April 4, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
235 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
orld, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
,ver any branch of gardening. Questions 
.ould be as brief as -possible and written on 
,e side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
, paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
is best use of this column are invited to 
epare and forward to us a rough outline 
\ awing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
is position of beds and lawns, the charac¬ 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
-flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
t»mrnTrr'STd* * 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
35. Hot Water Plant. 
Would you kindly tell me the proper name 
c a pretty flowering plant commonly called 
fat Water Plant, and if it is raised from 
sd, or how propagated, and also if it is 
pper to water it with hot water, as the 
!me by which it is known appears to sug- 
*t? (J. T. Reddish, Lincolnshire.) 
vVe do not know a plant under the name 
m mention. You did not tell us where you 
4 the name. We fear it is only a local 
rme, or one that has recently been given, 
bur best plan wpuld have been to have sent 
i a specimen, and then we should have been 
tie to get some idea of what you know as 
t'; Hot W T ater Plant. If you can spare a 
prfeot leaf, we will name it for you if it 
iin any way well known. There are many 
fints that live in hot water, if you mean 
pints that would grow in a temperature of 
1 degs. to 90 degs. 
I 36. Bulbs Not Flowering:. 
4t the beginning of the season I wrote for 
apuanitdty of bulbs to a dealer, and amongst 
ciers I have a quantity of bulbs of which 
Lend you a sample. Will you kindly say 
v.at it is. From the way they come up I 
trnght they were a kind of Tulip, but there 
inot one of them flowering. The roofs are 
vy strong, and they look healthy and very 
petty, but no flowers. (Nemo, Lancs.) 
The plant you sent us does lcok like some 
< the late-flowering Tulips in their early 
:.ges, but we take it to be a small bulb of 
'3 Capie Hyacinth, and scarcely half big 
ough to flower. This would be Galtonia 
odicans, but the bulbs were altogether too 
gall to put into p>ots for flowering. It 
1 uld have been better if you had planted 
t m out 'in a sunny border to attain flower- 
ip size. If your soil is heavy spread a good 
camtity of leaf mould and sand on the sur- 
f e, dig it over to mix them with the soil, 
ad then plant the bulbs about 5 in. or 6 in. 
<$p. The bulb you sent was healthy and 
riking vigorous growth. All that you can 
c with them now is to let them complete 
t ir growth, either in a greenhouse cr in a 
cd frame. Keep them well watered while 
t leaves remain fresh and gradually with- 
it d water when the leaves begin to turn yel- 
ly. That wall not happen until well on in 
snmer. Possibly you only sent us a small 
b b, and if so some of them may yet be 
ge enough to flower. We know that many 
til bulbs of this plant are put on the mar- 
but it is scarcely fair to those unac- 
linted wiith the plant. When they attain 
full size in the open ground they will send 
up a stem 3 ft. to 4 ft. high or more, bearing 
a long raceme of white, bell-shaped, droop¬ 
ing flowers. 
2737. Daffodils and Tulips Unsatis¬ 
factory. 
Can you oblige me with the cause of the 
foliage of Narcissus, Daffodils, etc., hang¬ 
ing over the boxes and pots before they get 
fully grown and the blooms expanded? 
They were covered with about 4 in. of ashes 
and planted in a mixture of Kent loam, leaf 
mould, silver and sea sand. I treated them 
in the usual way on bringing them into heat 
for forcing. I am of opinion it is the sea 
sand or too many ashes have been put on 
them. I also wish to know the cause of 
bulbs, especially Tulips, not rooting suffi¬ 
ciently. In fact, some Tulips have no roots 
when taken out of the boxes, therefore I got 
only a small bloom from them. (J. S. G., 
Durham.) 
We think it is due to some error of culti¬ 
vation that the leaves of your Daffodils are 
hanging over the sides of the boxes and pots. 
You have probably kept them in too high a 
temperature with the idea of bringing them 
on rapidly, or they were too far away from 
the glass. Both of these conditions would 
cause the leaves to get long and fall over. 
Daffodils are rather peculiar subjects to 
force, and they should not be pressed too 
hard in the early stages, but kept cool and 
near the glass until the flower scapes are 
well advanced. You could then apply more 
heat with the object of bringing them on ear¬ 
lier. At the same time, with a high tempera¬ 
ture you must also give plenty of ventila¬ 
tion. We do not see that the depth of ashes 
over them had anything to do with the 
length of the leaves, unless j'ou allowed the 
leaves to attain too great a length before you 
uncovered them ; ncr do we think that the 
sea sand was in any way against them. We 
think if you pay special attention to these 
particulars another year that you will be 
more successful. There are various causes why 
the Tulips have not rooted properly. For 
instance, you may have put them into heat 
before roots were properly developed. On 
the other hand, the bulbs might be infested 
with the bulb mite, or some fungoid disease. 
You only got a small bloom because that was 
entirely' due to the reserve matter stored up 
in the scales of the bulb itself without the 
assistance of roots. If you have a lens j r ou 
can inspect the bulbs between the scales to 
see if there are any mites, or } T ou could send 
bulbs to us. A good plan with bulbs in¬ 
tended for forcing is to pot them up early, 
say about the beginning of September, and 
plunge them in ashes out of doors, where 
they will be exposed to the weather and the 
rainfall. They should also be fully exposed 
to sunshine in any cold shaded position. 
2738. Treatment of Boronia after 
Flowering'. 
I have two plants of Boroaia which have 
just finished blooming, and now the tiny 
leaves at the base of the plant are turning 
yellow. They are rather pet bound. Can 
you tell me if 1 ought to repot them, and 
give directions how to treat them to secure 
their blooming next year ? (Waratah, 
Devon.) 
You should now cut back last year’s 
straggling shoots about half their length, 
cutting them so as to make a compact and 
symmetrical bush. Then keep the plant on 
the dry side until growth commences again, 
but encourage this by syringing the plants 
and see that the soil does not get too dry. 
It is just possible that you have been allow¬ 
ing your plants to get on the dry side and 
that is a mistake, especially when they' are 
in bloom. They belong to a class of plants 
like the Heaths and must always be kept 
steadily moist, but never sodden. More 
water will be necessary when the young 
shoots begin to push out. When the shoots 
are about full grown, is the best time to re¬ 
pot. After a fortnight to get established in 
the greenhouse you should harden them off 
by standing them in a half shady position 
outside for a week. After that you can stand 
them on a bed of ashes fully exposed to the 
sun from some time in July till the middle 
of September, when you can return the plants 
to the greenhouse. The best soil for potting 
Boronias would consist of equal parts of 
fibrous peat and loam, with one-sixth part of 
sand. Borne cultivators use fibrous peat and 
sand only. You should pot firmly in order 
to make the new material bind with the old, 
otherwise the water will run awaj' by the 
fresh-soil, leaving all the centre dry. You 
will thus see that we advise you to prune 
to encourage growth until the shcots are 
nearly finished, then to summer the plants 
out of dcors and tqke them inside before 
there is any danger of frost. 
2739. Raising Cyclamen. 
(1) Will j'ou kindly tell a new reader the 
best way to grow Cyclamen from seed to 
flowering stage, and about the resting 
period - ? I could command a temperature of 
50 degs. during the winter months. (2) Do 
you think there is any difference in quality 
of seed in Carter’s 2s. 6d. and is. packets, 
cr is it only a matter of quantity? Any' 
hints as to their culture would be much 
appreciated. (H. R., Kent.) 
(1) You should sow the seeds some time in 
the autumn, say, during October or Novem¬ 
ber. Possibly you would even succeed better 
by sowing in September, so that your plants 
may get some size before winter. If j r cu 
can command a temperature of 55 degs. to 
60 degs. the seed will germinate all the bet¬ 
ter. Sandy loam and leaf mould will make 
a suitable compost, using sufficient sand to 
make it porous. You may sow in seed pans 
or boxes, practically planting each seed 1 in. 
from another. Keep the boxes or. pans in a 
warm situation till the first leaf comes above 
the soil, then stand them on a shelf near the 
glass. Lcok after them in the matter of 
watering, not keeping them sodden, but just 
medst. When the plants have made a few 
leaves with a small corm they should be 
potted off separately in 3 in. pots, and then 
stood on a shelf near the glass. If carefully 
lcoked after they should be readj r for an¬ 
other shift into 5 in. pots some time in Tulv. 
During the heat cf summer or bright sun¬ 
shine the plants should be shaded by means 
of some tiffany or other thin material that 
will just break the force of the sun. They 
