November 18, 1905. 
Indoors. 
Pineapples. —We have been cutting some 
nice Queen fruit during the past month, the 
bright weather of last month being just right 
for this fruit. Careful root waterings are 
necessary from Michaelmas to Ladyday, 
whether among fruiters, successions, or lately 
potted suckers. A steady and not fluctuating 
bottom heat, with a day temperature of 85 deg. 
with sun heat, receding to 65 deg. or a little 
less on frosty nights, will suit those having 
fruit; 5 to 10 deg. less for those resting, also 
suckers. The latter may still be potted up, if 
of any size, on fruiting plants, instead of being 
thrown away ; they will be sure to prove useful 
as successional fruiters. Supply water spar¬ 
ingly to plants that are to be started early in 
the new year. 
Early Permanent Figs.— These may now 
receive attention, and, no matter how treated 
while disbudding in the early season, there is 
always more or less wood that is best dispensed 
with at this date. Some will have reached 
their extremity and have got bare of young- 
wood, others probably too weak to perfect good 
fruit ; on the other hand, should there be extra 
robust growth, the cutting away of these will 
only aggravate the evil. Root pruning as 
previously dealt with is the only remedy, and 
may still be carried out, but would have been 
better done a month back. Reserve short- 
jointed wood for next season’s fruiting, which 
will require no shortening if properly ripened, 
which ought to be under glass after such a hot 
summer as the past. Wash glass, woodwork, 
etc., first, then wash the trees with a mixture 
of soft soap and flowers of sulphur, which will 
remove all trace of red spider, the worst insect 
pest to the Fig. Why so many comparatively 
barren trees are met with' is having too much 
root run. It is surprising the heavy crops that 
can be got from a small area of border properly 
made, which needs to be very firm, with a fair 
amount of lime rubble in the compost, if 
annually top-dressed with rich material after 
pricking away the exhausted surface soil. In 
getting back the trees in position allow ample 
space for young wood, covering bare branches 
with a young growth where possible. When 
closing, start with a night temperature of 
50 deg., using little or no fire heat the first few 
weeks, and syringe the trees morning and early 
afternoons, especially on bright days. 
.James Mayne. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Odontoglossum grande.— One of the oldest 
and certainly one of the most desirable of 
autumn flowering Orchids. _ This species is 
often found more satisfactorily cultivated in an 
ordinary plant stove, where there is no preten¬ 
sion to cultivate Orchids to any great extent, 
than is the case where Orchids are made a 
speciality. In fact, the collections are very few 
and far between where this and its allied 
species, 0. Insleayi, are anything like so exten¬ 
sively included as their merits deserve. Im¬ 
portations almost annually reach this country, 
so that with an abundant supply, and the fact 
of its not being included in the ruling fashion, 
amateurs and those of limited means reap the 
benefit by being enabled to purchase plants for 
a modest outlay of a few shillings. 
Although not requiring the conditions usually 
considered suitable for an ordinary stove or 
East Indian house, they require about five 
degrees higher temperature at all seasons of the 
year than that of the cool or Odontoglossum 
house. The conditions of the intermediate 
j house meet their requirements well, and they 
also grow well under the same conditions as 
those afforded to Cattleyas and their allies. 
THE GARDE KINO WORLD 
The foliage and pseudo-bulbs being of thick 
texture, they take a prolonged season of rest, 
during which season very little root moisture is 
necessary; only sufficient water should be 
given to sustain the normal conditions of the 
pseudo-bulbs and leaves. 
This resting season being through the winter 
months, there is greater possibility of success¬ 
ful cultivation than would be found to be the 
( -N 
OUR WEEKLY PRIZE COM¬ 
PETITIONS. 
General Conditions. —Competitors must 
write on one side of the paper only. Regular 
paid contributors to The Gardening World, 
or other gardening journals, are debarred 
from entering, but occasional contributors 
may compete. The name and address of the 
competitor must appear on each article sent 
for competition. The Editor’s decision is 
final, and he reserves the right to reproduce, 
in any way, any article or photograph sent 
for competition. The conditions applying to 
each competition should be carefully read. 
WEEKLY PRIZES. 
A Prize or Ten Shillings will be given 
for the best paragraph or short article on any 
gardening subject, such as hints of practical 
interest to gardeners, notes on the propaga¬ 
tion or cultivation of flowers, fruits or vege¬ 
tables, eradication of pests, etc. The para¬ 
graph or article must not exceed a column, 
but value rather than length will be con¬ 
sidered in making the award. Mark enve¬ 
lopes “Competition,” and post not later than 
the Monday following date of issue. Entries 
received later than Tuesday (first post) will 
be left over until the following week. 
Two Prizes of Two Shillings and Six¬ 
pence each will be given for the best supple¬ 
mentary replies to questions asked in “ The 
G.W. Enquire Within ” column. These re¬ 
plies should be brief. 
A Prize of Five Shillings will be given 
for the best novel device for saving labour, 
protecting plants, or a garden utensil, which 
reaches us during any week. A rough 
sketch must accompany the brief description. 
- /© - 
RESULTS OF LAST WEEK’S COM 
PETITIONS. 
We have now a la-ge number of artic'es on hand 
in the “KeacUrs’ Competition,” and desire our corre¬ 
spondents to wait a fe ■ weeks before sending more 
articles for this competition, until we can find space to 
1 ublish those already sent us. We shall remind 
'eadets when they can send more competitive article-. 
The o.her competitions are still open. 
The prize in the Readers’ Competition last 
week was awarded to “A. J. Morgan” for 
his article on “ The Cytisus,” p. 869. 
A prize for a supplementary reply was 
awarded to “ L. S. Small” for his article on 
“ Apple and Pear Trees,” p. 869; and 
another to “ G. Waller ” for an article on 
“ Bush of Gynsophila,” p. S70. 
V _/ 
case with plants in active growing condition 
during the winter months. With brighter 
growing conditions there are greater possi¬ 
bilities in the growing of most plants. During 
the growing season a liberal supply of moisture, 
both in the atmosphere and about the roots of 
the plants, is necessary where the conditions 
are bright. Very little shade is necessary for 
these plants. They may be freely syringed over¬ 
head when the outside conditions are favour¬ 
able. The flowers are produced in racemes, 
which make their appearance soon after the 
pseudo-bulb commences to form, and flower 
before the latter reaches maturity. 
The potting compost should consist of fibrous 
879 
brown peat and chopped Sphagnum moss in 
about equal proportions. It a small proportion 
, partly-decayed oak leaves beadded theywill 
be found advantageous ; where leaves are u-ed 
some rough sand or finely-brol bouhf 
be added to render the compost porous. The 
pots used should be just sufficiently lar-e t< • 
contain the plants comfortably, and should be 
hlled to about one-third their depth with 
chopped Bracken Fern roots ; the latter are 
prelerable to broken crocks, beiDg much 
warmer, and roots will be found growing into 
it, where in the use of broken crocks the points 
frequently die immediately they come in contact 
with the crock, and they thus serve no further 
purpose to the benefit of the plants. Re-potting 
is best done when the new roots make their 
appearance, but owing to the fact of so little 
water requirement for a good part of the year, 
the compost may be retained in good condition 
for successive seasons. The plants should thus 
not be disturbed more frequently than is abso¬ 
lutely necessary. The surface Moss may need 
annual replenishing ; this may be done at the 
commencement of the growing season. 
H. J. Chapman. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
Although we may not yet experience any 
frosts sufficiently severe to injure any shrubs it 
is advisable to afford these a little protection 
in good time, so that they may be prepared 
for a cold spell when it comes. * It is well to 
remember that a very little trouble spent in 
affording a covering will render many very 
beautiful subjects quite safe. For wall shrubs 
a mat is generally sufficient, which can be tied 
neatly over the branches, but some bracken or 
straw should be placed over the roots and 
round the collar. This can be kept in position 
by driving pegs in the ground, and stretching 
some string to each. For bushy shrubs bracken 
is also excellent material, and, if necessarv, the 
branches should be drawn together first, and 
then three sticks placed round, tying this at 
the top over the centre of the plant. The 
material can then be placed round the roots 
and stems, and by winding string a few times 
round the sticks it will be prevented from 
blowing out. 
Bush Roses.—Many of the best of these 
which belong to the Tea and Hybrid Tea 
section, although hardy, are liable to be in¬ 
jured by severe weather, especially on heavy, 
wet soils, and either bracken or straw answers 
well for giving these the necessary protection. 
Although they are pruned hard down in spring 
the best results follow if the last season's 
growth is preserved through the winter, and 
by placing covering over the ground and be¬ 
tween the growths this will be achieved. 
Standard Roses should also receive a little 
attention, and the best way to treat them is 
by tying up the branches closely together, and 
cover with some clean long straw, which should 
be fastened with string to keep it in position. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenbam House Gardens, Eistree, 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
Beautiful Edgings—How to finish off the 
front of a herbaceous border is often a matter 
which necessitates much consideration, and 
though there is probably nothing more suit¬ 
able or that looks better than a good width ot 
well kept turf, many have not the room or 
the facilities for this. Brick and tile edgings 
are often used, especially in cottagers’ flower 
borders, and when clothed with Pinks, as they 
frequently are, a very good finish is made. 
One of the best methods that I am acquainted 
with, and one that gives a great deal of variety 
