24 THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Address : The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rohgh outline 
drawing or plan-of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
2493. Name and Treatment of Plaints. 
I have a few plants of which I should 
like to increase the stock. I have enclosed 
three specimens, of which I should like to 
get some young plants. Will you tell me 
how and when to propagate them ? The one 
marked A has been blooming nicely till a 
few days ago. Now nearly all the buds 
and leaves are dropping off and the plant is 
naked. What is the cause ? I have a small 
greenhouse which I keep about 50 degs. 
What are the names of the plants I have 
marked A, B and C? (A. C., Bury St. Ed¬ 
munds.) 
The plant labelled A is Jacobinia pauci- 
flora, better known as Libonia floribunda. 
B and C are varieties of Rhododendron in- 
dicum, usually named Azalea indica or the 
Indian Azalea. All of these are greenhouse 
subjects, but the first-named requires the 
greater amount of heat in winter to keep its 
leaves from falling, though very little harm 
will result from this, as the plant will com¬ 
mence growing again in spring. Your best 
plan would be to cut it back early in March 
or even in February and then encourage it 
to make igrowth in March, so that you could 
take cuttings. These may be taken off with 
a small heel of the old wood when about 
2 in. or 3 in, long and inserted firmly in 
pots of very sandy soil. At that season of 
the year they would root best if the pot is 
partly plunged in a hotbed with a bottom 
heat of 60 degs. to 70 degs. If you make up 
a hotbed some time in March, or as soon 
as the cuttings are ready to take, you could 
stand the pots on the top of the soil of the 
bed or plunge them to half the depth of the 
pot. In a frame like this a bell-glass 
would not be necessary, but as the plant 
may also be rooted in the greenhouse if the 
temperature is sufficiently high it would be 
necessary to cover the pots, with a bell-glass 
or hand-light, so as to keep the moisture 
about them. If you have no other conveni¬ 
ence than the greenhouse you can wait till 
April before taking the cuttings and cover 
them with a bell-glass as stated. As soon as 
they are rooted pot them off in thumb pots 
and keep them growing. Pinch the tops 
some time after potting to lay the founda¬ 
tion of a bushy plant. Give a shift into 
larger sizes when the roots commence to 
run round the sides of the pot. This will 
encourage the plants to make good growth 
during the summer, and next autumn and 
winter you will have nice flowering plants 
of small size. After flowering they can be 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
pruned back and grown on again for other 
years until the plants get too large for you. 
The Indian Azaleas may be propagated much 
in the .same way at the same time and under 
the same conditions. They will probably 
take longer to .root, however, and you will 
have to exercise patience. They may be 
rooted in sandy peat. When rooted pot 
them off singly and encourage them to make 
good growth early in the season by giving 
a fairly high temperature and keeping them 
syringed twice a day in fine weather. They 
may not reach flowering size the first year, 
but may require stopping to make them 
bushy if they are inclined to run away with 
one or two stems. Peat, with a sufficient 
amount of sand, is, of course, the proper 
soil for this class of plants. You will have 
to exercise great care in keeping them just 
moist at all times, but never sodden. When 
they get to flowering size encourage them 
to imake growth early in the summer and 
then in July stand them out of doors in a 
shady situation for a week to harden, and 
then place them in full sunshine on a bed 
of ashes. This will encourage them to 
ripen their wood and plump up their flower 
buds. 
2494. Yellow and White Daisies. 
I had a lot of cuttings given me by a 
friend of yellow and white Daisies, which 
bloomed in profusion out of doors in Novem¬ 
ber. I put them all in boxes to strike in a 
cold greenhouse, and many of them looked as 
if they were growing. I want to know if I 
should now pot them off separately, as they 
are rather crowded in the boxes, or had I 
better wait till the spring? (Mystery, 
Soms.) 
We presume that by yellow and white 
Daisies you mean early flowering Chrysan¬ 
themums, which bloom out of doors. Evi¬ 
dently they are among the latest of the early 
flowering varieties, and may be Pompons, 
judging from your description. It is a little 
too early to shift them out of boxes yet, and 
as the light will be better some time in Feb¬ 
ruary, we would advise you to wait till then 
before potting them off. They should be 
prevented from growing too rapidly by keep¬ 
ing them in as cool a place of the greenhouse 
as you have, and after potting them off they 
may be put into cold frames at least by the 
beginning of March. 
2495. Amaryllis Czar. 
I have an Amaryllis Czar which I bought 
from Kelway’s nursery last spring, and they 
told me it should flower last summer in a 
cold house. I told them I had no heat. 
January 11, 1908. 
The thing did not flower and made about 
three leaves. Now I see they are all falling 
off, turning yellow and damping off at the 
base of the leaves. Is this as it should be? 
Will it start into growth again in spring, 
or .what should I do with it? (Mystery, 
Soms.) 
The varieties of Amaryllis do bloom under 
cool conditions, though they attain greatest 
perfection in an intermediate house while 
making their growth and advancing to 
bloom. Possibly the bulb .was not large 
enough to'flower last year. When it starts 
into growth you could keep it in the warmest 
part of the greenhouse, but well exposed to 
light. It is natural for the leaves to die 
down in winter, and if yours had been 
started early in heat it would, no doubt, 
have died down earlier. Your best plan 
would be to re-pot it next month, putting it 
in some good rich soil, with plenty of sand, 
to enable the superfluous water to pass freely 
away. Leaves, and possibly flowers, will 
push up again in spring, when the tempera¬ 
ture gets sufficiently high. When in full 
growth, give plenty of water, with liquid 
manure once or twice a week, to encourage 
the development of the bulbs. Keep it well 
exposed to sunlight. 
2496. Lilium speciosum rubrum. 
Could you tell me how soon I ought to pot — 
up Lilium rubrum and if it should be put 
in a frame on a hotbed? (Mystery, Soms.) 
We presume your Lily is merely a variety 
of speciosum, which, under natural condi¬ 
tions, blooms very late in the season. It is ’ 
not a very good subject for forcing, although 
if you obtain retarded bulbs they can be had 
in blcom during winter. They practically 
require a good long season to come into bloom 
in a cold greenhouse, and would not- flower 
much before September, if at all. We pre¬ 
sume that the stems and leaves have quite 
withered away by this time, and in that case 
you can re-pot the bulbs in a good rich com¬ 
post, with plenty of sand and drainage. The 
best plan would be to plant it in a well 
lighted position in the greenhouse and 
supply it with plenty of water when in full 
growth, and under these conditions it will 
bloom earlier than if planted out of doors. 
At the same time, if you wish to retard the 
flowers to make them as late as possible, you 
could stand the pots in a well lighted posi¬ 
tion shaded from the direct sunshine during 
the summer months. We do mot think it 
would give you great satisfaction if started 
on a hotbed. 
2497. Cinerarias Damping Off. 
I trust you will pardon me writing you 
regardless of your notice on Christmas busi¬ 
ness. Well, this box I had despatched be¬ 
fore I observed the notice. Enclosed is a 
Cineraria stellata, with which I have had 
considerable trouble, and should therefore 
feel much obliged if you would give me the 
probable causes of my failure. The specimen 
enclosed is one of the most noticeable I have 
spared, and can see the disease, or what if 
might be, at the neck of the plant. I can 
say from June to the present I have lost two 
hundred plants in all stages of growth. To¬ 
day my plants number one hundred, the 
greater part of them in 32 size pots and the 
remainder in 48 pots. At all times the roots 
are active and healthy. Strange to say, this 
plant I have grown for years, and had grand 
success, therefore my failure is a mystery. 
They have had no manure water and no arti¬ 
ficials ; neither have they been watered with 
hard water, but always judiciously. I now 
let the plants get rather on the dry side, but 
as soon .as watered they fail. (A. M., Wey- 
bridge, Surrey.) 
We think the trouble has been contracted 
in the seed bed. They are attacked by the 
disease known as damping, caused by the 
fungus Pythium debaryanum, which is so 
tronblesorufe in boxes of seedlings. The 
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