row to row, 
but I invariably allow another foot, which I 
consider is amply repaid. 
In conclusion, I would advise all culti¬ 
vators in districts infested with birds (as we 
are here at Bicton, especially the Blue Tit) to 
allow all the later sowings to trail on the 
ground instead of staking them, as if they are 
staked nothing but g-inch netting will keep 
them off, and after using it for this purpose 
it is of no further use, whereas if they are 
on the ground unprotected the birds only get 
half of them', that which is uppermost, and if 
a net can be spread over them the whole may 
be saved and the net be none the worse. 
E. Lawrexce. 
’ The Patchouli plant was first introduced to 
Europe about the year 1850, and the first 
parcels imported into London are said to 
have been procured for French manufac¬ 
turers, who impregnated imitation Indian 
shawls, which the borrowed odour enabled 
them to pass off as genuine. 
