THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 23, 1905. 
9?0 
ments is essential to their successful cuitna- 
tion. 
The hybrids that have been derived from 
the above section, intercrossed with the Mada¬ 
gascar species P. simulans (better known in 
gardens as P. tuberculosus) and P. Humblottii, 
have yielded a remarkable race of hybrids— 
perhaps such a desirable acquisition to our 
Orchid houses as will be difficult to surpass in 
any other class of hybrid Orchids. Ihere can 
be'no question but that, when suitable situa¬ 
tions are found and proper treatment afforded 
to suit their requirements, there are no 
Orchids more easily or successfully cultivated. 
I have tried the plants under several and 
varied conditions of temperatures, from the 
hottest stove to the intermediate and Cattleya 
house conditions. Although they have been 
quite satisfactory under most conditions, I 
consider that the intermediate house is the 
best. 
I may be asked, Why, then, do so many fail 
to grow these hybrids satisfactorily ? I can 
reply that in a number of places in this dis¬ 
trict, where there is no special pretension to 
Orchid culture, the plants do equally satis¬ 
factorily to that we have experienced here, 
which, I may state, is practically the home of 
these hybrids, for very few are in cultivation 
that did not originate from here. X might 
add that I think probably failure to cultivate 
has been methods of treatment. For, like 
P. simulans, P. Norman and its allied kinds 
should not have the resting period so 
rigidly enforced as that which generally 
follows in the case of P. grandifolius. I would 
suggest the plants should be rested in cooler 
conditions rather than attempt to dry to 
excess. Potting should be annually done im¬ 
mediately the plants start into growth after 
flowering in the spring. 
The P. Humblottii section of hybrids, such 
as P. Cooksoniae, P. Phoebe, P. oakwoodiense, 
P. Ruby, P. Chapmanii, etc., I consider to be 
superior in every way to the P. tuberculosus 
hybrids. They are far more robust in con¬ 
stitution, and do most satisfactorily in the 
intermediate-house conditions. This section 
recommends itself to the attention of 
amateurs, for it would be difficult to find 
plants that can be more easily cultivated. 
There are not more than two or three of the 
above-mentioned kinds in commerce, but 
these may be procured at a reasonable out¬ 
lay. Like P. Humblottii, they remain for 
some time in a dormant state after flowering, 
and should have sufficient moisture only to 
retain them in a normal state. As soon as 
new growth appears repotting should be at¬ 
tended to and growing conditions afforded. 
The flower spikes of P. Norman are now 
making their appearance, and they must have 
every encouragement. H. J. Chapman. 
The Eably Flobists. —The “ Willow ” earth 
and the abnormal quantities of manure used 
in composts by the early florists has, says a 
writer, often excited the surprise, and not 
infrequently the contempt, of moderns; but 
in the matter of these mdnttrial earths we 
might well take a lesson from them. When 
used it was never less than two years eld, and 
had been during that time most Carefully 
prepared. As to “ Willow ” earth, it was by 
no means a necessity. Any kind of mould 
formed of decayed wood was esteemed, but 
none so highly as that of the Willow, which, 
it may be said, enjoyed a European reputa¬ 
tion, and was, in fact, used by Continental 
florists before we find it mentioned in Eng¬ 
land. 
OUR . . . 
Northern Gardens. 
Flower Garden and 
Pleasure Ground. 
Gladioli.—Where these were lifted in a parti¬ 
ally ripened condition and placed in sand in a 
shed as recommended here, they will now be 
thoroughly ripened and should be removed 
from the sand, the stems cleared away, and the 
bulbs cleaned and stored in a cool, dry place, 
where frost is excluded. 
Dahlias.—Take the chance of a wet or 
stormy day and overhaul the tubers, cutting 
the fibrous roots hard back to the tubers and 
removing any decaying tubers. , 
Lenten Roses. —As the Christmas Roses go 
out of bloom, the frame or lights that were 
employed to cover them should be placed over 
a portion of the Lenten Roses to facilitate 
their flowering, and protect them from severe 
weather ; the white varieties are generally the 
most acceptable for cutting. 
Wallflower. —If severe frost sets in without 
a fall of snow Wallflowers wall be greatly bene¬ 
fited by having some Spruce twigs stuck in 
amongst the plants ; I have seen a planting 
thus treated come safely through a spell of 
hard weather, whilst others not so treated 
perished. 
Conservatory and Greenhouse. 
Schizanthus. —These must be kept closely 
pinched in order to induce a bushy habit. 
More especially is this the case where only one 
plant is grown in a pot. 
Mignonette.— Some of the stronger plants 
will now be pushing away, and should be 
pinched. As they push away each plant should 
also be furnished with a short, neat stake, and 
tied to it. If a fairly rich compost was used it 
will be better to withhold stimulants till more 
active growth commences after the New Year. 
Climbers. —Many climbers should now be 
pruned, and the growth regulated according to 
the species and the condition of the plants. I 
refer to Clematises, Passifloras, Tacsonias, 
T uchsias, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Loniceras, 
etc. If any of them are found to be infested 
with pests they should now be got rid of with 
the aid of some of the many insecticides now 
at the gardener’s disposal. Where necessary 
they should also get a top dressing. C. C. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Saladings. —This is not exactly the season 
in which the demand for salads is heaviest; but 
at the same time many of us have to keep up 
supplies the whole season. Even where the 
demand for salads is not urgent it is well to be 
able to place on the table such tilings as 
Mustard and Cress, on occasion, at anytime 
during the winter. The best method to adopt 
to ensure good supplies of these useful salad 
plants is to sow in boxes of light rich material 
at intervals of a week or so. Place the boxes 
on a shelf i n the stove, or warm pit, and in a 
very short, time it is fit for use. The advantage 
of sowing inboxes is that they maybe removed 
to a lower temperature, so as to keep them 
from going past too fast. 
M inter salads, especially in hard weather, 
H re difficult to maintain. When the weather is 
M j en we can draw on frame supplies of Lettuce 
and Endive. It is a good plan to lift and plant 
Endive in any out of the way corner in a shed, 
or such like place, for then the leaves get 
blanched and tender. Chicory I have men¬ 
tioned in previous notes as being a most im¬ 
portant winter salading plant. Blanch in per¬ 
fect darkness, using moderate heat. 
Winter Cucumbers require very great care 
and daily attention. It is a big mistake to 
maintain too high a temperature, at least if we 
wish to get anything like a steady supply for 
any length of time. A steady, genial tempera¬ 
ture of 70 deg. at night is ample, unless where 
several houses can be given up to Cucumber 
culture. In this latter case another 10 deg. 
can be allowed, and the different houses can be 
planted so as to come into bearing in succession. 
The daily attention to this crop is imperative, 
or else nothing but failure will result. Keep 
the plants clean, and thin out all unnecessary 
shoots. Less moisture is of course required in 
dull, damp weather, but a dry atmosphere is 
never to be allowed. 
Routine work consists in manuring, digging, 
and trenching, as the weather permits. In 
inclement weather pay every attention to the 
root stores. Go carefully over Onions, Potatos, 
and such like, removing all decaying bulbs or 
tubers. Clear out the seed drawers, and take 
notes of any seeds that may be worth keeping, 
so as not to duplicate later on when oi dering a 
fresh supply. C. Blau:. 
Preston, Linlithgow. 
EPIPHYTAL 
ORCHIDS. 
NOTES ON RE-POTTING. 
There can he no set time fpr repotting or 
basketing Orchids. There are, however, two 
main seasons in which the whole of the plants 
should be gone through, and those which re¬ 
quire it shifted into new pots or baskets as 
the case may be. Two sizes larger is the 
general rule, but in no case should an Orchid 
Be repotted unless it is needed. September 
and February are favourable times for a 
general overhauling of the collection. 
Cattleyas and Laelias, if any require it. can 
be safely shifted any time during the summer. 
Good fibrous peats, sphagnum moss, Oak, or 
Beech leaves, twelve months old, and crocks, 
used in equal portions, is an excellent compost. 
The Brazilian species should be kept rather 
dry after repotting until they start freely into 
growth. Thus treated they root better if kept 
in a moist atmosphere after potting. The end 
of September is a good time for overhauling 
cool-house jilants such as Odontoglossums, 
Masdevallias, Disas, and various Cypripe- 
diums. In potting, the pots should be half 
filled with clean crocks. 
The Orchids of the East Indian house, such 
as . Aerides, Saccolabiums and Vandas, 
should be gone through at the end of 
February or early in March. Those that 
require to be repotted should have the 
pots filled two-thirds with clean crocks, 
the older roots to be placed among the 
crocks. The potting material for these should 
be living sphagnum moss only. All the species 
in the warm house and any of the other 
epiphytal species in the intermediate house 
