November 11, 1905. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
GO 
Chrysanthemum Mary Richardson. 
The above is a variety of C. sinense, which 
we introduce here to show the range of variety 
now to be found in the species. When raising 
double flowers, it is possible to get varieties 
having numerous tiers of rays, but in a single 
Chrysanthemum to be fit for taking its place 
in this section there should not be more than 
two or three tiers of florets. The variety is 
of moderate size, coming between a set having 
flowers 3in. to 5in. in diameter, and another 
set with small flowers about lin. in diameter. 
The exhibition blooms which we represent 
are seldom used for cut flower purposes, 
although under certain conditions they may 
quite appropriately be used for such a pur¬ 
pose. The .singles are more suitable for the 
flower vase and for dinner table decorations 
on account of their lighter and more grace¬ 
ful character, hence there is room in every 
establishment for cultivating a number of the 
finer singles. The medium-sized flowers are 
much more generally useful than the very 
large ones, because they last much longer 
without drooping in the cut state than those 
which attain a diameter of 4 in. or 5 in. 
The flowers of Mary Richardson are of a 
very unusual shade of colour, and pleasing, 
ami salmon terra-cotta seems to be the most 
convenient phrase to describe it. The colour 
is light rather than dark, and therefore is 
more effective by artificial light than a crim¬ 
son shade would be, or even a terra-cotta red. 
There are early and late flowering varieties of 
singles, just as there are amongst the' double 
types, and the same conditions apply if the 
cultivator desires flowers of extra size. He 
must then have recourse to the removal of the 
side buds, so that each branch may only bear 
one bloom, and devote the whole of its energy 
to bringing that bloom to perfection. To do 
this, however, requires much less time and 
trouble than in the growing of large exhibi¬ 
tion blooms. Tire cultivator need only go 
over the plants a few times at intervals, so as 
to remove the side buds with the finger and 
thumb when that can he done without in¬ 
juring the top ones. This variety gives the) 
best flowers when a few of the side buds have 
been removed in their earliest stage. 
Most of the above were in fine form at the 
Crystal Palace on the 1st inst. 
Chrysanthemum . . 
Perle Chatillonnaise. 
(See Supplement.) 
The above beautiful variety of Chrysanthe¬ 
mum first came under our notice at the 
October show of the National Chrysanthemum 
Society, when a First-class Certificate was: 
accorded it. It may be described as an early- 
flowering variety blooming in September and 
October. Besides the ordinary purposes ofi 
garden decoration, we believe it will come in 
for market purposes'. 
The size of the bloom depends entirely upon 
the treatment given it by the grower, for by 
disbudding the bloom may be had up to 6 in. 
in diametei'. For market purposes that is 
certainly as large as is necessary, but for the 
sake of producing variety in private establish¬ 
ments some of the plants may be disbudded 
and others left to grow naturally. Under 
such conditions the flowers would vary im¬ 
mensely in size, according to the treatment 
given. We know, however, that some ad¬ 
mirers prefer blooms of small size, where no 
disbudding whatever has been given, while 
others like a bloom of considerable weight andi 
size, necessitating disbudding. This, of 
course, is purely a matter of taste, ’ and 
growers will be guided accordingly. 
Some of the plants which we noted carried 
blooms averaging about 3-£ in. in diameter. 
That from which our illustration, was pre¬ 
pared was much larger. The florets are revo- 
lute at the sides, making them appear 
narrower than they really are. The colour 
is of a very light and pleasing shade, or 
rather mixture of colours, which we should 
describe as soft salmon-pink tinted with 
yellow in the centre of the blossom where th<- 
florets are younger. In any case, the variety 
is a new and very handsome one, and quite 
distinct amongst early-flowering varieties or 
market Chrysanthemums. The plants and 
flowers were exhibited at the Crystal Palace 
on October 4th by Messrs. It. H. Bath, Ltd., 
the Floral Farms, Wisbech. 
•Jr 
C THE 
YTISUS. 
How to Propagate this 
Handsome and Fragrant 
Greenhouse Plant. 
This plant is largely grown for the cool 
greenhouse, which would not be considered 
complete (in the earlier parts of the year) 
without it; failing not to produce an abund¬ 
ance of bloom, as well as filling the house with 
its fragrant perfume. To have in hand a 
healthy lot of young plants a new stock should 
he raised each year, and old plants destroyed 
which do not give satisfaction for the number 
of young ones there are to take their places. 
There is some difficulty in keeping up a suc¬ 
cession, especially so raising them from cut¬ 
tings, which are far superior in producing the 
largest quantity of bloom in comparison to 
seedlings. I suppose many are aware what a 
troublesome thing it is to root from cuttings; 
how disappointing it is to see pot after pot of 
them fail by damping quickly away, probably 
due by taking premature growth. Some re¬ 
commend propagating them in a cool frame 
during the summer; but for my part, and 
speaking from a successful practice, February 
is a good time. Select cuttings from the 
growths that are to bear the flower spikes, 
which, if showing, can be nipped out; take 
them off with a heel by slipping one here and 
there so as not to disfigure the plants, smooth 
the wound with a sharp knife, removing a few 
of the leaves at the base, and insert a number 
of them in one pot in nothing but fine sand. 
Thi-ee-parts fill the pot, give a watering and 
allow it to drain well, dibble the cuttings into 
this, and afterwards put a layer of dry sand 
on the surface. Place them under a bell glass 
in a house having a temperature of 60 to 65 
degs. Every morning take the glass off for a 
time and wipe away with a piece of cloth the 
moisture from the inside before replacing it. 
Should they need water again before they are 
rooted, apply this by holding the pots in 
water almost level with the rim, and let the 
water rise from the bottom in the same way as 
is usually done for very fine seeds. 
Rooting them in sand there is practically 
nothing for the young roots to cling to, eo 
that great care in dividing them after root 
formation is very important, the roots being 
easily broken off. The same applies to the 
first potting, not to press the soil too firmly 
about the roots. Small 60’s are large enough 
to pot them up singly; move on into larger 
sizes as the pots fill with roots, 48’s being 
large enough for the first season. Compost 
suitable consists of two parts good fibrous 
loam, one part leaf mould, with sand; this 
time firm potting is essential. Pinch them 
several times each time the growth has 
reached from 2in. to 3in. in length, to form a 
bushy plant. 
When they have finished flowering, cut 
them back to keep them a good shape; place 
them in a little heat, and syringe them fre¬ 
quently to encourage new growth to start 
evenly. Before they get too far advanced re¬ 
potting ought to be carried out, so that finer 
specimens may be obtained for the following 
season. Use compost rather coarser to that 
of above, adding a little rotten horse drop¬ 
pings. Being a strong rooting subject, liberal 
applications of liquid manure and soot water 
are beneficial. Expose them in the open 
during the summer to thoroughly mature the 
growth. At the approach of unfavourable 
weather remove them to their winter quarters. 
A. J. Morgan". 
Supplementary Replies 
BY OUR READERS 
To Answers in the “ G. W.” Enquire Within 
Treatment of Maranta bicolor. 
Maranta bicolor is a stove-house perennial, 
and worthy of a place in every collection. 
Like all varieties of Marantas, it revels in 
plenty of heat, shade, and moisture, both at 
the root and in the atmosphere. The best soil 
to pot Marantas in should consist of fibrous 
loam two parts, leaf soil one part, and peat 
one part, using silver sand freely. The 
spring of the year is the best time in which to 
shift them. Their propagation is by division. 
L. S. Small. 
Digging amongst Raspberries. 
Raspberries should be treated as follows : 
—As soon as they have finished fruiting, cut 
out all old fruiting canes as well as those 
not required for fruiting the following season. 
A mulch of lialf-rotten manure should then 
be applied. Very little else will be required 
besides keeping the plantation free of weeds 
until the winter, when the ground should be 
dug over shallowly with a fork, not closer to 
the canes than one foot. In the spring, when 
the sun has warmed the soil, apply a mulch of 
long manure to retain moisture. 
L. S. Small. 
Apple and Pear Trees, 
The best form of Apple trees to plant is 
half standards, either budded or grafted on 
the English Paradise stock, as they fruit 
younger on the Paradise than on the Crab 
stock. They should be at least fours years 
old, and planted 15ft. apart on ground* that 
has been prepared beforehand by trench¬ 
ing and manuring. The trees will require an 
annual pruning, which should be performed 
in July. In so doing, shorten back leading 
growths halfway, and side growths to three 
leaves. Some of the best sorts are Grand 
Sultan, Lady Sudeley, Gascoyne’s Scarlet 
Seedling, Worcester Pearmain, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Blenheim Pippin, Irish Peach, 
Beauty of Bath, Allington Pippin, and Bib- 
ston Pippin. 
The best form of Pear trees to plant is the 
bush or pyramid, budded on the Pear stock. 
The same distance apart will suffice as with 
Apples Prune them in July, as with Apples, 
but rather more severely. Some pf the best 
