IDE GARDENING WORLD. 
February &, 190s. 
Cjb 
Roses now, use the same plants for forcing 
next year, and feed them well with weak 
liquid manure when making their growth. 
2583. Climbing Poses for Buttonholes. 
Could you please give me the names of 
two buttonhole Roses (climbers) that will do 
well with a minimum of sun, as I have a 
wall that .rarely gets the sun? How can I 
tie the Rose stems to the wires on which 
they are trained ? I find the wires rub 
the bark off when it is windy. (Novice, 
Somerset.) 
Roses do not give much satisfaction unless 
they get a fair amount of sunshine during 
the day. Of course, one must make the best 
of .conveniences one has. Then, taking it 
into consideration that your Roses will get 
very little sunshine, we select two that would 
be likely to grow rather than two of the 
best buttonhole Roses. You can -easily get 
over it, however, by not disbudding and by 
cutting the Roses when they are in the bud 
state. The two that we would recommend 
are Bouquet d’Or (yellow) and Felicite-et- 
Perpetue (white). The thick stems of Roses 
may be tied rather closely with tar twine, 
land .the more .slender ones with .strong 
raffia twisled or twirled between the fingers 
till it is round. 
2584. Fragrant Roses. 
I have a small garden and a desire for a 
few Rose trees. The garden faces south¬ 
west. Could you give me a list of about 
one dozen trees and bushes of fragrant Roses, 
and oblige? (A. Larcher, Essex.) 
A very large proportion of the most 
sweetly fragrant Roses are Hybrid Per- 
petuals. Belonging to this class we should 
name General Jacqueminot, Mrs. J. Laing, 
Ulrich Brunner, Dupuv Jamain, Alfred 
Colomb, Exposition de Brie and Heinrich 
Schultheis ; La France and Cherry Ripe are 
fragrant Hybrid Teas. Maiden’s Blush be¬ 
longs to the group Al ! ba; • Mme. Isaac 
Periere is Bourbon ; and Rosa Mundi is a 
summer-blooming Rose. All of these are 
deliciously scented and can be grown as 
bushes. If you want trees,- you will have 
to get them in the form of standards, and 
the H.P.’s would be most suitable for that 
purpose, although several others might like¬ 
wise be grown that way. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
2585. Shrubs with Evergreen Foliage. 
I have three large sewage pipes about 3 ft. 
in diameter, with an additional 6 in. rim. 
They are placed as a break between the front 
and kitchen garden, and are in an exposed 
position. I want to plant in each a shrub 
that would keep its foliage throughout the 
yeaT and grow fairly tall and bushy. I 
should be glad if you would kindly inform 
me what, in your opinic/i, is the best to plant 
and whether you would recommend those 
that can be trained to various shapes ? 
(Amateur, Cheshire.) 
Three plants that would grow freely and 
make bushy specimens would be Golden 
Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium foliis aureis), 
Phillyrea angustifolia and Osmanthus ilioi- 
folius. All of these have got relatively 
mall leaves and are evergreen, even if the 
Golden Privet may lose its leaves towards 
spring. It you want bushes that could 
readily be cut into shapes of birds or ani¬ 
mals, you could get the common Tree Box 
or English Yew, but they grow slowly. A 
'.arieg.ated Box that grows slowly is Buxus 
japonicus aurea. Two other trees that would 
grow slowly but are perfectly evergreen, 
are the common English Holly and the 
Holly-leaved Oak (Quercus Ilex). These 
two latter are very hardy. The first three, 
however, would make bushy specimens in 
the shortest time. 
2586. Cuttings of Clematis. 
Can you tell me how to strike cuttings of 
Clematis montana, C. Jackmanni and C. 
lanuginosa, and when? I have only a cold 
house, but have a propagator and can get 
bottom heat of 70 degs. The Jackmanni in 
my garden is now breaking away on the old 
wood, like the accompanying drawing. (Har- 
RINGAY, Middlesex.) 
The species and varieties of Clematis can 
be propagated in a great variety of ways, 
and even raised from cuttings, but it would 
not be an easy method of raising them. Short, 
jointed wood would furnish specimens with 
a pair of eyes, and these could be inserted 
in pots of sandy soil and the pots plunged 
in a gentle hoc-bed. These will root by early 
summer, if you are successful. A' much 
easier method of increasing them is to graft 
them. Get pieces of the roots of the wild 
C. Vital'ba, C. ViticelLa, or any other strong¬ 
growing one, and cut these roots into lengths 
that will conveniently go into small pots. 
Slit them at the upper end and cut scions 
from the varieties you wish to propagate. 
Push ‘them into the slits, tie them firmly, 
and then pot them up in small pots. Plunge 
these pots in a hot-bed, and more of them 
will form a union and in a shorter time than 
you can root cuttings. They may also be 
propagated by layers at any time, but if 
done in spring they would be ready to sever 
from their parents in the following, spring. 
Scrape off a small portion of the outer bark 
at the point which is bent into the soil, and 
roots will be developed there. 
VEGETABLES. 
2587. Forcing French Beans. 
I sent an enquiry about a month ago with 
regard to forcing French Beans, which are 
making good growth in about 60 degs. of 
heat. Some are 2 in. to 3 in. high. I should 
like to ask now, am I to keep the house 
damp? I am damping the floor and other 
parts of the house twice a day. 1 may also 
say I have them over the hot-water pipes on 
a stage about 18 in. above the pipes. Do you 
think they are getting too much bottom heat ? 
If so, there is another stage in the middle 
of the house, but not so near the glass. I 
give a chink of top ventilation if the tem¬ 
perature rises above what I have stated, about 
mid-day for about one hour. (G., Black¬ 
pool .) 
As far as you have gone you are evidently 
carrying out the instructions properly. When 
the Beans get leafy there will be some 
dangler of their getting attacked by red 
spider if they get very dry on the stages. 
We think the front stage is the best place, 
but if too dry you can cover it with a layer 
of coal ashes or fine gravel, so as to hold 
moisture about the pots and thereby keep the 
foliage relatively moist. You need not hesi¬ 
tate, however, to syringe the plants lightly 
twice a day during bright weather.- After 
the Beans have set a good crop you may 
want to regulate the time of gathering. For in¬ 
stance, if the weather is favourable to rapid 
growth and you wish to get the Beans ready 
mbout Easter, it may be necessary to shift 
the pots on to the cooler staging. In the 
meantime, however, and until the fruits 
have set, the front staging is the best place 
for them to keep the stems short-jointed and 
give substance to the leaves. Later on it 
may be necessary to give air in the middle 
of the day for a longer period. AT, the 
weather changes you must act up to it, and 
give more or (less air accordingly. 
2588. Vegetables Unsatisfactory. 
I enclose a piece of Duchess of Cornwall 
Potato and Turnip, and will be glad if you 
can tell me the cause of the disease in both. 
A great many of the Potatos are affected in 
the same way,' and I would be glad to learn 
if this disease may be due to, or increased 
by, too much or too little manure, or the 
wrong kind. The soil of the garden is 
rather he&vy and is trenched every two or 
three years and well dug every year. It is 
well nourished with stable and cow manure, 
and a river runs near it. It is well exposed 
to the sun. I am much disappointed with 
some of the vegetables this year, and will be 
glad to learn if one ton of lime to an acre 
and a ha'lf would be likely to improve the 
vegetables. (Nemo, Scotland.) 
We have inspected your samples of Potato 
and Turnip. Potatos often behave in this 
way on heavj' soil. They grow too fast, when 
the sun at length warms up the rich, moist 
soil. The pith in the centre breaks up as 
the Potato gets larger, so the hole increases 
with it. Some varieties, especially large 
kinds, are liable to this bad behaviour. The 
antidote, of course, is to plant varieties 
which do not grow very large, and also in 
soils that are fairly dry. Potatos are always 
of good quality in sandy soils, but of course, 
if your soil is naturally heavy, all you can 
do is to improve it .for the sake of the Po- j 
tatos. Concerning the Turnip, heavy soil 
and the wet season last year made the ene¬ 
mies of plant life active, and it seems to us 
the Turnip had either been blind or had its 
centre eaten out by some insect, and the 
injured portion became larger as the Turnip 
increased in size. The injury, whatever it 
was, must have occu,rred when the Turnip 
was quite small. Your idea of applying : 
lime to the land is a good one, and one ton 
would not be too ijiuch. Indeed, lime may 
be applied at the rate of one to two tons per 
acre once in six years. This will help to 
make the soil more friable, and at the same 
time hasten the decay of vegetable mattei 
in the soil, making it suitable as food for 
the plants. The land might also be dug or 
trenched early in the autumn, so as to give 
frost an opportunity of breaking it down in 
winter. Your practice of digging, trench¬ 
ing and manuring is a good one, and in the 
course of a year or two your soil should 
be in much better heart for vegetables. Rank 
manure would be better than well-rotted 
manure for heavy land. If you could get 
shelly sand from the seashore to spread over 
it at the rate of two tons per acre, for the 
sake of the Potatos, it would help it con¬ 
siderably, because, while it contains lime, 
M is less active than newly-burnt lime, and 
would not interfere with the dressing of the 
latter, while it would serve to make the soil 
more porous. 
2589. Onions and Shallots. 
(1) I have made the bed for Onions and 
Shallots. How far should the top of the 
dung be from the surface of the earth? I. 
have put about 3 in. or 4 in. of earth on the 
top of the dung. (2) Would you tread the 
bed for both Onions and Shallots, or for 
Onions and not Shallots, or would you ad¬ 
vise me not to tread for either? If I tread 
the ground for Shallots I should have to 
make the holes with a stick; I could not 
press them in. (3) Would one gallon of 
lime, one gallon of soot, and one gallon of 
salt mixed together hurt the crop if I well 
mix it with the earth? Should I let it lie 
on the surface? The size of the piece of 
ground is 20 ft. long and 4 ft. wide. (4) 
Is p'g's dung good foT Onions ? (S. H. R. V., 
Cornwall.) 
(1) The dung is quite far enough from the 
surface for either Onions or Shallots. From 
your letter we presume you have taken off a 
layer of 3 in. or 4 in. of .soil, put in the 
dung, and then returned the soil. A much 
better plan would be to put in a laj'er at 
least 2 ft. below the surface in trenching, 
and the rest under the top layer. If merely 
digging the ground, however, we should lav 
the dung on and dig it in so that the dung 
will be partly mixed with the soil. (2) By 
all means tread the ground for Onions, and 
