878 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
November 18, 1905. 
The Flower Garden. 
Out door work in this section of the garden 
should now be well in hand, unless alterations 
or improvements of some kind are contemplated. 
There is still time to take in hand the renova¬ 
tion of lawns and walks, provided the area to 
be dealt with is not large. This work, of course, 
may be proceeded with through the winter 
while hard frost keeps away, but where only a 
small piece is to be dealt with we prefer getting 
it done before Christmas, as then the turves 
have a chance to settle down ere they become 
frostbound. As a rule it is best to cdt the 
turves in one-foot squares an 1 about two inches 
thick and stack them on one side while the 
ground is being levelled. A simple method of 
levelling over a small area is to drive in a few 
rows of pegs at intervals of four feet or so and 
run a cord tightly from one to the other. If 
the pegs ai’e then knocked in till the tops are 
within an inch or so of the soil a fairly accurate 
idea of the parts requiring filling or reducing 
will be obtained ; this, of course, refers to small 
areas where the variations in level are not 
serious. Where a large area showing consider¬ 
able undulations is to be levelled, it is more 
satisfactory to have the work done properly 
from a fixed base, with borning rods or a 
surveyor’s level. 
Short walks may be dealt with in the same 
way, inserting a few pegs down the centre of 
the walk and levelling up to a cord stretched 
tightly between them. Many complaints are 
heard at times of walks picking up in wet 
weather. This, however, is nearly always due 
to faulty construction. Drains are, of course, 
necessary to carry away excessive moisture, but 
even these are not effectual where bad material 
is put on the surface. Sandy gravel is one of 
the best dressings which can be applied to the 
surface, but below this there should be four to 
six inches of broken bricks or clinkers, working 
the smaller pieces to the top before applying 
the gravel; we use f-andv gravel because it 
sets quite firmly when rolled, and is more 
pleasant to walk on than pure gravel. 
Grass lawns showing signs of exhaustion— 
that is, where the grass is becoming thin—will 
be greatly benefited by a light dressing of basic 
slag or kainit applied now ; the winter rains 
will wash this in and next season the effect will 
be seen in the increased vigour and dark green 
colour of the grass. B. W. J. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Peas. —Where facilities exist for cultivating 
Peas in pots the present is a capital time to 
make a commencement. I have for some years 
made it a practice of growing these somewhat 
largely in this way with the best possible 
results, as it enables one to pick good pods of 
the better varieties fully a month before those 
sown in the open are ready. The most suitable 
size are those known as ten-inch, well drained, 
over which should be placed some rough pieces 
of fibrous loam. The compost should consist 
of three parts fibrous loam finely chopped, one 
part leaf soil, and one part finely-sifted horse 
manure. Make moderately firm, filling the 
pots three parts full only to commence with, 
earthing up to the top when the plants are 
sufficiently advanced. The Peas should be 
distributed just as thick again as required ; 
overcrowding must be avoided. Five plants 
will be ample, so that ten seeds should be sown, 
drawing out the surplus ones when the earthing 
up process is done. Give a thorough watering 
in and allow the seed to germinate slowly, 
placing them in a cold frame or quite cool 
house. Peas resent forcing hard at all seasons 
of their growth, but especially so when quite 
young and at their flowering period. 
I much prefer those of medium height to the 
very dwarf ones, as the yield is so much more 
abundant, though in some cases owing to 
various circumstances the taller ones cannot be 
well accommodated ; and when this is the case 
no better variety exists for the purpose than 
Carters’ Little Marvel as far as my experience 
goes. Among the three best of medium height 
are Carters’ Early Morn, Sutton’s Early Giant 
and Edwin Beckett. The last named is the 
finest for exhibition purposes in addition to 
being of the finest quality. Broad Beans may 
be treated and grown precisely in the same 
way, but when in flower the points of the 
growths must be stopped and abundance of air 
given. We depend on Carters’ Leviathan for 
this sowing. 
French Beans.—These will now require very 
careful nursing to ensure satisfactory results. 
They will need a brisk but moist heat and all 
the light possible during the dull season. Red 
spider must not be allowed to seriously infest 
them, and to avoid this thorough drenchings of 
tepid water must be applied to the foliage 
about nine o’clock in the morning on bright 
days. To keep up a succession sow every fort¬ 
night. 
s Beakale and Rhubarb.— Each of these will 
now force much more readily, and introduce 
fresh batches about every ten days. 
E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Clothing Bare Walls •—There are many 
ways of making bare walls in greenhouses and 
conservatories pleasing to the eye, and the 
present is a good time to take the work in 
hand. Bare walls in these structures are an 
eyesore, and there is no reason why they should 
not be so planted that they form no mean part 
in the general effect of the house. As to the 
mode of procedure, everything depends upon 
the temperature maintained and the aspect of 
the wall. I admit that it is difficult to grow 
certain plants of a climbing nature against 
some walls owing to the small amount of sun 
and light they receive, and in such cases I 
advise covering the whole of the wall surface 
with two inch mesh wire netting, placed about 
three inches from the face of the wall, and 
filling in vith common moss and rich soil. 
There are many plants that will thrive there, 
such as Ferns of sorts, Rex Begonias, Tritonias, 
Lycopodium, and the like, and these should be 
disposed, facing outwards, as the work of filling 
in proceeds. If kept syringed daily, and a 
genial warmth maintained, they will quickly 
establish themselves and present a pleasing 
appearance at all times. Provided tlie wall 
that it is desired to clothe faces south or south¬ 
west, there will be no lack of subjects well 
adapted for furnishing it, provided that the 
other plants in the house do not shade it too 
much. Myrsiphyllum asparagoides is quite 
unique if the temperature never falls below 
45 deg. Roses, Ivy, and zonal Pelargoniums 
are also well adapted for cool houses, and they 
will give good results on almost any aspect. 
Tropaeolum Ball of Fire, if well grown in the 
open during summer, will furnish a bare wall, 
and the flowers are not only among the brightest 
for a display upon the plants, but are invaluable 
for cutting in winter for table decoration. A 
source of much disappointment in growing 
plants against walls may be attributed to 
having too large a body of soil for the roots. 
It should be borne in mind that even when 
plants continue to grow and flower during 
winter the roots are not so active as they would 
be during summer, owing to the short days and 
little sun. Restrict the roots and good results 
will follow, and avoid overcrowding such plants 
during the winter months. K. M. 
Fruit Garden. 
Outdoors. 
The Raspberry. —There never appears a 
drug on well-grown fruit, proving invaluable 
for tarts, jam, and by many much appreciated 
for dessert. As in the case of Currants, there 
is no necessity to make fresh plantations often, 
as they will go on for several years when well 
looked after by an annual mulch of good 
manure and the old fruiting canes removed as 
soon as the crop is cleared. Those intending to 
make new plantations should trench the ground 
2 ft. deep, putting a layer of good manure 
at the bottom as well as between the two spits, 
and if but one row of canes be planted, the 
ground, to a width of 6 ft., should be dug in the 
manner stated. Rows usually run north and 
south, but it is immaterial, I think, so long as 
they get ample space between, 5 ft. or 6 ft. 
being none too far from row to row. Set out 
the planting canes 18 in. to 2 ft. apart, and if 
more than 4 ft. in length tie to stakes, or, better 
still, to straightened galvanised wire, made 
secure at each end of the row to posts 4 in. 
square, with other posts half that size every 
10 ft. to steady the wire. After planting, mulch 
the row, when all will be secure until the end 
of February or early March, when the canes 
must be cut to within a few inches of the 
ground, to throw the whole energy of the stool 
to the formation of suckers for the following 
year’s fruiting. Superlative, Hornet, Garter’s 
Prolific, and Baumforth’s Seedling are the best 
reds, the Guinea, a new Raspberry, the best 
yellow. Plant Belle de Fontenay for autumn 
fruiting, which comes in useful for the kitchen. 
The Loganberry is coming to the fore, 
and may be used as a dessert fruit, and, being a 
strong grower, requires similar treatment to the 
Raspberry ; and the same may be written of 
the Blackberry, the Rathbun and Lacinia- 
tus (the Parsley-leaved variety) being two of 
the best cultivated in this country. 
The Fruit Store. —Examine the fruit 
each week, especially Pears, removing any that 
show signs of decay. Admit a little air on 
bright days to change the atmosphere of the. 
room, but close early in the afternoon. Sec 
that neither mice nor rats molest the fruit, or 
they quickly play havoc and spoil the best 
flavoured varieties. 
