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Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
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prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac¬ 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
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will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
2694. Name and Treatment of Plant. 
Will you kindly give me the name of the 
enclosed plant, the treatment it requires and 
if it flowers. Also, if it can be propagated 
from cuttings. (John M’Lean, Ross-shire.) 
The specimen you sent ,us was the Hotten¬ 
tot Fig (Mesembryantbemum edule). In 
your district it will practically be a green¬ 
house plant, although, you could grow it out 
of doors during summer as a bedding plant 
if you feel so inclined. Under those condi¬ 
tions you would have to take cuttings of it 
early in September and root them with other 
bedding plants. In propagating this plant 
you will have to remember it is succulent 
and would be liable to damp off if kept too 
wet. There is no fear of the cuttings flag¬ 
ging when taken off, so that you could even 
lay them down for a day or two to get dr} r 
at the ends before inserting them in soil that 
is three parts sand. They could, of course, 
be rooted in pure sand, and if you elect to 
propagate them in spring you could fill a 
box with silver sand, water it to settle the 
soil, and then insert the. cuttings in the 
sand. The bottom of the box should, of 
course, be so constructed that superfluous 
moisture will pass freely away. There is 
not so much danger in rooting the cuttings 
under these conditions. We should cut be¬ 
low a joint that is green in preference to one 
that is ripened and brown, because roots 
will be sooner produced under those condi¬ 
tions. The plant does not flower very freely 
rn this country unless it gets well baked 
with the sun. During summer it should 
have a fair amount of water, but in winter 
it should be kept relatively dry. Some 
pans of it in the greenhouse would serve to 
give variety for the sake of the foliage, 
even if no flowers are produced. 
2695. Decorative Pelargoniums. 
Will you please name six or eight of the 
best decorative Pelargoniums. (J. Sturt. 
Middlesex.) 
You have used a proper term if you ac¬ 
tually mean the plants to which it is usually 
applied in gardening, but as you use Gera 
nium in another part of your letter, we pre¬ 
sume you mean Zonal Pelargoniums by that 
term. You should remember that Geraniums 
are really hardy border plants. The decora¬ 
tive Pelargoniums we have selected are 
Gloriosa, white wdth five heavy blotches; 
Gold Mine, orange ; Princess May, pink, 
feathered with maroon ; Edith, rosy-crimson 
with two maroon blotches ; Countess of War¬ 
wick, orange-scarlet; and Duchess of West¬ 
minster, rosy salmon with two maroon 
blotches. In case you mean bedding Pelar¬ 
goniums by your term, we have selected half- 
a-dozen of the best for that purpose, namely, 
Paul Crampel, scarlet; George Potter, 
crimson-scarlet; Beauty, cherry-red; Sur¬ 
prise, salmon ; Olive Carr, rose-pink ; and 
Snowdrop, white. 
2696. Best Double Fuchsias. 
Would you name a few of the best varie¬ 
ties of double Fuchsias? (J. Sturt, Middle¬ 
sex.) 
Light-coloured .and double Fuchsias, that 
is, having a scarlet tube and white petals, 
are Ballet Girl, Duchess of Edinburgh, and 
Mine. Carnot. Varieties having a dark 
purple corolla with scarlet tube and sepals 
are Champion of the World, Avalanche and 
Phenomena]. 
2697. Plants for Unheated Green¬ 
house. 
Can you name a few plants that would do 
in the small unheated glasshouse shown in 
the plan enclosed and which you will see 
is quite in an angle of the building and 
facing, roughly, south-west. Would it be 
possible to have a few blooms all the year 
round in such a structure (no heat avail¬ 
able), and if so, could you name a list of 
plants that would produce them under fa¬ 
vourable treatment? (A. Merryweather, 
Yorks.) 
You could grow Pelargoniums and 
Fuchsias in that house during the summer, 
giving the former the most exposed and 
sunny position, as the Fuchsias will thrive 
under slight shade. Some of the early- 
flowering Wallflowers and winter flowering 
Stocks would make useful plants to flower 
under those conditions if you understand the 
method of growing them. We presume that 
you would have a cold frame to supplement 
the greenhouse by growing stock in summer 
to supply the g-reenheuse in winter. If 
you have not this convenience, you will have 
to make the best of it under the conditions. 
You could get Early Parisian, Sutton’s Win¬ 
ter Brown or Earliest of All Wallflowers, 
the last-named being ,a yellow variety. If 
you sow these out of doors> during July, you 
could afterwards lift them when they have 
made a few leaves, pot them singly in small 
pots and shift them into larger ones as they 
require it until they were in 5 in. or 6 in. 
pots. If well grown, plants of this size 
would give a good quantity of bloom some 
time between autumn and winter according 
to the weather. Princess Alice is a pure 
white, sweet-scented Stock, and Beauty of 
March 21, 
1908. 
N ice, salmon pink, is another one well suitet 
for winter flowering. Sow the seed in Jnh 
and treat them as for Wallflowers. Thi 
point to remember is that you should ge 
them well established in pots before th 
dull days of autumn arrive. They shouli 
be, in fact, well advanced towards the flower 
ing stage by then. The Wallflowers shouh 
first come into bloom. It would be very ©as- 
to get a good supply of early spring flower 
by potting Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocuses 
and ether hardy bulbs in September or Oc 
tober: You should keep them near the gla; 
for the sake -of keeping the foliage dwari 
Flowering these bulbs under the condition 
you name would be much easier than grow 
ing Wallflowers and Stocks, unless you hav 
some experience in rearing those things i 
pots. Another plan you could employ woul 
be to grow the Wallflowers and Stocks in 
piece of well-prepared garden ground an< 
pot them up about the middle of Septeir 
ber. This would give them time to gf 
established in the pots before winter. 
2698. Tulips and Hyacinths Unsatis 
f actoiry. 
Could you kindly give me your opinio 
about the enclosed Tulip and leaves? Thes 
have been grown in boxes in an unheate 
greenhouse. They were put into boxes i 
August and stood out of doors till Decen 
ber. They then came into the house. Th: 
bloom is the first, and, as you see, it i 
.stunted, bad in colour and looks disease: 
Do you think slugs have attacked ties- 
plants, and, if so, how. can I get rid 
them ? They are not to be found during th 
day in the house. All the Tulip leaves hav 
this curious appearance, some thin an 
twisted, some full of holes. I am also sene 
ing some Hyacinth leaves. These have do:: 
well in boxes treated in exactly the sam 
way as the Tulips, but when lifted and pt 
into bowls for the house all the leaves ha\ 
died down in this way, the flowers repair 
ing strong and upright. I shall be mo: 
grateful for your help' in this matte: 
(A. C. E., Guernsey.) 
There must be some mistake in the cult, 
vation, that is, in your method. We thin 
the holes in the leaves of the Tulips hav 
been eaten by slugs while the leaves wer 
still young and the plants standing out c 
doors. The holes get bigger, of course, a 
the leaves get larger. We think your bull 
would' have had a better chance if they ha 
been put in pots at the beginning an 
plunged in ashes or coooanut fibre. Th; 
would have kept slugs away from them moi 
effectually. It is just possible you hav 
kept the Tulips in a rather shaded situatio 
after taking them indoors. The flower gav 
us the impression that it had been fore? 
or drawn by bad light, or, in other word; 
by being shaded. We are somewhat su: 
picious _as to whether your Tulips are n< 
affected with some disease, but you did n< 
send us a bulb. On the other hand, til 
twisting you mention may have been due 1 
accident. We are afraid the bulbs are a 
tacked by the bulb mite, and have been rei 
dered weak in consequence. You made 
great mistake in lifting the Hyacinths 01 
of boxes in order to put them into bow! 
The roots must have been more or le 
damaged by this operation, and they hav 
been unable to take to the fresh soil. 
would advise you on another occasion to pi 
the bulbs into pots during September or 0 
tober, and cover them up as above advist 
for some weeks until they commence pushir 
up the flower stem, after which you can tal 
them into the greenhouse or dwelling hous 
The low temperature would also be deti 
mental to Hyacinths that have been lift< 
from the soil dry full growth. We are awa 
that this’’ is sometimes done, but the plan 
are usually in full bloom before it is-don 
and then they simply answer for decorati 
purposes for a few days. 
