October 28, 1905. 
the tips in each case are of a uniform colour 
without spots. Imported bulbs give rise to 
varieties which differ considerably in the in¬ 
tensity of the ground colour, and this is seen 
to most advantage where the segments are not 
spotted. The plant grows about 3ft. to 5ft. 
in height, according to vigour, and carries 
its leaves in whorls with short intervals 
between them. In these respects it recalls 
the European L. Martagon, to which section 
it indeed belongs. 
On the whole it is a magnificent Lily when 
well grown, and does not belie its specific 
name. It is perfectly hardy in this country, 
and, provided means are taken to ensure the 
soil being moist during the summer months, 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
no difficulty will be occasioned in growing it. 
Tn its native country it grows in woods and 
swamps, which would indicate that moisture, 
at least during the growing season, would be 
beneficial to its welfare. The bulb should, 
on the other hand, be kept drier in winter. 
This can be ensured by having it in a well- 
drained soil. The usual method of ensuring a 
sufficiency of moisture is to grow it in peat or 
a soil containing much leaf mould, but we 
think that it might be planted in a bog bed 
with advantage, where the soil can be flooded 
in the summer time and kept dry in winter 
by shutting off the water, or diverting it in 
some other direction. 
835 
Supplementary Replies 
BY OUR READERS 
To Answers in the “ G. W.” Enquire Within. 
Montbretias. 
The following are good sorts of Montbretia, 
and my be useful to “ L. R. S.” ; they are 
easily obtainable : — Brilliant, orange-scarlet; 
Aurea superba, golden and splendid; El¬ 
dorado, golden, very dwarf; Gerbe d’Or, 
golden Meteor, salmon-scarlet; Phare, orange- 
scarlet; Pyramidalis, apricot; Rosea, apricot - 
rose ; and Solfaterre, large deep lemon. 
D. Y. E. 
VEGETABLES 
ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
IX. —BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
One plant produces several good dishes of 
vegetables. It is a vegetable which all 
amateurs should grow, even in small gardens ; 
indeed, it is one of the most remunerative as 
regards cropping and in the front rank as 
regards quality. 
The Soil and Situation —Some care should 
be taken in the selection of the ground for 
this crop. It well repays for high culture. 
I do not mean by this a deep, loose, rich soil, 
but one well tilled, made fairly firm if of a 
light nature, and not too rich in organic 
manure. 
The situation should be fairly open, but 
sheltered by fences from the north-east and 
south-west winds. Many fine specimen plants 
are annually spoiled through being partially 
tom out of the soil by strong gales. The 
plants may be well grown both in light and 
retentive ground. 
Raising the Seedlings. — A long period 
should be allowed for the plants to grow in 
if they are to bear a full crop of firm Sprouts. 
A fair-sized plant must first be produced 
before any Sprouts can form. Fifty plants 
will give a good return, and those persons 
who have a frame or a greenhouse should sow 
a pinch of seeds thinly in a box filled with 
fine loam early in the month of February. 
The young seedlings must be transplanted to 
other boxes or to the bed of a frame, when 
they possess several leaves. Once more 
transplant them in an open border, 4 in. 
apart, in April, and slightly protect them for 
a few days. From this position transfer 
them to their permanent quarters towards the 
end of May. These will prove profitable 
plants, and allow of gatherings to be made 
during October. Sow seeds in the open 
bbrder at the end of March, transplant the 
seedlings once before putting them in their 
winter quarters. Sturdier plants are the 
result of transplanting. Those left in the 
seed-beds until they are large, and then 
roughly drawn out and finally planted, will 
never do as well as others carefully attended 
to at all stages. 
Final Planting. —Some varieties are taller 
growing than others, but the dwarf ones 
attain to a fair size, and .when the stems are 
laden with plump sprouts there is a. con¬ 
siderable weight for the roots to sustain. 
Often I have seen fine breadths of these plants 
beaten down by strong winds. The rooting 
medium must be firm and moderately rich. 
Ground which has been occupied by early 
Potatos does not require any manure added 
for the Brussels Sprouts ; but it must be 
made firm. 
Scatter sufficient soot to darken the sur¬ 
face ; then level the ground with a garden 
fork, finally treading it down and raking over 
the surface. This work will cause tile soot 
to become well incorporated with the soil. 
How to lift a small plant of Brussels Sprouts from 
nursery bed to preserve the roots. 
Use a garden fork to raise the young plants 
in the nursery beds so as to preserve all the 
roots, and a trowel to plant them with so 
as to spread out the roots evenly ; do not cram 
the roots close together in a narrow hole. 
Steady, early growth does not mean a ram¬ 
pant growth, but one which is sturdy, 
solidified, and will withstand the wintry 
weather, bearing at the same time clusters of 
solid Sprouts, which are sweet when cooked.. 
Open ones are bitter to the taste. 
Winter Treatment —This is similar to that 
which I recommend for Broccoli, but I would 
urge growers to be sure and draw up soil to 
the stems before the leaves of the plants 
cover- the surface of the ground ; and it is 
very important that yellow leaves be removed 
regularly, and not allowed to remain on the 
plants or the ground. 
Insect Pests and Diseases — Brussels 
Sprouts are subject to the same attacks from 
the above as Broccoli, and I refer my readers 
to the notes on these pests given in the 
chapter dealing with Broccoli. 
Varieties. — Aigburth, Scrymger’s Giant, 
President Carnot, The Bullet, The Wroxton, 
and Dalkeith. 
In season from September to April. G. 
Sedum obtusatum. 
Your correspondent “Heather Bell” is 
generally so practical and well informed that 
I am surprised he should advocate raising this 
plant from seed. It roots as freely as the well 
known Sedum lydium, the smallest portion 
forming a plant if left on the ground ; indeed, 
so much is this the case that it soon becomes 
rather a nuisance among choice alpines. Its 
beauty is undeniable. It may be that 
although “ Heather Bell ” has seen the plant 
frequently, he has not had personal experi¬ 
ence in its cultivation. If he has, and yet 
thinks it best to increase stock by seed. I am 
sure lie will forgive me for pointing out how 
easily it can be done from cuttings. J. C. 
Holly Hedge. 
I quite agree with “ M. J. R.” that the Holly 
hedge after being clipped with the two-handed 
shears is unsightly, and I think much improve¬ 
ment would be made if more consideration were 
given by those who cut them, as anyone with 
an eye to beauty detests these clipped, whether 
in this or other large-leaved hedges. They 
should be cut with the one-handed shears, when 
the leaves would not be cut, and the cuts would 
be mostly hidden if cut back to a leaf, leaving 
the very shortest growths. The’only argument 
in favour of this leaf-cutting business is that 
it is quicker, and -where hard on a boundary it 
might be said there is no remedy. But it can 
be done with far more effect, especially if the 
hedge is taken in hand when young, as then 
pieces here and there can be taken out, which 
makes it look lighter, and at the same time 
holding the hedge to the boundary. Often one 
sees Laurel hedges cut as “ M. J. R.’s” Hollies, 
which is more offensive. For me, I would' 
rather not have a hedge than one cut in this 
way, when it can be done otherwise. 
G. \Yalleb. 
Cock Crow Hill, Ditton Hill, Surbiton. 
Wall for Fruit Trees. 
A good wall for the purpose should be 10 ft. 
high, and if of brick 9 in. in width above the 
ground level. Width, etc., of a stone wall 
would vary according to the quality of the 
stone from 12 in. to 15 in. A wall with the 
courses sloping with the slope of the ground 
looks the neatest. If wind pressure is severe 
the walls will need buttresses about- 18 ft. 
apart on both sides. In the case of a brick 
wall these usually project 4g in., and about 
14 in. in width. Stone buttresses are, of 
course,- thicker. 
Such a wall will require a foundation, accord¬ 
ing to the nature of the subsoil, from 1 ft. to 
