858 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
November 4, 1905. 
Postcard Showing Plant in Flower. 
Will you kindly give the name of the plant 
shown on the other side? The plant- has flowered 
this year, and although it has been in the garden 
for a great number of years has never flowered 
previously. It is stated that this kind only 
flowers once during a century, but I am rather 
inclined to doubt that. A reply through Thf. 
Gardening World will be greatly appreciated. 
(J. T. R.) 
The picture shows the inflorescence and the tips 
of the leaves of Yucca gloriosa. You are quite 
right in supposing it a mistake to say that it 
flowers only once during a century. We are 
even surprised that it should have been in your 
garden for a great number of years without 
flowering. It may, however, have been planted 
in quite a small state. After it gets fairly strong 
it should flower every year or every second year. 
The situation where it is planted may not have 
been favourable to rapid growth, and the climate 
may also have kept it in check It should, how¬ 
ever, flower frequently now. 
Clearing a Garden of Slugs. 
What is the most effectual way of clearing a 
garden of slugs? My Cabbages are almost eaten 
a-way by them. (Novice.) 
Clean cultivation is the most effectual remedy 
for slugs. Close planting every year, shallow 
digging, and allowing weeds to grow amongst the 
plants, are circumstances which favour the slugs 
by leaving them undisturbed and furnishing them 
with plenty of food. The antidotes to this state 
of matters are to trench your garden at least 
2ft. deep once in two years at least, to keep the 
ground well hoed and clean during the summer 
months, and to clear away useless leaves at the 
base of the Cabbages which serve to shelter the 
slugs. If the surface is kept frequently stirred 
and exposed to light it will always be 'in a dry 
condition on the surface during dry weather, and 
that is a first-class preventive to the increase of 
slugs. At the present time we should clear away 
all useless leaves, clean the ground if necessary, 
and draw up the soil against the stems of the 
Cabbages in the same way as you would do with 
Potatos in summer. This will serve in a measure 
to keep the enemy in check until you have the 
ground cleared and can commence tillage opera¬ 
tions. 
Eremurus for a Succession. 
Last spring we had a fine display of Eremurus 
himalaicus and E. Elwesii, hut- they came into 
bloom almost together, and only lasted about a 
fortnight or a little over. Please say if there are 
others that would continue the display. (T. W.) 
There are several others which flower some¬ 
what later than those you mention, and, though 
le;s stately, they serve to give variety in colour 
and are handsome in their several ways. 
E. Warei has orange-yellow flowers, more or less 
shaded with olive or brown, but varies somewhat 
in colour and blooms well into June. Some time 
later than this the beautiful yellow variety 
E. Bungei blooms, and though the flower spike 
is short and the plant dwarf, the flowers are 
densely crowded and very ornamental as well as 
interesting. The latest to flower coming under 
our notice is E. Olgae, which runs up to a height 
of 5ft. or 6ft. and has white flowers with a 
greenish-brown midrib to the segments. This 
blooms well into summer, and though the flowers 
are not very closely placed, the plant is stately. 
Sea Hollies. 
While away from home recently I found the 
Sea Holly thriving splendidly on the seashore. 
Would this succeed in gardens away from the 
sea? I would be glad if you woulcl name several 
other kinds which would grow with me, as I wish 
to make a bed of them ou the lawn. (G. W. 
Medland.) 
If your garden is fairly light or sandy, but at all 
events well drained, we do not think you will have 
any difficulty in growing this native species. We 
presume it woulcl colour best in rather sandy soil, 
provided there is plenty of depth for the roots to 
go down. Being dwarf, it should be planted as 
an edging to the bed. Another dwarf species is 
E. Bourgati, with rich blue stems, which should 
also be kept near the front. Further back you 
may place E. giganteum, about 2ft. high and very 
ornamental. It is only a biennial, however, so 
that you would require to have a stock of plants 
making a crown of leaves one year to flower the 
next-. It comes readily from seeds, however, and 
seedlings will even come up in the bed if the 
flower-heads are allowed to remain till they ripen 
seeds. E. amethystinum is similar in height to 
E. Bourgati, and has ornamental blue stems and 
bracts. Nearer the centre of the bed vou could 
plant E. planum, which usually grows about 2pt. 
to 3ft. high, and produces a great wealth of small 
blue'heads. A much larger species is E. oliveri- 
anum, which grows about the same height as the 
last, but has larger, more divided leaves and 
stouter stems with larger blue heads. The two 
last named should occupy the centre of the bed. 
All of those we have named are of easy culture. 
Names cf Plants. 
(Keenan) The plant with red berries was 
Cotoneaster Simonsii; the other was Olearia 
Haastii.—• (H. Davis) 1, Erica vagans; 2, Hippo- 
phae rhamnoides ; 3, Symphoricarpus racemosus ; 
4, Veronica Anclersoni variegata; 5, Pyrus Aria. 
—(W. W.) 1, Aster vimineus; 2, Aster Novi- 
Belgii var. ; 3, Chrysanthemum sinense var.; 4, 
Chrysanthemum Parthenium aureum; 5, Ber- 
beris Aquifolium.—(A.M.) 1, Platanus orien- 
talis, the Oriental Plane; 2, Platanus ac-eri 
folia, the London Plane.—(Jas. Retty) 1, Mentha 
Requieni; 2, Herniaria glabra; 3, Sibthorpia 
peregrina. 
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