February i, 1908. 
75 
THE QARDBNINQ WQ*LD. 
ing outside in April. Cabbages may be sown 
in February or March for the first supply of 
voung plants to put out in the open. Cauli¬ 
flowers may also be sown during January or 
February, and although you may start them 
on the hotbed they should soon after be 
transplanted into boxes and placed in a 
frame. Broccoli may also be sown during 
February and March or April for an autumn 
supply. Frames are also very handy for 
wintering Cauliflower seedlings raised from 
seeds sown at the beginning of August in the 
open. Celery for an early crop may be 
reared on the hotbed and afterwards trans¬ 
ferred into a cold frame. The principal 
sowing, however, may be made in March. 
Parsnips do not require frames, so that you 
can sow them in the open during February 
or March, where they are to be left until 
fully grown. In the case of Beetroot some 
seed” of the Globe Beet might be sown in 
March and later on planted out when the 
weather becomes fine. Leeks, if you want 
an early supply, may be reared on the hot¬ 
bed like Onions and placed in a cold frame 
some time in March. Turnips may be sown 
in the open during March and April, and 
on to the beginning of August. Frames are 
not necessary for them unless you wish to 
bring them on rapidly. Marrows may be 
sown by the middle of March over a hotbed 
and then planted out after the plants have 
attained some size in pots. Radishes may 
be sown between the lines of Potatos if you 
wish an early supply, but out of doors you 
can make the first sowing in March and 
afterwards make a fresh one every fourteen 
or twenty-one days according to the supply 
required. From March onwards you can, of 
course, make sowings out of doors. \'ou 
might, indeed, have a separate hotbed from 
that in which you grow’ Potatos, because 
you could rear all the seeds we have men¬ 
tioned and after the Marrows have grown to 
some size and the other plants cleared off this 
hotbed you can then plant a vegetable Mar¬ 
row or two in each frame or light. It is 
impossible to go into greater detail here 
as you have mentioned altogether too many 
kinds for one week, but the information will 
be a guide as to how you can make a start. 
In the case of flower frames during a period 
of frosty weather the sashes should be kept 
closed from the time the frost commences 
until the soil inside is perfectly thawed. 
While the soil is actually frozen it would be 
advantageous to keep the mats on the frames 
during the day, especially if the sun comes 
out brightly. We do not believe in keeping 
the frames covered for long periods, how¬ 
ever, during the day, and unless you have 
something that particularly wants to be kept 
sheltered or protected from frost the frames 
should be left uncovered during the day. If 
any of these points are not quite clear to you, 
you can ask for the information, but do not 
include so many plants in one question, so 
that we will be able to give you some detail. 
2564. Raising Peas in an Unheated 
Greenhouse. 
Can garden Peas be reared in an unheated 
greenhouse and not get killed in frosty 
weather? I want to raise some English 
Wonder and Gradus to plant out when the 
weather becomes fine. Any information 
would be welcomed. (S. Walker, Wilts.) 
Garden Peas are hardy and can readily 
be grown in unheated greenhouses because 
glass will be a protection preventing the wind 
from injuring them while they may happen 
to be frozen. You should sow the Peas in 
long, narrow boxes of a temporary char¬ 
acter, and merely' made for the purpose of 
the Peas. Thev should only be lightly fas¬ 
tened. together by' not driving the nails fully' 
home, so that when you finally take the boxes 
into the garden you may undo the boxes in 
the actual trenches dug out for the Peas. 
These boxes may be stood in any part of the 
greenhouse where they will be as much ex¬ 
posed to light as possible to prevent the 
stems from getting unduly drawn. 
FRUIT. 
2565. Fruit Trees on Walls. 
I am enclosing a plan of a garden which 
I am desirous of laying out with some fruit 
and plenty of flowers. At present there is 
nothing in it but grass and a few oddments, 
as the garden is comparatively new. The 
back walls are about 5 ft. 6 in. high and the 
front walls about 3 ft. high. We thought of 
growing some fruit on the back walls, Ap¬ 
ples, Pears and, if possible, a Plum tree 
or two, and would be glad if you could let 
us know the varieties to get a succession suit¬ 
able to the various aspects. (Ed. T. Gee, 
Lancs.) 
We have selected four Pears which might 
be grown on the south aspect wall, that is, 
the end wall furthest from the dwelling 
Sweet Peas & 
New Varieties. 
The next number of the 
GARDENING 
WORLD 
will be specially devoted to 
Sweet Peas and New Va¬ 
rieties. It will be profusely 
illustrated, and beautifully 
got up. Don’t fail to order 
a copy of this special issue, 
as there will be a big de¬ 
mand for it, and you may 
be left without one. 
house. They are Williams’ Bon Chretien, 
Louise Bonne of Jersey, Doyenne du Cornice 
and Easter Beurre. These Pears should be 
grafted on the Quince stock. Greengage and 
Victoria Plums may be planted on the wall 
facing the west, as they bloom early. We 
have selected a larger number of Apples, 
as you do not say whether you require des¬ 
sert Apples ocr cooking ones, but you can 
make your selection from the lists. They 
should be grafted on the Paradise stock to 
keep them in moderate growth and make 
them fruit early. The dessert Apples are 
Irish Peach, Lad}' Sudelev, Worcester Pear- 
main. James Grieve, Cox’s Orange Pipoin 
and Sturmer Pippin. These are arranged in 
the order of ripening. The cooking Apples 
are Lord Suffield, Dumelow’s Seedling (Wel¬ 
lington), Bismarck, Newton Wonder, Bram- 
ley’s Seedling and Easter Pippin. The first- 
named ripens in August and the last might 
be kept till June. The trees, even on the 
dwarfing stocks, should have at least i; ft. 
from centre to centre of each tree. These 
Apples may be planted so as to fill the re¬ 
maining space on your east and west walls. 
2566. Rearing Melons and Cucumbers. 
Will you kindly inform me as early as 
possible if Cucumber and Melon seeds 
should be watered when sown or wait until 
they make the first rough leaf, and should 
they be stopped before planting ? Any other 
particulars with regard to cultivation will 
be esteemed. Also, should the pot be 
covered with glass? (G., Blackpool.) 
At this early period of the year it is 
necessary to be careful with the watering 
pot when dealing with Melon seedlings. 
Another safe plan is to use small pots for 
each seedling, but two seeds should be sown 
in each in order to make certain of a gcod 
plant, but after they are well germinated 
the weaker one should be pulled out. This 
saves the roots of your plant when shifting 
into a larger size, and gives no check to the 
growth of the seedling. If you put the 
seeds from 5 in. to r in. below the surface 
and then use a pane of glass over the top 
no watering will be necessary at the time of 
sowing. You. should, however, keep your 
eye upon the soil to see that it really does 
not become dry, because if it gets too dry 
the Melons cannot make any progress. You 
can stand the pots about half their depth in 
a pan of lukewarm water, so as to wet the 
soil, when they really require any watering. 
Then, again, if you plunge the pots in a 
hotbed, this will serve to keep them moist 
for a much longer period. You can either 
cover the pots with panes of glass, hand- 
lights or bell glasses until the seeds ger¬ 
minate, after which they should be removed 
at once. If two plants are put in the centre 
of each light you can allow one to grow 
towards the back and another towards the 
front of the frame. Do not pinch or stop the 
stems until they have grown about two-thirds 
across the frame. If they are stopped at 
too early a stage in their growth, it really 
delays growth considerably, but after the 
plants have attained the size mentioned, they 
will shoot out again very readily, giving 
you shoots to occupy the width of the frame. 
We have sent you -two numbers of The Gar¬ 
dening World as requested in your letter. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
2567. Code of Rules for Judging. 
Could you inform me where I could get 
a code of rules for judging purposes, also 
the price I should have to p^ for it, and 
oblige? (A. Young, Kent.) 
Apply to the Secretary, Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society, Vincent Square, Westminster, 
London, where you will get a “ Code of 
Rules for Judging ” for is. 6d. post free. 
25 68. Quantity of Gishurst Compound 
to be Used. 
Would you kindly let me know in your 
next issue how many ounces of Gishurst 
Compound I should use to each gallon of 
water for dressing the rods of Black Ham¬ 
burgh and Foster’s Seedling Vines? I have 
been in the habit of using two ounces. 
(H. H., Oxon.) 
Two ounces is a fair average in such cases, 
but you can vary it from 2 oz. to 4 oz. of 
Gishurst Compound per gallon of water, and 
it will be more effective in proportion. We 
have known people use Gishurst Compound 
in lather from the cake, so as to get it strong 
enough. Two to four ounces will, however, 
be sufficient 
2569. VI for Spraying Apple Trees. 
Some time ago I read in The Gardening 
World that one of your correspondents re¬ 
commended Vi for spraying Apple trees in 
January. Might I trouble you to let me 
know in your next issue where I can pro¬ 
cure it, or can vou recommend anything 
be*ter? (W. H. E. Brown, Ireland.) 
The insecticide used for spraying Apple 
trees in winter which you mention is a very 
