986 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
The Value of Deep Trenching. —It is gene¬ 
rally admitted that in every part of the 
garden it is of the utmost importance, if 
success is to be achieved, that the soil be 
deeply worked, and to no part does this apply 
more clearly than the hardy flower borders. 
Especially when these are first made should 
deep trenching be carried out; and though 
this work, when well done, costs a little more, 
one is amply repaid by the after results. This, 
of course, applies to borders of perennial 
plants; but with those which are treated as 
annuals and the ground is turned over every 
year it is not necessary to dig more than one 
spit deep if plenty of manure is added and the 
bottom is well broken lip. 
Perennial plants, however, often have to 
stop for several years without being removed, 
and it is essential that there should be a good 
depth of soil for them to root into. Many 
strong-rooting subjects require quite 3ft. of 
well-turned soil, and penetrate deeply for 
moisture in dry weather, when the difference 
between deep and shallow worked ground is 
most apparent. When commencing this work 
a good trench should be taken out at one end 
of the border 3ft. in depth and as much in 
width, and this stacked in a heap at the other 
end. The bottom of the trench should then 
be well broken up with a fork, and one can 
commence to take off the next spit of soil 
3ft. wide and place in the bottom. On this 
layer a good dressing of manure should be 
placed. Then the second spit will come next, 
with a layer of manure also on the top of it, 
and finally the bottom spit in the trench 
should be placed on the top. This means that 
one is placing the top soil in the bottom and 
vice versa,' and if it is of a heavy texture the 
winds and frost will soon pulverise and 
sweeten it. and there will be no difficulty in 
planting, as this breaks up finely. 
Michaelmas Daisies .^-If the weather re¬ 
mains open, the replanting of these where 
necessary can be accomplished at any time. 
It is well to remember that the most healthy, 
free-flowering growths are obtained from the 
young shoots, and not from old, hard crowns 
which have already done service. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
The Flower Garden. 
Last week I pointed out a few of the 
essentials with regard to seed sowing, and it 
may be well to point out that the autumn or 
winter sowing of seeds of certain plants is 
absolutely necessary. Anemones, for instance, 
a re easily raised from seeds, but this must not 
be kept till spring, but sown as soon as ripe, 
otherwise germination will not take place. 
Apropos of woolly seeds like Anemones, the 
novice will find considerable difficulty in 
separating these, but if the seeds are mixed 
with fine dry soil or sand and briskly rubbed 
between the hands an even distribution will 
be obtained. Many herbaceous plants with 
hard seeds are better sown in autumn, the 
moisture in the soil tending to soften the 
shell, the young seedlings pushing out 
strongly with the advent of warmer weather 
in spring. 
When sowing very fine or rare seeds in pots 
or pans it is advisable to sterilise the soil by 
scalding with boiling water or heating on a 
shovel over a hot fire. This prevents the 
growth of moss or extraneous weeds, thus 
giving; the seeds sown a better chance and 
obviating disappointment when the seedlings 
develop. All seedlings sown indoors should be 
gradually accustomed to light, and given all 
the light possible afterwards. Careful watering 
is essential, as the slightest dryness at the roots 
is fatal, and, on the other hand, too much 
water is apt to cause tiny seedlings to damp 
off. The enthusiast, however, will quickly 
learn from the appearance of his seedlings 
whether they are happy or not. As soon as 
the young plants have made two true leaves 
they should be pricked out in fresh soil and 
well watered. Soon they will grow strong and 
sturdy, and by the time summer comes will 
be quite able to look after themselves under 
ordinary conditions. B. W. J. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
To those who appreciate the value of beau¬ 
tiful trees and shrubs it is most gratifying to 
notice that year by year these are growing 
more largely in public favour, and with the 
great interest that is now being manifested in 
all forms of outside gardening it is quite cer¬ 
tain that they will receive much more atten¬ 
tion both in large and small gardens in the 
future than they have done in the past. There 
is no phase of gardening more interesting or 
that gives better returns than the formation 
of collections, and with the immense variety 
now at our disposal it is possible to have 
beautiful effects at all seasons of the year. 
The large majority of our most beautiful 
trees and shrubs, too, are easily cultivated, 
and do not require a large amount of constant 
attention to bring them to a state of perfec¬ 
tion, which is an advantage over many other 
subjects, but it is well to remember that all 
work connected with them should be well done 
if good results are to be obtained. It has 
been my privilege to correspond somewhat 
largely to these pages on this most interesting 
subject, and though I am well aware that 
what I have written has been sadly deficient 
in literary grace, yet I would modestly say 
that if the advice given is carried out one may 
expect the best results to accrue. At all 
events, my advice is the outcome of actual 
facts and observation, and if it has been of 
service to any readers 1 shall be more than 
gratified. 
In the cultivation of trees and shrubs it is 
always advisable to commence with good 
plants, and though these may cost a trifle 
more in the first place, one will be well repaid 
for obtaining them from a reliable firm who 
make a speciality of the most desirable. I 
am fully convinced that having the soil well 
worked beforehand is a matter of paramount 
importance, though many disregard this and 
expect shrubs to do well if a hole is simply 
taken out large enough to contain the roots, 
and are at a loss to know afterwards why they 
do not flourish. In planting specimen trees 
on grass or in similar positions all the soil 
cannot, of course, be turned over, but in such 
cases a good hole should be taken out, so that 
a large amount of soil is broken up, and tne 
December 30, 1905. 
trees will then be able to obtain a firm hold. 
Staking should be thoroughly done where 
necessary, and also the pruning, though this 
is an operation which demands careful con¬ 
sideration, but the object of all who grow 
shrubs should be to cultivate them as well as 
possible. A. E. T. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Indoors. 
At this dull season of the year, with but 
little light some days, forcing operations with 
any variety of fruit must be carried on very 
cautiously. We use the word “ forcing,” but 
in reality the word is a misnomer, as the 
quieter it is conducted when fruit houses are 
first closed the better for the occupants, like¬ 
wise the future of all deciduous fruit trees. 
Although the shortest day has passed, it will 
be some few weeks ere any material change 
can be noted, but as a rule brighter days 
towards the end of January cause the buds to 
burst (whether Peach or Vine) if closed a 
month previous and the usual moist atmo¬ 
sphere maintained, when a little extra heat 
can with advantage be given, especially during 
the day ; it is high night temperature that does 
the mischief. Now the majority .of Chrysan¬ 
themums are over, the amateur, who perhaps 
has but one greenhouse with Vines overhead, 
should take steps to get the pruning done, 
and the glass, wood, etc., thoroughly washed 
don n, so that all may be clean for the new 
year, which to all my readers I hope will 
prove a bright and happy one. 
Pot fruit trees still standing outside will be 
the better under cover, even if not intended 
for early work, as not only the heavy rains 
have to be reckoned with, but birds during 
severe frosts often play havoc with the fruit 
buds of stone fruits, especially Plums, and I 
ha\ e known them to tackle the Peach and 
Nectarine. Pot Strawberries—and many an 
ai dent amateur now grows a few dozens_- 
should test the soil as to moisture, not allow¬ 
ing them to get much on the dry side, but 
where the pots were plunged in ashes, as sug¬ 
gested two months back, little or no water has 
been required since then, and a batch of plants 
started now should give ripe fruit towards the 
end of April, but must be given warm 
quarters after the blossoms are set. Amateurs 
with no stove heat will be better advised to 
keep then plants quiet until near the end of 
February, after which sun heat will play an 
important part towards ripening the fruit. 
Outdoors. 
Seasonable Remarks _During the past 
few weeks much has been written about prun¬ 
ing ; yet there will be much leeway to be 
made up in many gardens, as there are so 
many jobs to be done between times, and the 
more important must take precedence, which 
often means that a deal of pruning is put off 
from day to day, but the sooner it is brought 
to a close in the coming month the better,°as 
pressure of other work will now daily in¬ 
crease. The pruning finished and clear away 
gives the gardener a chance of renovating 
borders - or individual specimens on open 
quarters, which during the past season may 
have shown signs of deteriorating. In such 
cases remove the surface soil down to the 
roots, and give a fresh compost, which may be 
taken from the open garden that has been 
annually manured and carried one or more 
crops if no better can be had, but a little 
fresh, fibrous loam, and for stone fruits a 
sprinkling of old plaster or lime rubble, often 
Works wonders even on an aged tree. Soot, 
