2 $2 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April n, 1908. 
some situation lacing the east, where they 
will only get the morning sun. This will 
delay their flowering until you require them. 
2757. The Blue Stoneccop in Pots. 
Some time ago you gave a figure of the 
blue Stonecrop that you said was suitable 
for rockeries and dry situations. Would 
it be suitable for pot work as well, and 
if so, what treatment would you give it ? 
(Jno. Pratt, Cam-bs.) 
The Sedum is quite hardy, but as the seed¬ 
lings are very small, for some time the best 
plan would be to sow the seedlings in pots 
and rear them in a cold frame. You can 
thereby guard them against slugs and other 
enemies of that class. Use quite light and 
sandy soil. When the seedlings have made 
a few leaves you can transfer them into 3-in. 
pots, putting three seedlings, triangular 
fashion, in each pot. By so doing, the pot 
will soon get filled. When the roots are get¬ 
ting round the sides of the pot you can then 
shift them into 5-in. pots, that is,, the 48 
size, in which you can flower them. The 
Sedum is well adapted for this sort of work, 
but its fleshy character indicates that you 
must grow it in an airy atmosphere well ex¬ 
posed to light. A cold frame would supply 
these conditions admirably, and grow the 
plants until they begin to be showy, when, 
of course, you can transfer them to the green¬ 
house or conservatory. They could, indeed, 
be sown in the pots in which they are to 
bloom, but as the seedlings are so small with 
short roots, the chances are that the soil 
would get soured by being subjected so much 
to artificial watering. That is the reason 
why we advocate using small pots at first 
and shifting them on gradually. 
ROOM PLANTS- 
2758. Substitute fos- Ferns. 
I have a large wicker stand with a zinc 
pan 2 ft. in diameter and 6 in. deep. I , 
have had Ferns in it, but should like a 
change, something that would flower and yet 
remain green for the rest of the year. I 
want it to stand in -the window of an airy 
room, facing about south-east. What would 
you suggest? (Burgh Parva, Norfolk.) 
There are many plants suitable for culti¬ 
vation in a window, and we presume that 
you would like flowering plants with ever¬ 
green foliage. Amongst others, you can use 
Begonia weltoniensis, B. metallica, Cam¬ 
panula isophy.Ha, C.i. alba, Echeveria 
secunda glauca, Marguerites or Paris 
Daisies, Saxifraga sarmentosa, and Sedum 
Sieboldii variegata. All of these are flower¬ 
ing plants, and will bloom in a window if 
properly grown. They can, indeed, be 
grown in that situation all the year round. 
There are many other things, however, and 
it depends upon fancy as to which you would 
most Like. For instance, there are numerous 
scented-leaved Pelargoniums, but particu¬ 
larly suitable in this respect are P. Lady 
Plymouth, with white edges to the leaves, P. 
Radula, P. denticulatum, P. tomenitosum, P. 
citrinum, and, of course, single and double 
Zonal Pelargoniums. A neat variegated 
plant is Chlorophytum elatum variegatum, 
and Nepeta Gelchoma variegata makes an 
admirable plant for hanging over the edges 
if the leaves are not likely to be much rubbed 
against. A splendid flowering plant is Val- 
lota purpurea, with, of course, a limited 
amount of foliage, but especially in winter, 
though it is really evergreen if attended to 
with watering. This does not by any means 
include all of the evergreen flowering plants, 
though we have confined the selection to 
those which are most easily managed. Pro¬ 
pagate the Marguerites by cuttings, to main¬ 
tain a supply of small plants. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
2759, Treatment of Japanese Hop. 
How should I treat Japanese H-^ns (Humu- 
lus japonicus) ? I want them to cover rustic 
arches.- If you could reply through your 
‘‘Enquire 'Within” I should feel grateful. 
I thank you for answers to last question re 
hanging baskets, which are quite a success, 
and now coming into bloom.— {Burgh Parva, 
Norfolk.) 
You are now rather late for raising 
Japanese Hops to cover rustic arches. The 
seedlings take some time to get strong, and 
therefore should be sown early, so that they 
can come along slowly. They should, in¬ 
deed, be sown some time in the autumn, say, 
in September or October, and placed in a 
greenhouse, or some similar structure in 
which the frost is just kept out. It does not 
require a high temperature, and if sown 
during the months we mention, the seedlings 
would come up in autumn and keep grow¬ 
ing slowly through the winter. When well 
established they then commence to run, and 
extend over a considerable area in a few 
weeks. The next best time would be to sow 
in February or March in a gentle heat, unaer 
good conditions as to light. It is just possi¬ 
ble you can still, get the plants to cover 
arches by making growth late, instead of 
early in the season. You should sow them 
in small pots of light sandy loam, standing 
the pots in a gentle heat. One seed only 
should be placed in a pot, because one plant 
will cover a considerable area. It is merely 
waste of seed to put more than one in a pot, 
as you can afterwards plant them at any 
desired distance apart, 
2760. Planting Out Sweet Peas. 
I have a lot of nice healthy looking seed¬ 
lings of Sweet Peas in a cold frame, some 
in pots and some in boxes. I enclose 
one of the biggest for you to see the 
size. I keep the lights off the frame all 
the day. I am going away for my holidays 
from nth April to 28th April. May I put 
the seedlings in the open before I go, or 
would it be better to leave them until my 
return ? I have a south border to plant them 
in, but, of course, Margate winds are keen. 
(N. E. C., Kent.) 
We think it largely depends upon whom 
you leave in charge of the Sweet Peas while 
you are gone. On the other hand, 28th 
April is getting rather late. We, therefore, 
think the best plan would be to plant them 
out at once in the situation you have pre¬ 
pared for them. You can guard against 
wind by putting in some short twiggy sticks, 
that will break the wind. For instance, ’ if 
the planting had been done early in March, 
some branches of an evergreen tree, such as 
Spruce, Boxwood, or Laurel, stuck in upon 
the side from which the wind is prevalent 
would furnish sufficient shelter for the young 
plants. We should not hesitate, therefore, 
to put them out at once. If would be a good 
plan to put some black cotton thread along 
each side of the rows of Peas, so as to keep 
sparrows away in your absence, if you are 
troubled with such pests. 
2761. Plants Under Shade of Cherry 
T ree. 
I shall be obliged if you would answer 
in next week’s issue. I have a garden with 
a path in the middle, a close wooden fence 
on one side and a Privet hedge on the other, 
with roots growing right under half way to 
the path. The mould is very fine, not a bit 
clayey, and no hold in it. Each corner at 
this end is rather damp, as there are Cherry 
■trees on one side coming over from the next 
door. Will you tell me what kind of cheap 
flowers I can grow from seeds in it best ? 
Also, I. am making a trellis arch, what 
rambler will be best to plant over it to last? 
(L. Collins, Essex.) 
We fear the conditions you mention are 
not very suitable to plant growth where the 
roots of the Privet run through the border. 
Trees are very handsome in their way, pro¬ 
ducing shelter and giving a rustic appear¬ 
ance to the home,- but at the same time they 
are often brought too close together, especi¬ 
ally in small gardens. In the damp por¬ 
tion partly shaded by the Cherry trees, we, 
have selected some annuals which, with care 
to get them established, would, we think 
bloom there. They are Nemophila insigais’ 
N. atomaria, N. disooidalis, Phacelia cam- 
panularia, and Eutoca viscida. The first-i 
named and the two last have blue flowers, 
and as they succeed under a certain amount 
of shade, we think you could grow them 
under_ those conditions. Seeds are offered 
by most seedsmen of those things. Instead 
of relying upon annuals which require re¬ 
newing every year, and may not always be 
satisfactory, we think it would be a better 
plan to get together a stock of perennial 
plants that would grow under those condi¬ 
tions. For instance, London Pride (Saxi¬ 
fraga umbrosa), S. Geum, and S. Aadrewsi; 
have evergreen leaves, and bloom during 
May and June. The Woodruff also bloom; 
early, and would thrive where various other 
things fail. Rose of Sharon or St. John! 
Wort (Hypericum calycinum) thrives under 
rather dry conditions, even amongst the root; 
of. trees. The same may be said of the Peri 
winkles (Vinca minor and V. major), oi 
which there are several varieties differing ir 
the colour of the flowers, and in bavin; 
green or variegated leaves. Very handsome 
indeed is V. major elegantissima, with ligh 
yellow edges to the leaves passing into white 
Several of the Sedums would grow in tha 
dry border, including S. reflexum, S. rupes 
tre, S. stoloniferum, and others. It wouk 
be worth while getting together a number o: 
those perennials, as they would live when 
annuals would often fail, especially unde 
the shade of trees. Some hardy bulbs migk 
be planted amongst them to give you flower 
in spring. 
2762. Edging Plant. 
Last year I observed a very pretty edgm, 
plant, and was told it was Echeveria. I 
looked very much like a Houseleek, but th. 
leaves were not green, but had a pale, wax- 
look. Can you give me its correct name 
and say whether it is raised from seeds o 
how? (R. S. Dugdale, Herts.) 
Front your description and the purpose t 
which it^was put, we have no doubt the plan 
in question was Echeveria secunda glauca 
which is very much used for edging witl 
fine effect. It may be raised from seeds 
but they are so very small that it would tak- 
you a number of years to get plants to ful 
size. The plant is easily obtainable fron 
the nurserymen, and may be had by the doze: 
or hundred. In the winter time a cold fram 
will be sufficient shelter to keep it alive 
when it can be planted out again at the en< 
of May. The frame must be water-tight 
as damp is the chief thing to be feared wit 
this plant. 
2763. Dwarf Wallflowers. 
What is the best time to sow Wallflower t 
get dwarf plants to bloom in April an< 
May ? I had a fine lot last 3’’ear, but abou 
half of them got killed soon after Christmas 
Are some kinds tender ? ( Wm. Goode, Glot 
ce-ster shire.) 
Wallflowers usually do best if given 
twelvemonth from the time they are sow 
till the time they should be in bloom. The 
may commence to bloom in April, but th 
best display usually occurs during May. 1 
depends largely upon the situation in whic 
they are planted. Tall plants are liable t 
get killed in winter, chiefly owing to th 
fro-st checking the flow of sap, when th 
leaves affected may or may not recover, 
depends upon how long the frost lasts. Yot 
best plan will be to sow seeds in the ope 
ground about the beginning of May, an 
transplant them into other soil before the 
get^too crowded in the bed. If your so 
is light or loose the best plan will be to trea 
