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THE GARDENING WORLD 
November 18, 1905. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may cover 
any branch of gardening. Questions should be as 
brief as possible and written on one side of the 
paper only; a separate sheet of paper should be 
used for each question. Readers are invited to 
give their fellow gardeners the benefit of their 
'experience by sending supplementary replies—see j. 
Prize Competitions. | 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to prepare 
and forward to us a rough outline drawing or plan 
of their gardens, indicating the position of beds 
and luwns, the character and height oj the jcnce 
or vMl ; position of vegetable garden, orchard, 
etc. The north side of the garden and any over - 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It should 
also be stated whether the garden is fled or on a 
declivity, and all large trees should be marked. 
Particulars of the nature oj the soil will also 
help us to give satisfactory replies. When such 
plans are received they ivill be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and will be 
consulted by the Editor whenever an enquiry is sent. 
Name of Chrysanthemum. 
I wonder if you could enlighten me as to the 
name of the Chrysanthemum enclosed. 1 have 
asked several gardeners with no result. ^ It came 
from a cutting which I had given me. Could you 
also inform me if it is a.large kind? This one 
came off a branch of about twenty blooms. I 
should be much obliged if you could help me 
through your splendid paper. (F. A. It.) 
As far as we can determine from the specimen 
you sent us, it is the variety Tuxedo, one of the 
best- varieties hitherto in cultivation of that colour. 
It is a market variety, and never, so far as we 
are aware, grows to large size, nor do we 
think it capable of being grown much over 5m. 
or 6in. in diameter, with the form of the bloom 
•you sent us. It is largely grown for market pur¬ 
poses, and may be had till well up to Christmas. 
Preserving Walnuts- 
Through the-medium of your interesting paper, 
will you kindly inform me of the best way to 
preserve Walnuts to keep them from going mouldy 
and from getting dry. (Ignoramus.) 
When Walnuts become mouldy while being 
kept for late use, it usually means 'that they have 
not been carefully dried before storing them 
away. A good old-fashioned plan is to have 
them well dried in the sun for a day or two after 
they have been shelled. The shelling process is 
also somewhat troublesome if the nuts are 
gathered before they are perfectly ripe. They 
should really be allowed to hang on the trees until 
they fall of their own accord, and. in such cases 
the nuts will drop out of the husk while falling, 
and be cleaner than if the nuts had been gathered 
before they were ripe, and then beaten to make 
them leave the shell. In private establishments 
this ought not to be a difficult matter, especially 
if the trees are upon grass so that the nuts will 
remain clean when they fall. After being ex¬ 
posed to the sun for two days they may be stored 
on the bare shelves hi some airy room for a short 
period until they pass off their superfluous 
moisture. They can then be packed away in jars 
or boxes amongst dry silver sand, which not 
only improves the colour of the shell, but pre¬ 
vents the kernel from being dried up. With- 
careful treatment of this kind Walnuts have been 
kept good for twelve months. A simpler method 
has been employed by growers in this country 
for the supply of the London markets, but that 
would indicate that they kept them only for 
a limited period, as we presume most of them 
would be sold about Christmas. The method pur¬ 
sued was to dry them first and then store them in 
layers of moderate depth in dry cellars. These 
layers were then covered with straw, the prin¬ 
cipal object being to exclude frost, sun, and ram. 
Unless you have a very large quantity, the method 
first mentioned would be most suitable in your 
case. • • 
Qualifications for an Estate]Assistant. 
Being a weekly subscriber to your journal, The 
Gardening World, I would esteem it a very 
great kindness if you would tender your advice as 
to whether you think I am competent with the 
undermentioned qualifications for an estate fore¬ 
man or estate steward. I was apprenticed to 
gardening, having had practical experience in in¬ 
door and outdoor work, especially in Vines, 
Melons, Cucumbers, Tomatos, Peaches, Nec¬ 
tarines, Strawberries and general vegetable forc¬ 
ing, for which I have excellent references from 
Mr.' Haines, Coleshill House, Berks; Mr. 
Richards, Mariston, South Devon ; and Col. Sir 
John Wallington. 1 have also a practical expe¬ 
rience in a large steam sawing and planing mill, 
being thoroughly conversant with the conversion 
of heavy round and square timber, also with the 
machinery of joiners’ work. 1 understand the 
general routine of engine and boiler work, making 
steam joints, the speeding of shafting and gear¬ 
ing. I may also mention I am thoroughly 
qualified in measuring timber, both standing and 
felled, also practical experience in tree felling, 
having reference from Mr. Wills, 'Superintendent 
of Carpenters and Sawyers, South Eastern Rail¬ 
way. 1 have two certificates for building con¬ 
struction and drawing from the South Ken¬ 
sington Science and Art Department; also refer¬ 
ence for same from Mr. Coombs, Government 
Inspector of Building Works, Woolwich Arsenal. 
Will you please answer through your medium? 
(Frank Watmough.) 
According to your statement of qualifications, 
together with the references you have received 
and the certificates, you ought to be qualified for 
such a post from an educational point of view, 
provided you have mastered those sciences suffi¬ 
ciently not only to remember them, but to turn 
them to practical account when placed in a situa¬ 
tion. When you say assistant foreman, it implies 
a deal, and unless you have previously held a 
similar position, it would be difficult to say 
whether you were qualified or not, as so much 
depends upon personal character, energy, and 
abilities when turning them to practical account. 
When you speak of assistant steward, that 
modifies the case, inasmuch as if placed under a 
master you would largely be guided by his wishes 
and instructions. If you could find such a post, 
it would, no doubt, be of great advantage by 
enabling you to conduct work of a similar kind 
when placed in a position of responsibility. In 
various occupations we have found that it is not 
always the most highly educated man who 
succeeds best, but that it is largely determined 
by the personal character and capabilities of the 
individual himself ; but if you are in any way 
naturally qualified for such a post, a position 
under head steward would afford you the best 
opportunity possible for rising in the profession. 
Use of Celeriac. 
I saw some large Turnip-looking roots at the 
vegetable- show recently, and was told they were 
Celeriac. Would you be good enough to say what 
is the manner of using them? (A. E. D.) 
The purpose to which Celeriac is put depends 
largely upon the customs prevailing in private 
establishments and the likings of the owners. The 
usual purpose to which Celeriac is put is as an 
ingredient of salads. The roots are cleaned, pared 
and finely sliced for this purpose. The root is also 
employed for flavouring and for cooking in a 
variety of ways. 'Some people like the flavour of 
Celery in soups and the roots might be used for 
such a purpose, especially after the fresh leaves 
of Celery in the open have been destroyed by 
severe frost. 
Regular Supply of Vegetables. 
Will you be good enough to advise me what 
kinds of Cabbage, Greens, Sprouts, Savoys, 
Cauliflower and Broccoli to obtain and the time to 
sow to ensure a regular supply all the year 
round? My garden is in a somewhat exposed 
position in South-west Lancashire. Of course, I 
shall grow Peas and Beans with some root crops, 
but the Brassicas are what I shall rely upon as 
the chief product. (P.) 
Of the above number of vegetables which you 
describe Cabbages may be sown twice a year in 
order to afford a regular supply. It is well in 
some instances to make two sowings in the 
autumn in order to make sure of getting plants 
of a suitable size to stand the winter in the open 
with what protection you can give them. The 
proper time for sowing Cabbages would be 
August 1st and 15th. The young plants so raised 
would have to be planted in their permanent 
quarter’s when of suitable size if your climate 
warrants the belief that they will stand through 
the winter thus exposed. If they do not stand 
the winter in the open you must protect them in 
cold frames or have sashes placed over the beds 
in order to afford the neaessary shelter. The 
kinds that might be sown this time should be 
early ones, such as Ellam’s Early, Early Offen- 
ham, and Wheeler’s Imperial. Cabbages may 
again be sown in March or April in order to give 
a succession to the autumn-sown ones, which 
should be ready for use in late spring and early 
summer. For March sowing you could employ 
Little Pixie, Early Dwarf \ ork, St. John’s Day 
and other kinds which you may fancy. Those 
which we have given are of small size, so that 
they can be planted relatively closely and be use¬ 
ful for the table. The other varieties of greens 
you mention could be sown at the same time as 
Cabbages are sown in spring. Usually, one sowing 
is sufficient, and whether another would be neces¬ 
sary would depend upon what ground you have to 
spare for a second planting. Cauliflowers may be 
sown under glass in February in order to give the 
earliest supply. The seedlings will have to be 
transplanted into frames, hardened off and planted 
out as early as the weather will permit, lor this 
sowing, Early London, Snowball, and Magnum 
Bonum may be employed. In the spring-time, 
say in March, you can then sow Early London, 
Walcheren, and Autumn Giant. These will give 
a succession to the varieties sown under glass in 
February. Broccoli may be sown in March or 
April. It merely differs from Cauliflowers in the 
varieties, being hardier and thus able to stand the 
winter in the open, whereas Cauliflower can only 
be expected to produce a safe supply from early 
summer to the end of November. It depends, 
however, upon the district in which they are 
grown. You speak of your garden being exposed, 
but that should not be detrimental to the welfare 
of Cabbages, provided the place is not exposed to 
frequent bigh gales of wind. You must remember, 
also, that a continuous supply is, to some extent, 
dependent upon the area of ground which you 
have at disi>o.sal, and the number of people in the 
household. That is a question, of course, that 
will have to be settled by yourself. As far as 
gardening is concerned, all that you require to do 
is to get an early variety or two of certain 
vegetables and a late variety or two. The rest 
will largely depend upon the extent of ground to 
be cropped. During winter you will have to 
depend chiefly ujion Greens and Brussels Sprouts. 
