November 25, 1905. 
it, and it is regularly clipped to keep it bushy 
| and thick. 
We do not think the tree has been killed 
either by lightning or old age. if there is any 
disease, it must be at the root. We know that 
Beech trees sometimes fail at the root, and the 
tree dies without apparent cause. This, in the 
case of large trees, is sometimes due to long 
continued drought, and sandy soil, but in other 
cases the roots may be in a stagnant medium 
where the continued' moisture prevents them from 
performing their functions. The Beech is a long- 
nved and very hardy tree, but where it thrives 
best is in soil that is heavy and inclined to clay, 
but usually of moderate depth and well drained 
beneath. There is no possibility of curing a 
tree when the roots decay, and ihe best thing 
you can do is to lift the dead trees, have the 
ground well trenched in the gap, and then plant 
some young trees to fill the gap, say trees about 
3 feet or 4 feet high. If carefully lifted and 
planted, these would soon make good the defects 
in the hedge. While the ground is being 
trenched, it would be well to know the condition 
of the sub-soil whether it is wet, or, on the other 
hand, of a poor and hungry nature. If wet, a 
drain should be dug along one side of it so as to 
take away the superfluous moisture. If hungry 
1 and poor, get some heavy, loamy soil to take 
the place of the natural material which should 
be conveyed away elsewhere. 
Sprig of Berries. 
No. 1 of the enclosed specimens is, I think, 
one of the Hawthorn tribe, but I would be elad 
| if you could tell me the variety. I am sorry 
not to be able to send any leaves, but this is 
on’y part of a fruiting branch I got a present of. 
I suppose it could be grown from seed in the same 
manner as the common Hawthorn. (C. W- P.) 
The specimen sent us is Crataegus orientalis. 
It makes a small tree about 15 feet high, and can 
, be reproduced from berries or haws in the same 
way as the Hawthorn. You should squeeze them 
1 and clear them from the pulp at once, and then 
■! put the seeds either in pots or boxes in a cold 
frame or in the open ground. In the latter case 
I you should place them where they could lie over 
:i -a year if necessary, as they may or may not 
germinate next, spring. It is usual with the 
common Hawthorn to place the berries in a heap 
in the open for a year in order to allow the pulp 
to decay; hut we presume you have only a few 
berries which you can deal with in the way 
stated. Mark the snot if sown out of doors and 
: exercise patience till the seedlings make their 
appearance. 
Chrysanthemums Going Blind. 
I would be obliged if you would tell me what 
has caused the shoots of my Chrysanthemums, 
this year, to go blind like the one enclosed. The 
varieties I have noticed that have gone this way 
! are George Glenny, Mrs. Rundle, and Nivens. I 
i grow about forty varieties and they have all done 
well except the three named. Is it an insect that 
causes the shoots to stop growing? (C. W. P.) 
An examination of the shoots showed that 
some of the plant bugs, possibly the frog hopper, 
must have been busy on the plants away back 
in August. They had been puna*need while 
still in bud, and after their expansion they show 
the damage greatly enlarged. No doubt, at the 
same time these insects injured the flower-bud 
in the centre of the leaves. This frequently hap¬ 
pens to various Chrysanthemums quite irrespec¬ 
tive of variety. The principal remedy is to keep 
a sharp eye on the plants during July and August 
when these insects are most active. If you find 
frog spittle on the shoots, vou will also find a 
i. grub inside it, and this should be destroyed. If 
, very numerous, it would probably he sufficient 
•• to wash away the spittle by driving water forcibly 
I upon the plants by means of the garden engine or 
syringe. If the grubs are exposed to sunshine 
they soon get killed as they are very tc-r.der- 
skinned. A good outlook should also he kept 
for the perfect insect and have it destroyed 
if you can 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Liquid Manure for Roses. 
Would newly-planted Roses derive any advan¬ 
tage from liquid manure applied to the soil during 
winter? I know it gives good results in summer. 
(N. W. D.) 
Liquid manure may be applied with great ad¬ 
vantage to Roses even in winter if the soil is 
at all holding, as it should be for the purpose 
of growing Roses. We should not apply it to 
plants that have recently been lifted or trans¬ 
planted, because the roots, being in a mutilated 
condition, and the soil loose, the liquid would 
most likely be more prejudicial to their welfare 
than otherwise. In the case of old Roses already 
well established, you can apply the manure with 
advantage at any time during winter, and the 
noil will retain the valuable and feeding pro¬ 
perties of the* manure. 
Name of Plant for Edging-. 
Please let me know through the pages of The 
Gardening World what the enclosed plant is and 
if it is hardy. Would it be suitable for making 
edgings to garden paths? (M: Sage.) 
Ihe plant is generally known as Lavender 
Cotton, and the botanical name is Santolina 
Chamaecyparissus. It is perfectly hardy in most 
parts of this country, except where very much 
exposed to severe frost and wind. There is no 
reason why it might not be employed as edgings 
to garden paths, but if the soil is at all fertile 
it would require trimming more than once in a 
season to keep it within bounds. The clipping or 
pruning would, however, have the effect of 
encouraging fresh growth, and that would he 
effective on account of its white or grey colour. 
We should not subject it to the same close prun¬ 
ing as Box, but should prefer to let it grow some¬ 
what more freely and merely regulate it with the 
knife now and again by cutting back the more 
rampant shoots so as to preserve an even outline 
and prevent it from getting straggling and 
irregular. 
Handy Stand. 
The designer of the handy stand figured on p. 
837 was Mr. R. C. Hammond, and the omission 
of his name at the end of the article was due 
to some oversight. 
Palm Leaves Dying. 
M. Thomas would be pleased if the Editor 
would say why the Palm leaf enclosed dies off at 
the tips and finally altogether. It is grown in 
a room near the window, and is well looked after 
with water. 
It is' of quite common occurrence for the leaves 
of Palms in rooms to become brown and die away 
at the tips. Plants obtainable from the growers 
have usually been brought along hurriedly in 
houses with a high temperature and steaming 
with moisture. This makes the plant soft, so 
that when brought into a room where the atmo¬ 
sphere is always dry the leaves suffer, and the 
tips being the thinnest and less able to bear the 
dry atmosphere they begin to die away there. If 
you have a greenhouse or conservatory where the 
plants can be kept under more genial conditions 
during the summer months it would harden their 
tissues, so that they would stand better ivhen 
taken into a room in autumn and winter. Few of 
tine Palms are well adapted for keeping constantly 
in rooms for the reasons just stated, and also 
because the heat in the room is not. sufficient to 
start a fresh growth of leaves. During the wannest 
part of summer it is certainly high enough, but 
the temperature ought to be higher in the early 
months of the year, so as to enable the Palms to 
push up fresh leaves. This, however, is a matter 
which cannot he remedied in dwelling-houses. 
Raspberry for Small Garden. 
What is the best Raspberry you would recom¬ 
mend for a small garden, stating also the best 
time to plant, and the preparation of the soil? 
(M. S. Hill.) 
The variety Superlative is usually regarded as 
the most, fruitful and best all-round for general 
cultivation. It would therefore answer the pur¬ 
911 
pose in a small garden, and should Ire planted in 
a situation where the soil remains fairly moist. 
A little shade would be no disadvantage in keep¬ 
ing the plants cool and moist. You can plant it 
at any time after the leaves have fallen, hut you 
should have the ground prepared previously, so 
that it will have settled down firmly before you 
commence to plant. The soil should be dug” or 
trenched 18in. to 2ft. deep, working in plenty 
of well-decayed cow manure between the layers 
of soil. After the sod has settled down, say in 
the course of ten days, you can then plant the 
Raspberries in lines at 3ft. apart and 4ft. to 5ft. 
between the lines. You cannot expect to get any 
fruit the first year, so that the canes should be 
cut down within 18in. of the ground. That will 
give greater encouragement to the production of 
strong suckers next summer that will make fruit¬ 
ing canes. There is another method of planting 
them which is very popular with many gardeners— 
namely, to stretch wires along the lines and train 
the canes upon these. In such a case they might 
be planted 2ft. apart, so as to cover the wires 
at regular distances apart by retaining only a 
sufficient number of the canes when pruning in 
■winter. 
Single Chrysanthemums. 
The medium-sized flowers most take my fancy, 
so that as I want to increase my stock please 
name some singles that would give variety, and 
much oblige. (A Constant Reader.) 
We think that the following would suit your 
purpose, namely. Annie Holden, primrose yellow; 
Miss Rose, bright rose, fading to pink; Mary 
Anderson, white, or slightly tinted with pink oc¬ 
casionally, if grown in the open air; Belle of 
Weybridge, bronzy-crimson; Mabel Goacher, 
white ; Ladysmith, bright rosy-pink ; Scarlet Gem, 
scarlet; Paris Daisy, dwarf, with white flowers ; 
1 ellow Jane, light yellow ;' Lady Daisy, a small 
white flower; Edith Pagram, pink, small, and 
rather late; and Christmas Cheer, white. 
Planting Ixias. 
Last summer I was taken with the beauty of 
the flowers of Ixias, and ordered some bulbs. I 
understand they are not quite hardy. When 
should the bulbs he planted, and what depth 
should they be put in the soil? (R. M. Hender¬ 
son.) 
They might have been planted earlier, but the 
present is still in good time. You should select a 
warm, sheltered position, and a light and sandy 
soil if planted in the open. It is not very often, 
however, that bulbs are now planted in the open 
to begin with, for the simple reason that a suffi¬ 
ciently sheltered position cannot always be got 
for them. The difficulty with Ixias, as with many 
other Cape bulbs, is that they start growing too 
early for our climate, especially if we get aspell 
of mild weather to he succeeded by hard frost. 
This destroys the foliage, and thereby cripples 
the bulbs. If you have any considerable number 
of bulbs, we should advise you to make up a bed 
in a cold frame, using about 6in. of soil, which 
should consist of mellow, fibrous loam, mixed with 
about a half of leaf mould and sand. This com¬ 
post or mixture could be made up or mixed before 
putting it into the frame. This could then be spread 
equally over the frame, and trodden down to 
make it fairly firm. The bulbs, under these con¬ 
ditions might be 3in. under the surface, but in 
the open a little deeper. The sash of the frame 
might be left open when the weather is sufficiently 
favourable, without severe frost, heavy rain, or 
snow. This would tend to keep the bulbs at rest 
until the weather becomes finer. Indeed, it is 
possible to elevate the sash upon bars of wood, 
so as to throw the rain off and allow plenty of air 
night and day. As the plants come into - flower 
you can then shelter them by means of thesashes 
as it becomes necessary, according to the state of 
the weather. Some people grow them and flower 
them in pots, much in the same way as Hyacinths 
or Tulips. Others grow them in pots until they 
reach the flowering stage or nearly, and then 
plant them in the open ground, forming a bed of 
them in May or June, when the weather becomes 
settled. Yqu can then enjoy the full beauty ot 
them until they go out of flower, when the bed 
