May 2, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
3°7 
soil is more open or Lighter for winter crops 
of this sort. Another point is that you could 
half lift the plants late in the autumn and 
lay them on a sloping angle, say, of about 
45 degs., so that when laid down the faces 
would look towards the north. The sun does 
not then shine upon them early in the morn¬ 
ing when they happen to be frozen. This, 
of course, is only a slight remedy, but the 
lifting of the roots has the effect of checking 
growth, and the stems then get harder by the 
check thus given to growth in the autumn. 
With a portion of the ground devoted to 
purple sprouting Broccoli, you will have 
something to fall back upon in the case of 
a severe winter. 
FRUIT. 
2822. Watering a Vine Border. 
I venture to ask for your advice with re¬ 
gard to a lean-t^- vinery where no fire is 
used. What is the best time to water, and 
the quantity required? The Vines are 
planted inside on about 4 ft. border, and are 
trained on the rod and spur system. There 
is a 2 ft. 'border along the side of the wall 
used for Tomato growing, with a path be¬ 
tween the borders. I should also like to 
know how often to syringe and if stable 
manure will do in place of cow dung, .as 
I cannot get the latter here. The Vines have 
not been top-dressed, but are generally 
watered with juice from the stable. (Novice, 
Lines.) 
With an inside 'border it is usually the 
custom to water 'it with tepid water when 
the Vines are being started. We presume 
that by this time, however, your Vines have 
started. If the soil is really dry, it would 
be necessary to start watering ait once, but 
provided the soil is fairly moist the Vines 
do not require so much watering until after 
the berries have set. Then you can com¬ 
mence and give them a good soaking of water 
once a fortnight or 'three weeks. You need 
not keep the water running on that border 
for any length of time, seeing that .it is only 
4 ft. wide. When you think you have given 
it sufficient for the water to reach all parts 
of the border, you could then apply the 
liquid manure from the stables. There will 
be no particular necessity for diluting it if 
you have previously well watered the bor¬ 
ders. When the Vines are in full growth 
they will, of course, enjoy more water than 
when they are just commencing to grow. 
That is the reason why we should dissuade 
you from watering the border just yet, un¬ 
less it happens to be actually dry. Water¬ 
ing tends to make the border cold, and that 
I is against the Vines in their early stages of 
growth. You can leave off watering when 
the berries commence to colour; or, at all 
events, give supplies with much longer in- 
! tervals between them. On bright days you 
can syringe the Vines about nine or ten 
' o’clock in the morning, and again about three 
| in the afternoon when shutting up the house. 
As ,ht is unheated you should not syringe 
r in the afternoon on dull days. In bright 
warm weather it will do no harm, but- help 
ito keep down Ted spider and other vermin 
I if judiciously applied in the morning and 
again just when about to close the ventila¬ 
tors. The paths should always be ‘damped 
down, even although the foliage is not 
wetted, and that humid atmosphere will pre¬ 
vent the. foliage from getting too dry or 
encouraging ted spider. When syringing, 
use water at .the same temperature as the 
house., that is, it should he taken from a tank 
standing, in the house. Stable manure may 
he used instead of cow dung as a top-dress- 
ing. We should advise you to shake out all 
rank material and not to use too great a 
depth of dung over the border, otherwise 
when wetted it is liable to ferment and do 
damage to the tender Vine leaves. You will 
thus see that a good deal of discretion has 
to be used 'by those who are looking after 
Vines. You should not allow the tempera¬ 
ture to get too high 'before giving ventila¬ 
tion in the early part of the -day. The exact 
time will, of course, depend upon whether 
there is sunshine or not. The temperature 
need not be .higher by night than 55 degs. 
to 60 degs. until the berries are about the 
size of small peas. Then the temperature 
may be allowed to run up higher if you 
desire to get the Grapes to ripen as early as 
possible. You oan economise sunheat by clos¬ 
ing rather early iki the afternoon, earlier or 
later, according to the amount or warmth of 
the sunshine. 
NAMES OF PLANT8 . 
(Lynix) 1, Hippeastrum aul.icum (it .is one 
of the plants popularly known as Amaryllis, 
There seems to be an idea prevalent 
amongst beginners that Spiraeas are a 
delicate family suitable only for pot cul¬ 
ture and the greenhouse, but this is en¬ 
tirely erroneous, as there are many varie¬ 
ties which are quite hardy and which must 
undoubtedly be classed amongst the finest 
of our herbaceous perennials. 
Even S. Ulmaria, the common wild 
Meadowsweet, whose fragrance has doubt¬ 
less added to the joys of many a country 
ramble, is well worthy of a place in some 
damp corner of the herbaceous border or 
shady nook in the shrubbery, if for its 
scent only. 
They are a moisture-loving-race truly; 
indeed, many varieties may be treated' as 
semi-aquatic, and if placed on the mar¬ 
gin of a stream or ornamental water will 
soon become naturalised. For ordinary 
garden culture, however, they delight in 
a deep, fairly light and enriched soil, and 
require when growing an abundance of 
water, and, once the flower-buds have 
formed frequent applications of liquid 
manure will greatly enhance the quality, 
quantity, and lasting properties of the 
blossoms. 
The following are a few good hardy 
sorts, which will prove an acquisition to 
any amateur's garden :— 
S. Aruncus (commonly called Goats- 
beard), a fine handsome plant growing 
some four feet in height. In June and 
July its beautiful foliage is crowned by 
immense panicles of creamy-white blos¬ 
soms. 
S. Filipendula (Dropwort), a commoner 
and dwarfer variety, which makes a grand 
edging to a shrubbery or border of tall 
perennials, and its clusters of delicate 
blossoms thrown well above the . foliage 
often assume a pinkish tint most pleasing 
to the eye. 
S. palmata is so named from its leaves, 
which much resemble those of some 
Palms, whilst its. richly-coloured stems 
and crimson blossoms, borne in great pro¬ 
fusion during late summer (July and Au¬ 
gust), cause it to be ranked by some of the 
best judges as the finest of the group. 
The beautiful and well-known S. 
japonica is slightly more tender, and re¬ 
quires the shelter of a hand-glass, or fail¬ 
ing this, some straw litter or. bracken 
should be pegged down over the crown of 
but is an unimproved species, just as im¬ 
ported from Brazil. It flowers at various 
periods of the year, according to the time it 
is started and the treatment it receives); 2, 
Clivia miniata var. (it is also known as 
Imantophyillum, and is an improved garden 
variety, judging by the size of the leaf). 
(C. M.) 1, Ar.abis albida flore pleno; 2, 
Primula acaulis caulesoens (a garden variety 
of Polyanthus); '3, Vinca major elegarutis- 
sima; 4, Sisyrinchium grandiflorum; 5, 
Crocus vernus var. ; 6, Soilla sibirica; 7, 
Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus Emperor. 
(A. L.) 1, Forsythia suspensa; 2, Prunus 
oerasifera atropurpurea; 3, Erica carnea. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Boulton and Paul, Ltd., Engineers, Nor¬ 
wich.—Norvic Steel Boats. 
the plant during the sharp frosts and dry¬ 
ing winds of spring, otherwise the delicate 
new foliage will severely suffer. On this 
account it is better treated as a pot plant. 
The dormant roots, purchased as im¬ 
ported in autumn or early spring', should 
be potted in a compost of equal parts of 
good loam, leaf mould, and silver sand, 
whilst a little peat may be added with ad¬ 
vantage, and it is a good plan then to 
plunge the pots in fibre or ashes until 
well filled with roots. If required early 
they may then be placed in a gentle beat 
and later on removed to the cool green¬ 
house or conservatory, and the saucer 
containing constantly replenished with 
water. 
This simple treatment, and a judicious 
feeding with some reliable liquid fer¬ 
tiliser as the flowering period approaches, 
will soon render the plants a mass of 
dainty blossom, rivalling those we see and 
admire in the florists’ windows. 
All the varieties named here may be in¬ 
creased by division of roots, whilst the 
Shrubby Spiraeas should be propagated 
by means of cuttings of half-ripened wood 
struck in sandy soil and all air excluded 
until they have formed roots. 
G. A. F. 
-f+4- 
Widow’s Weeds. 
At the Bournemouth Bankruptcy Court 
a widow admitted that she had spent £78 
on grass seed. 
A Beautiful Narcissus. 
Just now there is exhibited in the shop 
window of Mr. John Fleming, florist, Fal¬ 
kirk, a very extraordinary specimen 
flowering bulb of “The Emperor Nar¬ 
cissus.” The bulb occupies a 5^-inch pot, 
from which it pushes up no fewer than 
six scapes, each bearing a fine, large 
bloom, with lemon-coloured perianth and 
bright yellow corona with crumpled 
edges. The stock of which this bulb 
forms a part has been grown by Dir. 
Fleming for some years past in his 
grounds at Comely Park; and as showing 
how well suited to the growth of this 
variety of root' the soil of Comely Park 
is, it may be mentioned that four blooms 
per bulb is quite a common occurrence in 
Mr. Fleming’s culture. 
The - Spiraea - paipilg. 
( '—Hardy Varieties to Grow. 
