2 l6 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 28, 1908. 
Sweet Peas. 
WORK FOR MARCH. 
The principles of that which is popu¬ 
larly known as nitro-culture have already 
been explained in this column, but so 
much has recently been heard of it that 
further remarks will not be out of place. 
Nitro-Culture. 
It cannot be gainsaid that the idea of 
innoculating Sweet Peas and other plants 
of the same order with bacteria possess¬ 
ing the power of obtaining nitrogen from 
the air and passing it on for the use of 
the plants is a thoroughly scientific one, 
and in view of the^importance of nitrogen 
to plant life and of the prospect of the 
at-present available sources of that ele¬ 
ment becoming exhausted, it is possible 
that recent discoveries may become of 
economic importance. When, however, 
we consider the value of the principle in 
helping the growth of Sweet Peas in our 
gardens, it is to be feared that no benefit 
whatever can Ire derived from it, except 
in the case of poor unmanured soil. This 
is not merely a personal opinion, but it 
has been borne out by numerous experi¬ 
ments under the highest authorities, both 
scientific and commercial, and although 
many important growers have* tried nitro- 
culture, I do not know of any case of 
benefit being derived from it. I think 
the general finding has been that plants 
grown with nitro-culture without manure 
could not be compared with those grown 
with manure but without the culture. In 
cases where the culture has been applied 
to some plants, but not to others growing 
under the same conditions, the results 
have shown no difference between them. 
Those who wish to try for themselves 
can still do so, for the necessary steps are 
very simple, and instructions are gener¬ 
ally supplied with the packets containing 
the culture, while some firms supply seed 
already treated. While it is unlikely that 
benefit will be obtained, it is equally 
unlikely that any harm ran be done by 
the culture. 
Main Batch Sowing. 
Those who have not yet sown their main 
batch of seed should do so at once, for in 
most instances it will be found that the 
earlier the seed is sown now, the better 
will be the results. 
Planting Out. 
The time has now arrived also when 
thought should be given to the planting 
out of plants raised under glass, for the 
first half of April is about the most suit¬ 
able. When the plants are from a green¬ 
house, they must be thoroughly hardened 
in a cold frame, especially if they have 
had any heat. 
Soil that has not yet been prepared 
should be seen to at once, and, if neces¬ 
sary, trampled down to make it firm. If 
it was trenched late in the season, there 
is always a great danger that it will not 
be firm enough. 
Sweet Peas from Cuttings. 
Most readers know by this time that 
Sweet Pea cuttings will root easily. If 
the top three inches are taken off plants 
five inches high, no harm will be done 
to the seedlings, but I have not found the 
new plants so strong as those from seed. 
However, those who wish to increase their 
stock of a new variety may try this 
method. The cuttings root more easily 
if kept a little close, but do not require 
any heat. Directly new leaves begin to 
form they must be hardened off, so that 
they can be placed in full light and air, 
otherwise they are sure to grow spindly, 
which is fatal to their well-being. 
Growing in Clumps and Rows. 
Although the Sweet Pea has achieved 
remarkable popularity, its value as a de¬ 
corative object in the garden has not ye f 
been properly realised. To be used to 
the best advantage to this end it should 
be grown in clumps, preferably consist¬ 
ing of one variety each. The clump sys¬ 
tem is not recommended as being condu¬ 
cive to better flowers, the quality and 
quantity being about equal, but in a 
small garden where all the Sweet Peas 
are not grown together in one plot, clumps 
are preferable to rows. The latter sys¬ 
tem is more suitable when large quanti¬ 
ties are grown together. 
If there is one case in which the clump 
system is more valuable than in any 
other, it is that of the long borders about 
four feet or so wide that are found in so 
many amateur’s gardens. Whein it is 
desired to grow Sweet Peas in such posi¬ 
tions it is often the practice to make rows 
running parallel to the fence and about 
a foot away from it, and to grow other 
flowers in front of the Peas. Such close 
proximity to the fence is against the well 
being of the Peas and they cannot be ex¬ 
pected to produce the finest results. The 
better practice is to have a series of 
clumps, each taking up a good portion of 
the width of the border, and to grow the 
other plants in Between the clumps. It 
is better if other plants are not planted 
within two feet or more of the Sweet 
Peas. The clumps themselves, if pos¬ 
sible, should have at least six feet be¬ 
tween them. 
A word or two as to the formation of 
clumps should be useful. Sweet Peas 
planted out from pots can be used, three 
potfuls a yard apart in the form of an 
equilateral triangle can be trained to 
make excellent clumps, or, if five or six 
plants are raised in one pot, they will 
alone make a splendid clump. Mr. 
Curtis’s book on Sweet Peas shows a pic¬ 
ture of a fine clump that was the result 
of only one plant. 
Repot if the Weather be Unfavourable. 
The gardener should wait till the soil is 
fairlv dry and easy to work before he 
plants out the Sweet Peas that have been 
raised in pots. If there is a long spell 
unfavourable weather, and if the pots j 
full of roots, it is better to re-pot intc 
larger size than to attempt to plant ou 
Small twiggy supports should be p 
vided before the plants show a tendency 
become top-heavy and to fall over. Tjv 
twigs are sometimes required while tl 
are still in the pots. 
In planting out, the ground should 
made fairly firm, and a little potting 5 
—not too rich—may be used. As 
general rule it is unwise to give any mi 
manure before the plants are almost 
flower. 
Birds and slugs will have to be guarc 
against, or they will soon destroy a gc 
collection. 
G. F. Draysox 
-- 
The Saturday Half-Holiday. 
A Letter to the Editor. 
Dear Sir,—After reading the remarks 1 
your correspondent on the Saturday h, 
holiday, I am with him fully agreed a- - 
the great benefit it would confer on g 
deners, and I ask why not gardeners h, 
their weekly half-holiday as well as shi 
assistants and others who work k 
hours? Many gardeners, espeaV 
single-handed, would greatly w-elcomei; 
holiday as a means towards study, who 
by the ( y might better understand th 
work, and this extra time spent on stu< 
ing would be greatly welcomed by mr 
who desire to get on. This is an impc 
ant reason why I advocate the holid. 
The points he mentioned in his remar, 
no doubt, will find many supporters, 1. 
1 would especially devote my view to • 
great benefit that would occur to ■ 
single-handed gardener by more time ■ 
ing allowed for studying, as I think ' 
gets tqo little time for this branch : 
work—a more important point which ; 
greatly lost sight of. 
G. Atkinson 
Wath-on-Dearne. 
-- 
Saplings from Plum Tries, 
A Letter to the Editor. 
Sir, — I have a garden infested with 
lings running off from Plum trees. 1 
have always cut them off with the sp;.“ 
whenever I came upon them. But $ 
soon as the crops came up, Or before. > 
came the saplings, together with - 
crop, so that they could not be got at w:- 
out destroying both. I am now grubb; 
them up, and digging a trench at a <- 
tance of six feet round the trees and gr- 
bing up all the roots I can find to 
depth of two and half feet. 
This means a lot of labour, as I 1 
mv own gardener. I have got, howet. 
a splendid tool for- the job in A. and ■ 
Parkes’ special light Colonial matto- 
This is, I think, a new tool, and all f 
deners should possess one for use arncl 
the trees, etc. I am wondering wt 
effect this drastic treatment will have i 
next season’s fruit crop. Has any 0 
tried it ? 
Bristol. 
P. C. Mullins 
