68 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
February i, 1908. 
The Flower Garden. 
Readers of The Gardening World will 
remember that I advised them to carefully 
examine any Rose cuttings immediately 
after a severe frost and once more make the 
soil firm around them. Well, since writing 
those notes we have experienced a very 
severe frost indeed throughout the country. 
It came suddenly, and also departed in like 
manner. But ft has left behind its marks 
on many tender shrubs and flowering plants. 
The immature ends, or tips, of Rose bushes 
are blackened, and, in due time, it will be 
necessary to cut off all such affected growths. 
In the meantime, however, tread down the 
soil around Rose cuttings after firmly-press¬ 
ing each one down so that its base rests on 
firm ground. 
Flower Garden. This sketch shows how a 
shrub should be -planted. 
Transplanting Shrubs. 
Advantage should be taken of mild 
weather to lift and replant any shrubs that 
you wish to have removed. This work 
should be thoroughly done, as bad manage¬ 
ment would result in the loss of manv 
branches, perhaps, and so impair the ap¬ 
pearance of the specimen. 
The accompanying sketch shows how to 
replant a shrub. When lifting the bush, or 
tree, use a strong garden fork for the re¬ 
moval of the soil from the roots, then the 
latter will appear as in the sketch. As 
much soil as possible should be removed 
with the roots. The hole should be made 
much larger than the actual ball of soil, 
so that the big roots, as shown at A, will 
have ample space. The ball of soil, B, 
should rest on new loam, C, to a depth of 
about six inches, and not be placed on the 
hard soil at the bottom of the hole. Also 
mix some rotted manure with the soil used 
for the filling up of the hole, well work¬ 
ing the compost around the roots and mak¬ 
ing all firm. Too often shrubs are planted 
in poor soil without a scrap of manure be¬ 
ing added to assist the growth. Give your 
shrubs some manure, then they will grow 
luxuriantly. 
Wood Ashes for Lawns. 
In the month of March a dressing of wood 
ashes will do the lawn much good. In the 
meantime, all prunings and other trimmings 
from trees should be burned, and the ashes 
kept dry in a shed until the early part of 
March, when a light dressing may be put 
on the lawn if the latter be overrun with 
moss. A dressing of wood ashes should al¬ 
ways be put on mossy lawns in November, 
but where this work has not been done, see 
that it is not overlooked in March. 
Ordering Flower Seeds. 
The new seed catalogues are now coming 
to hand, and they should be carefully 
studied. It is a very pleasant study; at 
least, »I, personally, think so. I am, if 
possible, more interested in the perusal of 
seed and plant catalogues now than I was 
nearly thirty years ago, and I am sure ama¬ 
teurs, generally, take a great delight in look¬ 
ing through the pages of these books. Care¬ 
fully mark any novelties that you require 
in addition to the usual kinds that you grow. 
In future issues of the “ G.W.” I hope to 
give a few hints on ordering and sowing 
seeds. 
The Fruit Garden. 
The Japanese Wineberry. 
This is not a new fruit really, as it was 
introduced nearly thirty years ago. But 
during the past ten years or so it has been 
largely grown in our gardens. 
The plant is vigorous in growth, hardier 
than the Raspberry or Blackberry, and may 
be grown to perfection by any amateur who 
has a few square yards of ground to spare 
for the purpose. The stems are strong, 
thickly covered with small thorns of a crim¬ 
son tint. The leaves are large, with silvery 
reverses. Altogether, this is a highly orna¬ 
mental plant, which bears fruit very freely 
in large clusters similar to the Blackberry. 
The canes will grow to a height of 12 feet, 
so that it is necessary to plant the rows 
singly, as shown in the sketch, or at least 
six feet apart. Young plants will quickly 
form arches over paths. The fruit falls 
Kitchen Garden. This is the -way to sow 
Peas in shallow drills. 
directly it is ripe, and as birds are fond 0: 
it, netting must be resorted to. If. the soi! 
be very poor, some manure may be put in 
otherwise do not add manure, as the - canes 
grow so freely. 
Nailing Up Peach Trees on Walls. 
Where these trees, and those of Nectarines 
and Apricots, are grown on walls facing 
the south the buds will soon commence to 
swell, and it is unwise to defer the nailing 
or tying of the branches too long, else many 
buds may be sacrificed in carrying out the 
work. First fasten the main or largest 
branohes into position, spreading them well 
out so that the centre of a fan-trained tree 
will be open. This part will soon be filled 
by new growths in the summer. Then tie in 
the smaller shoots, those that bear the fruit 
Fruit Garden. The Japanese Wine- 
berry should be planted in rows. 
buds. When making the ligatures leave 
room for the stems to swell. The young 
fruit-bearing branches should be left about 
four inches apart when the work of tying 
or nailing is finished. 
Grafts Heeled into the Ground. 
Where these have been tied into bundles 
and heeled into the ground they should be 
examined, and, if through frost or other 
agencies they have been loosened, press the 
soil down firmly around them. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Potatos. 
Examine these and remove any which may 
have been frozen, or those which are de¬ 
cayed. 
Peas. 
Having previously prepared the ground, 
as advised by deeply digging and manuring 
it, sow a few rows of seeds of an early 
variety in wide drills, as shown in the 
sketch, and cover them with dry soil nearly 
three inches deep. 
Broad Beans. 
Make another sowing of Beck’s Green - 
Gem, or Mazagan, to form a succession. , 
Parsnips. 
Prepare the ground by deeply forking up 
the soil in readiness for sowing seeds. 
The Onion Beds. 
If the soil was deeply trenched and 
manured in the autumn, turn over the top 
portion and break up hard lumps with the 
garden fork. Where manure was not put 
in in the autumn, add some that is well 
rotted forthwith. 
Foxglove. '• 
