969 
December 23, 1905. 
TUB GARDENING WORLD . 
curious pale blue and purple flowers^ should 
also be included where the most striking and 
desirable hardy border plants are sought alter. 
A. hi. 1 • 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Calceolaria amplexicaulis.— Sometimes one 
meets with this excellent species in flower- 
garden arrangements, but seldom under glass. 
The plant is a robust grower, and attains to 
a height of 2ft, or 3ft. Its lemon-coloured 
flowers are borne profusely on arching stems 
well above the leafage, and when well grown 
it is a charming subject for the greenhouse. 
Cuttings strike readily in autumn, and these 
should be inserted several in a pot and placed 
. in a close frame. When rooted, keep on a 
shelf near the roof-glass of the cool green¬ 
house for the winter. Early in February pot 
off singly into 60’s and grow on gently in a 
like position until genial weather occurs, when 
a frame will answer best. One more shift 
into 48’s or 32’s will be necessary, and the 
leading shoots should be kept pinched for a 
few weeks to induce a bushy habit. This 
species is more tender than the shrubby kinds, 
and will not withstand cold-frame culture 
during winter. 
Pelargoniums —If not already done, these 
should be finally shifted into the pots in 
which the plants are to flower—viz., 32’s. Pinch 
out the points of the strongest shoots, and 
rub off all weakly ones. When well re-estab¬ 
lished, afford frequent applications of liquid 
manure, and keep the plants near the glass to 
prevent undue drawing of the young growths. 
These plants are well known to be liable to. 
attacks of green aphis, and frequent fumiga¬ 
tions will be necessary to keep them in check. 
Bouvardias. —These should now be partially 
rested by withholding water, and a.s the foli¬ 
age decays lay the plants upon their sides 
under a temperate house stage for a few 
weeks. Repotting should take place in Feb¬ 
ruary, and the plants introduced to a genial 
warmth to break them. 
Sweet Peas. —This is a good time to sow 
seed for producing plants for early flowering 
under glass in advance of the earliest out of 
doors. The seeds may be sown five in a 60- 
sized pot, or in boxes, using light, rich soil. 
Repot and stake early in the year, and aim 
at keeping the plants dwarf and robust, 
avoiding the use of fire-heat as much as 
possible. K. M. 
Fruit Garden. 
Outdoors. 
Gooseberries. —In many gardens the birds 
prove so troublesome in knocking out the 
buds during winter that the pruning is delayed 
as late as possible, with the idea that there is 
sure to be enough left for a crop ; but nothing 
is sure if they once make a start on them. 
The better policy is to get the necessary 
pruning done now, and devise some means to 
prevent the tits or sparrows from meddling 
with them. Here we either syringe the 
bushes with clear water and dust them while 
wet with soot and lime that has been passed 
through quite a fine-meshed sieve, or make 
the same into a liquid with the addition of a 
pint of quassia extract to every 4 gallons and 
syringe each bush with it, choosing a bright 
day for the job, this to be repeated twice or 
even thrice during the next few months if 
found to be washed off. Others rely on black 
cotton wound over the tops of the bushes, 
which certainly scares the birds to some 
extent and is easily cut in spring with a pair 
of scissors or a sharp knife as soon as all 
danger has passed and food getting more 
varied and plentiful for the feathered tribe. 
Study the habit of each bush, and thin out 
accordingly, as some grow erect, while other 
varieties are more inclined to spread or of a 
pendulous nature. The finest fruits are borne 
all along the shoots made the past summer, 
but require a distance of 8in. to lOin. from 
each other so that the hand can be easily 
worked while gathering. Spur back to within 
an inch of their origin all surplus growths ; 
those reserved should be slightly shortened if 
over 18in. in length. Out clean out all shoots 
emanating from the base, and here and there 
an exhausted shoot if the bushes are of much 
age, and reserve a stock of cuttings, which 
should be cut close to a joint, and all eyes 
except three or four at the top cut out, so as 
to have a clean stem of 6in., each cutting to 
be lOin. or 12in. in length when finished, and 
set in the ground 6in. apart. Currants re- 
- G.W. - 
PRIZE 
COMPETITIONS 
General Conditions.—C ompetitors must 
write on one side of the paper only. Kegular 
paid contributors to The Gardening World, 
or other gardening journals, are debarred 
from entering, but occasional contributors 
may eoniDete. The name and address of the 
competitor must appear on each article sent 
for competition. The Editor’s decision is 
final, and he reserves the right to reproduce, 
in any way, any article or photograph sent 
for competition. The conditions applying to 
each competition should be carefully read. 
WEEKLY 
PRIZES 
A Prize of Ten Shillings will be given 
for the best paragraph or short article on any 
gardening subject, such as hints of practical 
interest to gardeners, notes on the propaga¬ 
tion or cultivation of flowers, fruits or vege¬ 
tables, eradication of pests, etc. The para¬ 
graph or article must not exceed a column, 
but value rather than length will be con¬ 
sidered in making the award. Mark enve¬ 
lopes “Competition," and post not later than 
the Monday fol'owing date of issue. Entries 
received later than Tuesday (first post) will 
be left over until the following week. 
Two Prizes of Two Shillings and Six¬ 
pence each will be given for the best supple¬ 
mentary replies to questions asked in “The 
G.W. Enquire Within" column. These re¬ 
plies should be brief. 
A Prize of Five Skillings will be given 
for the best novel device for saving labour, 
protecting plants, or a garden utensil which 
reaches us during any week. A rough sketch 
must accompany the brief description. 
RESULTS OF 
LAST WEEK’S COMPETITIONS 
We have now a la r ge number of articles on 
hand in the ‘ 1 Readers’ Competition,*’ and 
desire our correspondents to wait a few weeks 
before sending more articles for this compe¬ 
tition, until we can find space to publish those 
already sent us. We shall remind readers when 
they can send more competitive articles. The 
other competitions are still open. 
The prize in the Readers' Competition last 
week was awarded to “ A. C W." for his 
article on “ The Viue and Its Enemies,’’ p. 9til. 
A prize for a supplementary. reply was 
awarded to “ H. Morris" for his article on 
“ Fruit Trees and Vegetables,” p. 959; and 
another to “J. R. B." for his article on 
“Renewing Pinks," p. 960. 
quire similar treatment except the Black, 
whose buds should not be cut out, as strong 
growths from the base must be encouraged. 
Raspberries. — Get the canes tied in 
position; 4in. to 6in. apart is a good dis¬ 
tance, according to strength of cane. Defer 
shortening the tops until March, but any 
small, weak canes may be cut clean out. Put 
on a top-dressing of rich manure after the 
tying has been finished. 
Figs. — The recent frosts do not appear to 
have crippled many growths, which show that 
they are well ripened, but it will be advisable 
in cold districts to unfasten the branches so 
that they can be expeditiously protected in 
case of severe weather setting in, dried 
bracken being useful for the work, or straw 
bands, and some use mats. 
Indoors. 
Bottling Grapes. —All remaining bunches 
should now be cut, choosing a bright day if 
possible for conveying the Grapes to the ap¬ 
pointed Grape-room. Clear glass bottles are 
the best, so that it can be seen at a glance 
when more water is required, as the lateral 
absorbs a good drop the first week or ten days. 
Nearly fill these ginger-beer or soda-water 
bottles with clean water, and put in a piece 
or two of charcoal to keep it fresh, and cut 
each lateral, when possible, long enough to 
push into the bottle, leaving about 6in. of 
wood above the bunch, trimming back all 
lateral growth. In case the basal end is not 
long enough to reach the water, the terminal 
end may be inserted, as I find the Grapes keep 
just as well, so it must absorb the water. 
Make quite sure no decaying berries are left 
on the bunch, and examine them once a week 
while they remain in the bottles; a tempera¬ 
ture of 45 degs., more or less, according to 
outside conditions, will be conducive to good 
keeping. Throw the house open, and within a 
week prune the vines, the after-treatment 
being identical with that of previous vineries 
as regards washing, cleaning, and attention to 
the borders. 
Pineapples. —These must be given all the 
light possible, and no more water at the root 
than is absolutely necessary to maintain the 
swelling fruits in a plump condition, an over¬ 
dose at this time of year causing the fruit to 
go black in the centre. The batch of Queens 
to be started early in the coming year must 
not be allowed to get dust-drv, or they may 
show fruit prematurely and prove worthless; 
wait until the days begin to lengthen, when 
more bottom heat can be applied. This, with 
more water at the root after resting a few 
weeks, will usually encourage well-rooted 
plants to push up a fruit. Be lenient, too, 
with atmospheric moisture until well on in 
January and the sun is daily gaining power. 
James Mayxe. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Phaius.— In many of our prominent Orchid 
collections the species and hybrids of this 
genus do not receive the attention their 
merits deserve. P. grandifolius. P. Wallicliii, 
and allied species have been in cultivation for 
a very long period ; they are often included 
and grown successfully with the usual occu¬ 
pants of an ordinary stove house, even where 
there is no pretension to grow Orchids. Some 
of the best specimens of Phaius I have seen 
have been cultivated under such conditions, 
and I think this sufficient illustration to dis¬ 
pense with any contention that any special 
facilities for, or knowledge of, their require- 
