January 4, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
13 
No doubt the grubs are those of one of 
three weevils that are frequently present 
in gardens. Unless you can get a specimen 
of the perfect weevil, it would be difficult 
to say which The most common one in hot¬ 
houses is Otiorhynchus sulcatus, known as 
the Black Vine Weevil. The perfect weevil 
eats a variety of plants in houses, and the 
grubs eat the roots of many more. The grubs 
may have been imported to the pots in the 
potting soil, but the probability is that some 
of them are lurking about your premises and 
laying eggs in the soil of the pots. You 
cannot do more to the affected plants than 
turn out those that are evidently sickly and 
destroy the grubs. You might, however, lay 
down some pieces of board on the borders 
or floor of the house, and if any of these 
weevils are present they will creep in there 
during the night, and may be found in the 
Planting. 
A medium loam is the most suit¬ 
able in which to grow the Mul¬ 
berry tree, and one which holds moisture 
fairly well, but a position in which there 
is stagnant water will not do. 
Trench the ground deeply, but do not 
put in any manure unless the soil is very 
poor, as a good rich mulch is very bene¬ 
ficial. The aim should be to secure a 
strong but short-jointed growth, as it is 
on such shoots that the fruit is borne. 
Standards or bushes should be planted in 
the open, quite clear of other kinds of 
trees. Make the holes large enough to 
contain the roots without unduly cramp¬ 
ing them, and put a stake to the trees be¬ 
fore filling in the soil. 
When planted against walls the shel¬ 
tered position favours rapid growth, so 
that it is advisable to restrict the rooting 
space; and so induce fruitfulness rather 
than a multitude of branches. This may¬ 
be easily- done by taking out a trench 
6 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 2 feet deep. 
Then put in some broken bricks or gravel, 
and pour some cement over them and 
build up the sides with bricks placed 
on edge. One or two holes at the bottom 
of the wall should be made to allow sur¬ 
plus water to escape from the enclosure. 
Then put in broken bricks or clinkers to 
a depth of 6 inches with thinly-cut turves 
laid on therfi to ensure a sound drainage. 
The trees should be planted in a mix¬ 
ture of loam and chopped turves, with a 
small quantity of old mortar rubbish. 
_(See figures 4 and 5.) 
A, hole 14 in. deep, for the roots of an 
established standard, or bush. 
morning. Apart from these traps, however, 
you could keep the house perfectly clean of 
all loose material not actually required, and 
stop up all crevices in the walls where the 
weevils could hide. ' By persevering for a 
time, you may not be further troubled with 
them. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
John Peed and Son, West Norwood, Lon¬ 
don, S.E.—Peeds’ Seeds. 
Smith and Simons, 36-38, West George 
Street, Glasgow.—Descriptive List of Giant- 
flowered Sweet Peas. 
Dobbie and Co., Rothesay, N.B.—Spring 
Catalogue, 1908 
James Carter and Co., 237, 238 and 
97, High Holborn, Iondon. — Garden and 
Lawns. 
Training. 
If a standard is planted, there 
should be a clean stem about 5 feet 
H i- ■ 1 
Shows a brick -pit, in section, made 
against a wall for the roots of the tree; A, 
pit; B, drainage rubble. 
long. When branches grow freely the 
weighty leaves on them would soon be 
the cause of a broken stem when the wind 
blew strong gales unless a stout stake sup¬ 
ported the tree. 
Simply retain five or six branches and 
Training a standard; A, branches cut 
back; B, new growth (selected); C, new 
growths pinched; D, resultamt branches. 
keep the centre of the tree open at first, 
as it will fill in naturally quite soon 
enough. 
Bushes are easily grown, the only thing 
Shows how to train a fon-shaped tree; A. 
branches cut back; B, new shoots for exten¬ 
sion; C, C, new shoots forming here must 
be severely pinched to prevent overcrowding 
in centre. 
being to see that there is a good balance 
of growth, with rather less crowding of 
branches on the north side, as this portion 
of the tree gets less sunshine than any 
other. 
Training the branches against walls re¬ 
quires some skill in order to prevent un¬ 
due crowding and yet have sufficient spurs 
to bear a full crop all over the surface of 
the wall space covered by the branches. 
Train half the branches to the right and 
the other half to the left, keeping the 
centre more open, as the shoots will natur¬ 
ally grow towards it. Fan-shaped speci¬ 
mens are the best, and as the stems of 
the Mulberry are more crooked than those 
of the Peach and Cherry, do not attempt 
Training a bush-shaped tree; A, the 
branches cut back; B, young shoots. 
to train them in too formal a manner. 
Be satisfied if you cover the wall with 
healthy foliage and fruit spurs, which 
means a full crop from a limited space. 
(See figures 6, 7, and 8.) G. 
(To be continued.) 
-- 
Laeliocattleya Ortrude. 
The above was derived from L. anceps 
crossed with C. dowiana aurea. The 
sepals are white, washed with pale pink, 
and the lip is splashed and streaked with 
deep purple on pale pink. The lip re-, 
calls the last-named parent in being 
crimson-purple with orange lines in tl^e 
throat, but the tube is more flattened out. 
Award of Merit by the R.H.S. on Novem¬ 
ber 26th, when shown by Major Holford, 
C.I.E., C.V. O. (grower, Mr. H. G. 
Alexander), Westonbirt, Gloucester. 
Primula muscarioides was discovered 
in 1894 on the margin of Pine woods in 
China at an elevation of 14,000 ft. or 
more. 
Fruit Growing 
10.-THE MULBERRY. p Q p AMATEURS. 
(Continued from p. 778, vii.) 
