870 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
November 11, 1905. 
sorts are Beurre Biel, Beurre Superfili, 
Doyenne d’Ete, Doyenne dti Cornice, Easter 
Beurre, Marie Louise, Williams’ Bon Clire- 
tien, Pitmaston Duchess, Beurre Ranee, 
Durondeau. Brown Beurre, and Beurre Clair- 
geau. Many more could be added to this 
fist. ' L. S. Small. 
Wall for Fruit Trees. 
Tire best wall on which to train various fruit 
trees is I consider, one built with kiln bricks 
and mortar, not necessarily hollow. The best 
way of fixing the trees to the wall is by wires 
strained along the wall 6in. apart, the eyes 
standing out at least 3in. from the wall, thus 
preventing insects from seeking shelter under 
the branches; besides, the trees can be 
quicker tied than trained with shreds and 
nails. Should the soil be heavy, the best way 
will be to remove the soil at least 30in. deep, 
putting in 6in. of drainage, such as bricks, 
clinkers, or chalk, keeping the roots rip near 
the surface. Burnt earth, wood ashes, and 
road sweepings can be added to the soil as the 
planting proceeds. L, S. Small. 
Bush of Gypsophila paniculata. 
If “ S. H.” is wanting to get plenty of the 
above for cutting in the shortest time, it 
would be useless to depend on one plant, 
although this one plant may throw a good deal 
of flower in live or ten years. This plant is slow 
in growth when first planted, but much may 
be done by generous treatment—by having 
the soil well broken up before planting, add¬ 
ing some manure, following this by giving an 
annual top dressing with liquid manure in dry 
weather. Gypsophila is a plant that will 
flourish in the same position for twenty years 
and more, so it is well to give the plant a 
good start off. My advice to “ S. H.” would 
be to supplement his one plant by purchasing 
a dozen more strong ones, planting these in 
clumps of three, as by having more plants 
there would be more to cut now, and even¬ 
tually abundance. G. Waller. 
Cock Crow Hill, Ditton Hill, Surbiton. 
POYAL BOTANIC 
l\ SOCIETY. Fi ~r 
The first autumn exhibition promoted by 
this society was held on October 18th, and was 
attended by a large number of Fellows and 
their friends. The exhibits consisted princi¬ 
pally of Carnations, Chrysanthemums, and 
foliage and flowering plants, and there was a 
collection of Grapes. 
Miss Adamson (gardener, Mr. G. Keif), 
South Villa, Regent's Park, had a good dis¬ 
play of flowering and foliage plants, and was 
awarded a Gold Medal. Eor a collection of 
Black Alicante Grapes the same exhibitor se¬ 
cured a Silver Gilt Medal. . Mr. S. Mortimer, 
of Farnham, Surrey, showed a clean and 
bright exhibit of winter-flowering Carnations, 
and for the new variety, Nelson Fisher, re¬ 
ceived an award of merit (large Silver Gilt 
Medal). 
Chrysanthemums in excellent form from the 
open ground were shown by Messrs. R. H. 
Bath Wisbech, who obtained awards of merit 
for Fair Maid and Perle Chatillonnaise, and 
for Le Pactole as a market variety (large 
Silver Gilt Medal). A splendid group of Chry¬ 
santhemums, Asters, Physalis, etc., staged by 
Mr. E. F. Such, of Maidenhead, secured a 
large Silver Gilt Medal. For an effective dis¬ 
play of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and the 
white form, set up by Messrs. John Peed and 
Son, West Norwood, a Silver Gilt Medal was 
awarded. 
A RARE BRITISH FERN. 
When spending a few days at Gwydyr lately 
I was shown several strong clumps of the 
forked Spleenwcrt (Asplenium septentrionale) 
growing within a few yards of where hundreds 
of tourists pass during the summer months 
when exploring the beautiful valley of the 
Conway and onwards to the pass of Llanberis. 
I counted about a score of plants nestling 
cosily in the crevices of an old wall, and sub¬ 
sisting mainly on lime rubbish and an accu¬ 
mulation of decayed vegetable matter—little 
indeed of the latter. The original discovery 
of this Fern is curiously interesting, for it 
occurred many years ago when the Chester 
Naturalists’ Society visited Trefiw and 
Llanrwst. 
Mr. McIntyre, agent of the Gwydyr pro¬ 
perty, a keen naturalist and observer, after 
having piloted the Chester Society over the 
more interesting parts of the estate, was re¬ 
turning home, and in crossing some fields 
espied the forked Spleenwort in the crevices 
of the wall referred to—a find, indeed, but 
too late in he day for the far-famed society 
to participate in the golry of the discovery. 
There were only two or three plants at that 
time, so the increase has -been fairly rapid, 
and I need hardly add that the sanctity of 
the spot is carefully guarded by the finder. 
A. D. Webster. 
Regent’s Park. 
Letter TO THE Editor. 
Sedum obtusatum, 
To the Editor of The Gardening World. 
Sir, —I can concur with “ J. C.” in what 
he says about the ease with which this plant 
may be increased by means of cuttings, but 
was my note unpractical because that is so ? 
My purpose in writing of the plant was to 
induce those who hitherto have not known or 
grown it to obtain it. This would seem ap¬ 
parent by the description of the plant, which 
would be unnecessary to those who already 
possess it and know what it is like. 
Well, then, if a garden does not contain 
Sedum obtusatum pieces cannot fall about to 
root, nor can cuttings well be taken; there¬ 
fore I say if anyone wishes to obtain Sedum 
obtusatum they can do so by raising seed 
which can be cheaply purchased. I have 
grown the plant both from seed and cuttings, 
and either plan is satisfactory. 
Heather Bell. 
in the Year 
This highly-esteemed vegetable can, under 
good management, be made available in sup¬ 
plying the table seven months in the year. 
The following plan deserves extensive en¬ 
couragement for giving a good autumn supply 
Up to the end of December. The Cauliflower 
is very apt to club and turn blind. This is 
caused by an insect. It is advisable, when 
the plants are lifed out of the seed-bed for 
final transplanting, to examine well on the 
stem for a small wart. Open it with the 
thumb-nail, and a maggot will he found, 
which is the cause of all the mischief. A 
pinch or two of burnt ashes placed round the 
roots when planted is an excellent precaution 
against its attacks. The land must be well 
worked and manured. 
Sow the seed in May, and when the plants 
are sufficiently strong prick them out in a 
rich bed made up for them, to allow them to 
make good roots. Before being transplanted 
to open ground, the land must be very rich, 
and soaked in the evenings with liquid 
manure. The stronger grown the better the 
plants will be, and the heads will come in 
about October. Should the weather be 
frosty, go and select the best heads and dig 
them up, with plenty of earth, and plant them 
in pits very close together, and allow the 
heads to be 3 in. above the eaidh and as near 
the glass as possible. 
For keeping through the winter under glass 
sow in September. If they grow too fast, 
lift and replant them. I have done this foi 
some years, and found it successful, and I 
want it known. H. Craven. 
Frieston, near Boston, Lilies. 
HOW TO GROW = = 
• Celery. ® 
This plant, although comparatively hardy 
and durable, requires nevertheless the most 
studied and generous treatment to ensure 
that state of perfection or merit which belongs 
to it. 
Seeds should be sown about the second 
week in February in a temperature of 60 
degrees. If very early Celery is wanted, pre¬ 
vious sowings of about three weeks should be 
made, using a rather light soil and slightly 
covering the seeds. Place a piece of glass 
over the box; also a piece of canvas to pre¬ 
vent evaporation. 
As soon as germinated remove to a coolei 
house, as near” the glass as possible. The 
seedlings, as soon as large enough, should be 
picked out into other boxes, leaving a space 
1-L in. between each, keeping these in com¬ 
fortable quarters until established, then re¬ 
moving them to the cold frame. Do. not ven 
tilate too freely for the first few days. 
Again, when these have grown together, do 
not plant into their permanent quarters, as is 
the practice of some'. A great advantage is 
gained by planting them on a good hard 
bottom. A good hard road is the ideal place 
for this. Make a wooden frame, 4 in. in 
depth and length, to accommodate the num¬ 
ber of plants. " Fill in with good, rich, loamy 
soil, made firm. 
Plant 4in. or 5in. apart. If in a positior 
exposed to cold winds, a few bundles of fii 
bougjhs laid round will provide the necessary 
protection. The plants may remain here to a 
good size, and finally plant them into 
trenches, when the plants may be cut out like 
cake, and very little check is given. 
Trenches should have been prepared as 
early in the season as possible. Choose a site 
where the soil is somewhat damp and of a 
good loamyr nature. Take out trenches 1ft 
in width and 9in. in depth, leaving intervene 
ing spaces of 4ft., placing 3in. of thoroughly 
decayed manure over the bottom and diggina 
it well in. 
Commence planting at one end 8 in. apart. 
Face the trench to be planted, place one foot 
down firmly on each side of those planted, 
and proceed to plant others, bringing the feet 
forward in such a manner that each is trodden 
firmly on either side until the completion oil 
all whole rows. Immediately this operatiov 
is finished, water them copiously in such : 
manner as to well settle the soil over tin 
roots. 
Earthing up Celery is a matter of great ini 
portance, and it is at this stage where success 
gained so far is often defeated and the resul 
a failure. 
At the latter end of July the plants shout 
be gone over and all side shoots removed 
