November 11, 1905. 
THE GARDENING WORLt). 
£6] 
outlay of a few shillings. I will leave my 
amateurs to decide for themselves about the 
select kinds, which require an education to 
determine their distinctive merits. 
C. villosum, C. Boxallii, and 0. hirsutissimum 
are the remaining species, following in the order 
named. There are now many cheaply procured 
hybrids dtrived from the species above men¬ 
tioned as one or both their parents. The 
hybrids derived from the influence of C. insigne 
are all useful. The best and perhaps the most 
variable hybrid Cypripedium in cultivation is 
C. lecanum, raised from the intercrossing of C. 
insigne ancl C. spicerianum. These have now 
become so plentiful that they may be procured 
reasonably. C. harrisianam flowers at different 
seasons of the year. The hybrids having C. 
villosum and C. Boxallii as one of the parents 
are later flowering kinds. C. hirsutissimum 
hybrids display a considerable amount of the 
characteristics of that species and make an 
attractive finish to the winter-flowering kinds. 
The whole of this section can be cultivated 
successfully where a temperature of from 50 to 
55 degrees can be maintained with normal 
conditions outside. The method of treatment 
I have noted on various occasions during the 
present and past years. 
H. J. Chapman. 
Fruit Garden. 
Outdoors. 
Gooseberries. —Few peojile dislike this 
fruit in a ripe state, and it is the earliest to 
come in for tarts, etc. ; in short, it is every¬ 
one’s fruit, so there need be no apology in 
lauding its usefulness. In spite of this, the 
bushes are much neglected by cottagers, and 
not a few amateurs, as it is no unusual thing 
to see them year after year bearing small and, 
I may say, almost worthless berries, the 
bushes having the appearance of a bundle of 
tied-up wood, making but little growth and 
receiving no attention in the matter of 
pruning or manuring. New, of all fruits, the 
one under notice repays for annual top-dress¬ 
ing, and the manure cannot well be tooi rich, 
cow or pig manure probably being the most 
suitable either for old plantations or new 
sites, in the latter case to be thoroughly in¬ 
corporated with the soil when trenching. 
Last week’s calendar respecting Currants ap¬ 
plies to Gooseberries as well as regards dis¬ 
tance to plant, site, etc., and to extend the! 
season they are often planted against north 
walls, but the flavour is not so good as fruit 
grown in the open where the sun can reach 
them. In purchasing bushes, make it a point 
that the bushes have a clean 6-in. stem, or 
suckers from the base will prove a source of 
trouble, which, if neglected for only a season, 
form a dense thicket, as above stated. Varieties 
are numerous, and it must not be supposed) 
that the largest are the sweetest. The follow¬ 
ing short list will comprise the cream in 
yellows, green, white, and red:—-May Duke, 
Crown Bob, Warrington, Lancashire Lad, 
Greengage, Langley Green, Whitesmith, 
Snowdrop, Cheshire Lass, Golden Drop, 
Early Sulphur, and Golden Gem. 
Raspberries. —Not a little depends upon! 
the treatment they annually receive as to 1 
the length of time a plantation of this fruit 
lasts, but after eight to ten years they should 
be replanted in a fresh site after trenching 
the ground 2ft. or so in depth, adding a good 
dressing of half-decayed manure, and planting, 
single canes 18in. or 2ft. apart, cutting these 
back .in March to within a few inches of the 
ground to encourage new growth from the 
base, applying a mulch of short manure 3in. 
in thickness. There are several varieties to 
choose from, some thriving and fruiting better 
than others, soil and climate being responsible 
for this. Among reds Superlative stands oub 
well, , also Beehive, Norwich Wonder, 
Carters I rqlific, and Antwerp. The Guinea 
is comparatively new and with a strong con¬ 
stitution, and should be given a trial with 
yellow Antwerp. 
Indoors 
Early Permanent Vines may now be 
pi lined, cutting back to the first or second 
OUR WEEKLY PRIZE COM¬ 
PETITIONS. 
General Conditions.— Competitors must 
write on one side of the paper only. Regular 
paid contributors to The Gardening World, 
or other gardening journals, are debarred 
from entering, but occasional contributors 
may compete. The name and address of the 
competitor must appear on each article sent 
for competition. The Editor’s decision is 
final, and he reserves the right to reproduce, 
in any way, any article or photograph sent 
for competition. The conditions applying to 
each competition should be carefully read. 
WEEKLY PRIZES. 
A Prize of Ten Shillings will be given 
tor the best paragraph or short article on any 
gardening subject, such as hints of practical 
interest to gardeners, notes on the propaga¬ 
tion or cultivation of flowers, fruits or vege¬ 
tables, eradication of pests, etc. The para¬ 
graph or article must not exceed a column, 
but value rather than length will be con¬ 
sidered in making the award. Mark enve¬ 
lopes “ Competition,” and past not later than 
the Monday following date of issue. Entries 
received later than Tuesday (first post) will 
be left over until the following week. 
Two Prizes of Two Shillings and Six¬ 
pence each will be given for the best supple¬ 
mentary replies to questions asked in “ The 
G. W. Enquire Within ” column. These re¬ 
plies should be brief. 
A Prize of Five Shillings will be given 
for the best novel device for saving labour, 
protecting plants, or a garden utensil, which 
reaches us during any week. A rough 
sketch must accompany the brief description. 
--©--- 
RESULTS OF LAST WEEKS COM 
PETITIONS. 
IVe have now a la-ge number of articles on hand 
1 ni the “ IteidL-rs’ Competition,” and desire our corre- 
I spondents to wait a fe v weeks before sending more 
articles for this competition, until we can find space to 
publish those already sent us. We shall remind 
leaders when they can send more competitive articles. 
The o'.her competitions are still open. 
A prize for a supplementary reply was 
awarded to il J. C. ” for his article on “A 
Pond for Water Lilies ; ” and another to 
“ Dunn ” for an article on “ American Blight 
on Apple Tree 5 ,” p. 852. 
V._ ■— J 
eye of wood made this season ; the latter is 
usually the safest, as the second growth, if 
not required in spring, can be easily rubbed 
off. Clean off all loose bark, but do not rob 
the canes too severely, unless; mealy bug is 
on them, as Vines always cast their bark at 
an opportune time if left to Nature. Cut 
away any snag at the spurs, and wash the 
glass and woodwork before further attending 
the Vines, using warm soapy water. Brush) 
down the walls, and limewash the same, Sot 
that all may be sweet and clean. Then, with 
warm soapy water and a scrubbing brush, 
wash each rod, being careful that the eyes on 
the spur growths are not injured in the opera¬ 
tion, and, if red spider has been prevalent, 
paint the rods with Gishurst’s, or a thin mix¬ 
ture of sulphur and soft soap. In case of 
mealy bug, search well all crevices, and 
touch all affected parts with methylated 
spirits, or wash the rods with hot water that 
lias a wineglass of paraffin to three gallons 
of water, agitating it well with the syringe, 
so that the two mix well together. Vines 
that have been forced for several years may 
be tied in position, but tying horizontal!v 
any young canes, so that a better break be 
obtained. Thoroughly brush up all rubbish, 
and then prick up the surface of tho border 
taking every care of the roots, and replace 
with fresh soil after clearing away the old a 
good compost being loam, not too light, with, 
a little bone meal, mortar rubble, and wood- 
ashes added, or, in place of the former, a 
little Thomson’s or Bentley’s Vine manure 
may be substituted. If the inside border is 
found to be on the dry side, water is better 
applied before putting on the top dressing, as 
the latter may get washed aside. Keep" the 
house well ventilated before closing time 
arrives, which need not he until the new 
year if ripe Grapes are not required until 
early in June, or when pot Vines supply the 
earliest fruit in April or May. 
James Mayne. 
-Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Lilium longiflorum. —The pure white 
flowers of this noble Lily and its congener, 
L. Harrisii, are well known to be of in¬ 
estimable value for cutting purposes, as well 
as for making a display in the conservatory. 
Bulbs for flowering next April should now be 
potted up, using a compost of two parts 
fibrous loam to’ one ea.cli of leaf soil and peat, 
adding plenty of sharp sand and small pieces 
of charcoal. The pots should be clean and 
well-drained, and the soil used in a 'lumpy 
state. In potting, leave the apex of the bulb 
well above the surface soil, and leave plenty 
of room for a good top-dressing of rich soil 
when in active growth. If the soil is fairly 
moist when used, no water will be required 
for several days, and the pots should be 
placed upon a coal-ash bottom in a frame or 
pit. Close watch should be exercised that 
the young growths do not become infested 
with green fly, and on its first appearance 
eradicate them with mild fumigations. 
Azaleas. —A few plants of the mollis and 
amoena type may be introduced to a genial 
warmth of about 55 deg. and be kept* well 
syringed. The single-flowered Fielder’s 
White and the double Deutclie Perle are 
both adapted for forcing, provided it is not 
carried to excess, and by introducing two or 
three plants at intervals of a few °days a 
regular supply may be kept up. 
Lachenalias, —'Early potted bulbs will now 
be growing apace, and some assistance should 
be afforded in the way of weak liquid manure. 
This may be given once or twice a week with 
beneficial results. Keep the plants on 
shelves quite near the roof-gltiss, in order to 
ensure sturdy and well-developed leafage. 
Afiican Tuberoses.— Although - not so 
popular as the American Pearl variety, yet 
where the flowers are in request for several 
months in the year some may be grown, as 
the Pearl bulbs do not reach this country 
until December. 
The bulbs should be potted on arrival in 
5-in. .pots, using a fairly light, rich soil. 
Plunge in some fermenting material in the 
forcing house, and avoid over-watering until 
new roots permeate the soil. Liquid farm¬ 
yard manure or guano may be applied when 
the pots are filled with roots, and a stake 
placed to each growth. K. M. 
