232 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 4, i 
this prevents the decay proceeding fur¬ 
ther. Do not prune Briers and single 
Roses, it is enough to cut out the dead 
and dying wood. 
Planting left over must now be com¬ 
pleted as early as possible. Beds for Tea- 
scented Roses must be prepared as early 
as possible, so that they may be planted 
out towards the end of this month or early 
in May. 
Roses in pots are supplied by many 
nurserymen for the purpose of being-plan¬ 
ted out at any time. This is a great con¬ 
venience sometimes, but I prefer to stand 
by the old system of planting in Novem¬ 
ber, so that the roots may be spread out 
in entirely new soil and become well 
established with a good grip of the ground 
as soon as possible. This gives far better 
results than we can obtain from planting 
out pot plants. 
Watering. —All recently planted trees 
must be copiously watered and the 
ground well stirred, being left somewhat 
rough by not raking it. 
Suckers will now begin to be very 
troublesome, especially on maiden stan¬ 
dards, and must be entirely removed, or 
they will rob your plants of much of their 
vigour. A spud is a good implement for 
making a way down to where the sucker 
starts, then cut it clean away with a sharp 
knife, being careful not to damage the 
roots. As soon as suckers show remove 
the robbers. If taken in time you can 
pull them out of their sockets, which is 
a good plan, as then they will not grow 
again, as is the case when cut away, 
especially so if the least bit is left be¬ 
hind. 
Pests may now easilv be found. Rose 
grubs (if the signs indicating their pre¬ 
sence are known! can now be readily dis¬ 
covered in the shoots and young leaves. 
Maiden shoots and 'buds should be ex¬ 
amined frequently, for they are least able 
to stand the pest, which will soon destroy 
them if they are allowed to go unchecked. 
Destroy as promptly as you discover them 
all kinds of pests, for if neglected they 
will soon get the upper hand of you. 
Hoeing should now be practised regu¬ 
larly, so that the soil may be kept fairly 
fine and quite pervious to light, heat, air 
and moisture. On no account allow a 
hard, impervious crust to form upon the 
surface. 
Manuring. — You may now very 
cautiously apply liquid manure to all 
plants except dwarf maidens. We must 
not forget that as growth progresses the 
plants require a moderate amount of food 
with a little stimulant, to prevent flag¬ 
ging. On no account give very strong or 
concentrated manures, “but at all times a 
weak, diluted manure is desirable, and 
can do no harm; to increase its power 
apply more often. 
Potash,, sulphate of ammonia and phos¬ 
phorus are required to promote the growth 
of healthy and beautiful foliage. Kainit 
is the best form of potash for present use, 
as its action is slower and it contains salt 
in its most beneficient form, this being a 
necessity for leaf formation. 
Superphosphates contain lime and 
phosphorus in their best form for present 
administration — sulphate of ammonia 
supplies the necessary sulphur and nitro- 
gen. 
A watering on different days with a 
weak solution of each of these is probably 
the best method of using them during this 
month. The three manures may be mixed 
if desired. 
A weekly watering with a very weak 
solution of sulphate of iron will prepare 
good-coloured leaves now and richly- 
coloured flowers hereafter. It also makes 
the plants proof against many diseases. 
I use about an ounce of sulphate of iron 
to each gallon of water for application 
during this month. 
Indoors. — 'Cut back Marechal Niel and 
other climbing Teas and Noisettes gradu¬ 
ally, as the blooms are gathered ; in the 
case of those Roses of which the first 
bloom is over, weak and warm liquid 
manure must now be applied by immers¬ 
ing therein the pots of Roses intended to 
flower a second time. 
Thinning. —The pushing buds of 
H.P.’s must now be well thinned as soon 
as possible; examine the shoots left for 
pests. 
General Routine. — See that the 
stakes are firm and in good condition. 
See that the labels remain legible. Tie 
up maiden shoots as soon as you can; if 
left too long they will grow away from 
the stake and cause trouble. Do not 
forget to guard against unexpected frosts. 
Baynton-Taylor. 
Bath. 
--- 
PREPARING . . 
- GEhEHY - 
If not already done, no time should be 
lost in preparing the trenches for the re¬ 
ception of the plants. It is always advis¬ 
able to prepare the trenches as early in 
the season as possible, before the plant¬ 
ing period. The position most suitable 
for Celery is an open one, hence the 
reason so many leave sufficient space for 
Celery trenches between the rows of Peas, 
which, sheltering somewhat the young 
plants when first planted, are over and re¬ 
moved sufficiently soon to allow the de¬ 
sired openness when the plants are in full 
growth. 
Fig. l —Celery trench taken out. 
Taking out the Trenches.—To take ; 
the trench, lay down two lines the 1 
length of the ground 18 inches-from eh 
other for a single row, or 2 ft. for a dot e 
row. Next ’proceed to take out the 1 
between this space to a depth of al it 
r8 inches. Place in the Irottom s< t - 
well-decayed manure (stable dung, , r 
preference) to a depth of i ft. Treait 
down firmly and cover with a few in. ;5 
of soil, when the whole is complete, r. 
i shows how to take the trench ;. 
Fig. 2, the trench properly prepared. 
Fig. 2.—Celery trench refilled.. 
A word of caution — it is a great mis ke 
to have the trenches too deep for par¬ 
ing; 4 to 6 ins. below the surfac is 
ample. Again, the sides of the tren e; 
when finished should be a little on he 
incline, not perfectly perpendiculars' 
this hinders the trenches from receipt' 
the 'full benefit of the rains. Whe a 
separate piece of ground is given on to 
this useful vegetable, the distance >e- 
tween the trenches should be from 4 j 
fe^t. M. 
-- 
Studley College Agricultural Journal. 
In the March number of this quart ly 
a photographic reproduction of War ck 
Castle should be of interest to those ho 
have been at this School of Horticul re 
or intend going there. A rather inter!; 
ing chapter is that on “The Struggl cu 
Plants with Their Environments.’ in 
which W. B. Grove, M.A., shows f"' 
easy it is to make a mistake concern;.; 
seeds which are sowm by the ways n. 
Some people have a notion that if cy 
sow seeds of anything on the hedgeb k> 
or by the wayside that they will grow mi 
flourish. The chances are that if he 
seeds are not eaten by birds that ey 
may simply germinate and then give -’er 
the contest, completely 7 unable to conni 
in. the struggle for existence -with he 
manv plants which already 7 hold po? 7 - 
sion. Nevertheless, we do find foign 
plants making slight headway in pies, 
though, as a rule, they 7 have got to nd 
the ground vacant in order to reach he 
flowering stage, after which they may’n- 
tirely 7 disappear again. 
