300 
/HE GARDENING WORLD. Ma y 1908 
cape the pressure. The only sure way is 
to unroll the leaf and be certain you have 
killed the enemy, or to pluck it off and 
burn it right away. If one shoot has 
several leaves rolled, you must seek him 
in the top one, which is the leaf least 
injured. He is steadily working his way 
up to the bud. If you prefer pinching, 
keep on at the game until you feel you 
have really squashed him. 
The best way is to keep the plants in 
vigorous health for then aphides, scale 
and red spider will not touch them for 
they much prefer weak and- delicate 
plants. 
Late pruning after the plants have burst 
into leaf is the best method of preventing 
caterpillar and grub attacks — after such 
pruning you will find a considerable re¬ 
duction in thq_ number of caterpillars, 
for their eggs being laid in the bursting 
buds at the top of the shoots are cut away, 
and ought to be destroyed in the fire, with 
the parts removed. 
Moths, however beautiful and innocent¬ 
looking, must be watched for by night and 
by day, and ruthlessly destroyed. 
Mignonette grown near Roses will keep 
off flies, which detest its perfume, and 
which, though little suspected, do much 
injury by infecting the plants with various 
contagious diseases. The “worm in the 
bud” may be found even as early as April. 
It is like"a fat brown maggot, which spins 
a thread to tie the leaves together to 
make his hiding-place, by which he can 
also let himself down to the ground and 
return to his concealment after you have 
ceased to seek him there. A relative of 
his has a dark green body with a black 
head, and so quickly does he drop to the 
ground at the least sign of attack that 
vou may easily miss him unless you ex¬ 
amine the ground as well as the tree. 
Look well for the Phygalia, which 
simulates the appearance of a dead leaf 
stalk so well that he is often easily over¬ 
looked. The aphis is best destroyed by 
the aphis brush. Some people prefer to 
remove the green fly with finger and 
thumb, but in this way many escape, and 
only a few may soon become millions. 
The brush is the most effective weapon. 
The syringe, with its mixture of soft 
soap and quassia chips in water, and 
spraying over and under the leaves with 
some good insecticide (also spray stems 
and all the plant to make sure that no foe 
escapes) are great helps which should be 
constantly employed. 
Frog-hoppers (cuckoo spit), ants, ear¬ 
wigs, weevils, thrips, red spider and all 
the host of Rose enemies, will yield to 
the foregoing methods. Never allow any 
enemy to escape; as soon as you see him, 
kill him. There is no sense in allowing 
even one of those fast-breeding foes to 
escape. 
The Rose has insect friends as well as 
. foes— these must obviously be spared. 
Ichneumon flies destroy many kinds of 
deadly insects. The ladybird, the lace¬ 
wing fly, and a few others, are most help¬ 
ful allies. 
Mildew— and other fungoid pests — must 
be dealt with as soon as they appear, but 
if you keep the plants in good health these 
will not trouble you. I will deal with 
these in another paper. A good magni¬ 
fying glass is a great help in the detec¬ 
tion of Rose enemies. 
We must remember May has its frosts. 
A reliable thermometer will generally 
warn you before sunset of an approaching 
attack; when it is threatened at once af¬ 
ford your plants protection. As a rule 
thin muslin or some other light material 
is sufficient for the present season. 
See that every shoot is firmly and 
closely tied to its support. Raffia tape is 
the best of all materials. 
Each plant now needs frequent indi¬ 
vidual attention; thin shoots of Teas, dis¬ 
bud early trusses and remove suckers as 
soon as they appear. Apply liquid 
manure, especially to those plants which 
show flower buds ; hoe frequently, especi¬ 
ally after rain or applications of liquid. 
If there has been much rain during the 
There is, I think, no phase of amateur 
gardening so fascinating as the culture 
of hardy aquatic plants. They add a de¬ 
lightful charm and novelty to the garden, 
are easily managed, and inexpensive; so 
that the amateur with a very small space 
at command can grow them. 
Arrangement of Tubs. 
Though usually seen in ponds or run¬ 
ning streams, in gardens I will endeavour 
to show how they can be successfully 
grown in tubs. Empty petroleum casks 
answer admirably, cut in half, and the in¬ 
sides thoroughly charred with a lighted 
wisp of straw so as to remove all trace of 
oil. Three casks, halved, would provide 
six tubs, one for water supply and five for 
plants. The supply-tub may be located 
on the level ground in any out-of-the-way 
place, behind shrubs or climbing plants. 
A tap and supply-pipe will convey water 
to the other tubs, which are sunk an inch 
or two below the surface of the ground, 
with an inch fall between each tub, all 
being connected by pipes. Few or many 
may be used according to the space to be 
utilised, and placed at such a distance 
apart as fancy may dictate. The spaces 
between may be formed into a rock gar¬ 
den for choice alpine plants, and the 
lowest tub surrounded with a good depth 
of peat, leaf mould and decayed vegetable 
matter, mixed with a little loam. This 
may be kept sufficiently moist by the over¬ 
flow of water, to grow, successfully, a se¬ 
lection of choice bog plants, such as Iris 
Kaempferi, Parnassia palustris, Cypripe- 
dium spectabile, and other bog Orchids 
and plants delighting in a moist situa¬ 
tion. 
Soil and Planting. 
Having satisfactorily arranged the 
water supply so as to ensure a constant 
flow, a 6 in. or 8 in. layer of good, loamy 
soil from the kitchen garden, which con¬ 
tains a good proportion of decayed 
manure, should be placed at the bottom 
of the tub, and the roots of the plant 
spread over the surface and covered with 
two inches of the same compost, upon 
which flat stones are placed to keep the 
plant in position. Over this a 3 in. layer 
of compost completes the operation of 
planting. 
The tap of the supply tub should be 
turned on about one-fourth, and although 
the water, as it fills the Various lubs, will 
be discoloured for a short time, it will 
last two months, apply a light dressing 
of artificial manure. 
Teas on sunny walls will bloom towards 
the end of the month; cut off the flowers 
before they begin to seed. Marechal 
Niel Roses (indoors) will be cut back by 
slow degrees to the original wood as the 
Roses have been gathered. Harden off 
pot plants by slow degrees after they have 
bloomed that they may be planted out in 
June. 
May must be a very busy month if we 
are -to reap hereafter a due realisation of 
our present anticipations. 
Baynton-Taylor. 
Somerset. 
soon clarify and settle down. Needless to 
say, the supply-tub should be filled daily. 
Planting Time. 
April, May, and June are the best 
months for this, and so that the plant- 
may not suffer by being kept out of water, 
everything should be in readiness for their 
reception. 
What to Grow. 
Our native Water Lilies are too large 
for tubs, but such grand varieties as the 
following, which are quite as hardy, are 
easily grown: Nymphaea odorata alba, a 
charming kind with white flowers, sweetly 
scented. N.o.a. minor, a “Tom Thumb” 
form of the preceding. N. pygmaea, as. 
its name implies, is the most diminutive 
of all: a lovely little thing; white 
flowers. N.p. Helvola, a pale yellow form 
of the last, with foliage of burnished 
bronze. N. Laydekeri fulgens, fragrant, 
amaranth red. N.L. lilacea and N.L. 
purpurata, lilac and crimson forms. Be¬ 
sides these, Butomus umbellatus (Flower¬ 
ing Rush), a rare native; Pontederia cor- 
data; Aponogeton distachyon (Cape Pond- 
weed) ; and Hottonia palustris (Water 
Violet), are admirable subjects for the 
amateur’s aquatic garden. 
Cotswold Hill. 
-- 
The National Flower Show of U.S.A. 
As we previously announced, a splendid 
flower show is to be held at Chicago from 
November 6th to 15th inclusive this year. 
The Preliminary Premium List is now to 
hand, and shows that prizes are offered 
in several divisions and in 349 classes. 
Some of these prizes are valuable; for in¬ 
stance, ^5 4s. 2d. is offered as a first 
prize for a specimen plant of Chrysanthe¬ 
mum, the second and third prizes being 
respectively £2 2s. 6d. and £2 9s. Sd. 
Similar amounts are offered for a grafted 
specimen Chrysanthemum. The first 
prize for the best group of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums to cover about 100 sq. ft. is £12 
8s. 4d., two others being in proportion. 
At the same show many prizes in dif¬ 
ferent classes are offered for pot plants; 
and cut blooms of Roses. Carnations are 
also well provided for, and various other' 
garden subjects are also taken into ac¬ 
count. The general secretary is Mr. J- 
H. Burdett, 1,411, First National Bank 
Buildings, Chicago. 
AMATEUR’S Aquatic Garden. 
A NOVEL WAY OF GROWING WATER PLANTS. 
