The above recommendations in the matter of seed to plant ratio is based 
on our own line of seeds. They are not offered as applying to seeds from other 
sources, as other growers often make different recommendations, and con¬ 
siderable variation is experienced in seeds from different localities. Southern 
Oregon grown seeds, however, are among the most viable seeds available. 
PREPARING THE SEED BED 
Soil used for seedling beds need not be as heavily fertilized as the trans¬ 
planting beds, as plants do not stay in them so long nor feed as heavily 
while there. They should, however, have sufficient fertility to produce a 
sturdy plant. Soil that holds moisture well is best adapted to seeding opera¬ 
tions as less danger from drying out is present. A dressing of rotted cow 
manure may be well worked into the bed before planting, and some bone 
meal added. The latter tends to produce a compact, sturdy plant that trans¬ 
plants well. 
It is very essential that beds be worked deeply, say to about 8 inches. 
After spading, water the bed until the soil is completely moistened even 
deeper than it has been worked. This is necessary in order that as much 
moisture may be stored in the bed before seeding as possible, as the less 
watering necessary after seeds are sown, the better the results will be. It 
should be remembered, however, that any dryness during the first 8 days 
after planting may prove fatal. 
SOWING THE SEEDS 
Some growers prefer to sow broadcast while others drill the seeds into 
rows. Where broadcasted the bed should be leveled by lightly tamping. 
Sow seeds and cover lightly with sifted peat moss. With this process it will 
be found best to use burlap or muslin as a covering. 
In our own plantings, we prefer to use drills, as it makes the plants easier 
to cultivate and dig. And, combined with our method of germination, we 
find it more efficient. Beds are first raked level and smooth. Then, using a 
pointed hoe, drills are laid out crosswise of the bed. These are about 
lVi inches deep and 3 inches wide at the top. This operation leaves the sur¬ 
face a series of corrugations. Seeds are sown in the bottom of these drills in 
a wide row so that the row is an inch or so wide at the bottom. The granular 
condition of the surface on which the seeds fall, allows them to lodge in 
between the soil particles. Now take Granulated Peat Moss, just as it is 
loosened from the bale; that is, after rubbing the lumps out. Lightly cover 
the bottom and sides of the drill with this. This covering should be no 
heavier than actually necessary to cover the surface—about 1/I6th of an 
inch. Water bed at this stage with a fine spray, and do it well. 
Now, using 20-pound black builders paper, cover the bed completely, 
weighting the edges of the paper so the wind will not blow it off. This 
creates an ideal condition for germination and if soil retains water well 
and you have given it enough before planting, it is possible that bed will 
need no watering under the paper before the paper is removed. Care should 
be taken in watching for any dry spots under the paper, and if necessary, 
paper should be removed and bed sprayed lightly. In any case allow the 
paper to remain on the bed until plants come through the peat moss and 
unfold the seed leaves. That is a majority of them. 
If temperature is ranging above 85 degrees during the hottest part of the 
day, keep temperature under the paper down by spraying the top of the 
paper. This will usually need being done 3 to 4 times a day in extreme 
weather. Ordinarily this watering on top of the paper allows sufficient 
maintainance of moisture through attraction from edges and aisles, that 
the moisture is kept up well under the paper. 
As stated above, leave the paper on the bed until the seed leaf of a majority 
of the plants have unfolded. This will be in from 5 to 8 days usually. In 
removing the paper, best results will be obtained if it is first removed in the 
evening allowing the bed to be uncovered at night. The following day from 
about 10:00 to 3:00 o’clock beds may need shading if subjected to bright 
sunlight. This may be done by placing the paper cover back on the beds, or 
using cloth or lath shading frames. Tne period of shading may be lessened 
each day for three or four days until plants will take all day sun, after which 
shade may be left off unless heat is severe. If continued shading is necessary 
shades should be raised 6 or 8 incnes above plants or higher. 
CAUSES OF FAILURE 
Damping off may cause some trouble in some localities. This, ordinarily, 
may be handled by holding the plants on the dry side after seeds are up, and 
until the third or fourth leaf is out. Supply just enough water to keep the 
plant from injury but do not keep the bed soaked. In severe cases Flowers 
of Sulphur, Semesan, or formaldehyde may be used with excellent results 
usually. 
Another cause of loss is covering seeds too deep. Care should be 
taken on this point. Crickets, slugs, and some forms of beetles will eat both 
the seeds and plants. Mice are also very destructive. These latter will dig up 
the seeds and eat the kernel before they germinate. Usually they will re¬ 
move the hull, and leave it so nearly whole that only on close examination 
will the destruction of the seed be noticed. Mice are especially fond of Pansy 
seeds, and nearly half the reports of poor germination not directly traceable 
to weather conditions at time of sowing or other directly connected faults 
of care can be traced to this sort of damage. Crickets will also eat seeds 
before they are up. 
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