Page Twelve 
HENDERSON'S NURSERY, ATHENS, TEXAS 
HARDY CLIMBING ROSES 
These are the hardiest and. most prolific of the climbers. They reach great 
size and height usually producing their blooms on last year’s wood, so prune spar¬ 
ingly. Usually bear most of their flowers in one magnificent burst in the spring at 
which time they are a gorgeous sight. Price except as noted; First Grade Plants, 
30c each. Medium Grade Plants, 20c each. 
CL. AMERICAN BEAUTY. Strong, healthy, 
vigorous grower, with good size flowers; color 
deep pink, of good form and substance. 
AMERICAN PILLAR. Large, single flowers of 
rich rosy pink. A glint of white at the center, 
with golden yellow stamens. Very strong grower. 
AUSTRIAN COPPER. Bright coppery-red, the 
reverse of the petals golden yellow. An old 
hardy favorite. 
BLOOMFIELD COURAGE. Flowers small, sin¬ 
gle, open, dark velvety red with white eye and 
prominent yellow stamen. Thornless, foliage 
dark green, healthy. 
BREEZE HILL. Flesh tinted with apricot. 
Rank grower. 
CHAPLIN’S PINK CLIMBER. A splendid vig¬ 
orous climber with good sized, shapely, double 
flowers of a rich, lively pink, with just a touch 
of salmon when first expanding. 
DOROTHY PERKINS. A strong, hardy pink 
climber of wonderful beauty. 
DR. HUEY. Bud and flower medium size, semi¬ 
double, dark crimson-maroon of great brilliancy, 
stamens and antlers light yellow, borne in clus¬ 
ters of three or four on good stem. 
DR VAN FLEET. A rose which on account 
of its dainty color and exquisitely shaped buds 
and flowers has become a great favorite. The 
long pointed buds are rich flesh pink, carried on 
stems 12 to 18 inches long. 
EMILY GRAY. A real yellow climbing rose. 
Long, pointed buds of splendid shape. Beautiful 
light orange-yellow blooms changing to pale or¬ 
ange as they expand. 
EXCELSA (Red Dorothy Perkins). Same as 
Dorothy Perkins except it is a brilliant red. 
GARDENIA. Bright yellow buds opening into 
double flowers of a rich cream color. The in¬ 
curved petals and its lovely color make it re¬ 
semble a Gardenia. 
HARRISON’S YELLOW. Fine double golden 
yellow flowers. Plant similar to Hugonis. 
HUGONIS. A splendid rose for the shrubbery 
border with delicate yellow single flowers pro¬ 
duced on long arching sprays early in May; after 
it has finished flowering, it remains an attrac¬ 
tive decorative bush for the remainder of the 
season; perfectly hardy. 
JACOTTE. Large orange-yellow colored blos¬ 
soms freely produced early in the season on 
good stems. Foliage dark glossy green and rank 
climbing growth. One of the best new annual 
climbers. 
LADY GAY. Very much like Dorothy Perkins 
except it does not mildew. More double and 
sometimes recurrent. 
MARY WALLACE. Bright clear rose-pink, with 
salmon base to petals. Very large, shapely, free 
blooming. Pillar rose type, with glossy, disease 
resistant foliage. 
MME. GREGOIRE STAECHLIN. The long 
pointed buds are crimson at first, then opening 
into a lovely flower of pearl pink. Early blooms 
last for a long period in the spring. Something 
entirely new in climbing roses. Very fast and 
rapidly grown. 
PAUL NOEL. Vigorous climber of a mixture of 
old rose and yellow. 
PAULS SCARLET CLIMBER. Vivid scarlet 
shaded slightly crimson. Makes a brilliant display 
for a long time. This can not be classed as a 
monthly bloomer. It has a few blooms at inter¬ 
vals through the seasons. 
ROYAL SCARLET HYBRID. Like Paul’s Scar¬ 
let in type but smaller and deeper in color. 
Free flowering. 
PRIMROSE. Large, double flowers of soft, 
rich primrose yellow, in clusters of four or five 
on very vigorous plants. Fine foliage. 
SILVER MOON. Strong climber, healthy foli¬ 
age, covered in spring with 4 to 5 inch semi¬ 
double flowers, pure white with thick cluster of 
yellow stamens. 
ROSE CULTURE 
LOCATION. Do not plant near trees, hedges 
and shrubbery as their roots will interfere with 
your roses. Roses do not require constant sun¬ 
shine but like a sunny location better than a 
shady one. 
SOIL. Roses are by no means exacting in 
soil requirements, or they could not have be¬ 
come so universally popular from widely different 
soils and locations. The ideal soil is a clay 
loam. Enough clay to be adhesive and enough 
loam to provide good drainage. A soil too heavy 
can be benefited by the addition of sand or leaf 
mold and soil too sandy needs clay added. 
PRUNING. We cannot emphasize too greatly 
the necessity for pruning all roses before trans¬ 
planting. All weak growth should be cut out 
leaving only the stoutest and most vigorous 
shoots, and these should be cut to within six or 
eight inches of the ground. This seemingly 
severe priming will reward you with bigger and 
better blooms with longer stems. This should 
be repeated from year to year according to 
the growth made which usually amounts to re¬ 
moving about three-fourths of the previous years 
growth just before the growth starts in the 
spring. Polyantha roses need the faded bloom 
heads cut out during the growing season and 
a light pruning the following spring. Climbers 
should have all old dead and decayed wood re¬ 
moved during the winter and last seasons side 
growth shortened. Don’t prime climbers much. 
PLANTING. Everblooming bush roses should 
be planted about 18 inches apart; Hybrid Per- 
petuals about 2 feet, and Polyanthas 12 to 15 
inches. The holes should be dug amply to 
receive the roots without crowding. Spread the 
roots out and fill in part of the soil, then add 
water, gently shaking the plant so that the soil 
is settled well around the roots. Finish filling 
the hole and firm the soil well. The union or 
