334 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May 16, 1908. 
and form a most useful class of winter - 
flowering plants. The erect-growing varie¬ 
ties require more severely cutting back than 
those which are of a more pendent halbit, 
and plants which were pruned in March or 
early April after flowering will by this time, 
if kept in a genial atmosphere, be full ot 
new growths. Such plants may now be re¬ 
potted, if necessary, and a compost of four 
parts of sound fibrous peat to one part of 
silver sand. Sufficient crocks must be placed 
in the pots to ensure thorough drainage,- 
and the new soil pressed firmly round the 
old ’ball with a potting stick, the roots not 
being disturbed more than is necessary dur¬ 
ing the operation. After re-potting little 
water should be given for a time, although 
the foliage may be lightly syringed occa¬ 
sionally. Keqp- the plants rather dose till 
they become established, when they will re¬ 
quire more sun and ventilation to prepare 
them for their summer treatment outside. 
Propagating Abutilons. 
Abutilons are most useful plants, either 
for the greenhouse or for summer bedding 
purposes, and may be propagated by means 
of cuttings taken of the young growths and 
inserted in pots of leaf mould, loam and 
silver sand in equal parts, whilst a little 
peat may be added to the compost with ad¬ 
vantage. If placed in a temperature of 
60 degs to 65 degs. they will soon root and 
form nice little plants. There are numerous 
varieties, some of which may be grown as ■ 
standards; others, again, are adaptable for 
training on wires under the roof of the 
greenhouse or conservatory,, or if the main 
stem is Icosely attached to one of the up¬ 
right support and the siide-shoots be al¬ 
lowed to droop gracefully at will, the effect 
is very pleasing and ornamental. As they 
may be readily increased at nearly any sea¬ 
son, it is by no means difficult to have plants 
in bloom almost throughout the year. When 
grown in pots, thorough drainage is essen¬ 
tial, for failure is inevitable if the water 
is allowed to stagnate around the roots. 
Vines in the Greenhouse. 
Many amateurs successfully grow Grapes 
in the mixed greenhouse, although it goes 
without saying that a structure set apart 
specially for their accommodation is far 
preferable, as the treatment they require 
differs in many respects from that which -i’s 
essential for the welfare of many other 
greenhouse favourites, and if the vine is 
allowed to occupy too much roof space the 
heavy foliage will obstruct the light and 
cause the “ drawing up ” of the plants on 
the stages beneath. The well-known Black 
Hamburg is perhaps one of the most suitable 
for amateur treatment, and for the reason 
stated above should be grown on what is 
known as the “spur system.” As the fruit 
swells and the bunches become crowded they 
will require thinning, and this should be 
done with care, or a sudden ill-judged snip 
with the scissors may cut off more than is in¬ 
tended. Carefully guard against cold cur¬ 
rents of air and syringe freely on fine after¬ 
noons, keeping a keen look-out the while for 
all insect pests. 
A Pretty Flowering- Shrub. 
A pretty yellow flowering plant is Cytisus 
racemosuis, and lasting in bloom as they do 
for a considerable period, are a decided ac¬ 
quisition to any amateur’s greenhouse. 
Plants that are now in flower will require 
liberal supplies of water, and an occasional 
application of liquid rpanure will prove 
beneficial. Any early or forced plants that 
have finished blooming should have all 
dying blossoms or seed-ipods removed, and 
when busy with the knife may be cut. back 
to the old wood,, or nearly so, at the same 
time. This operation satisfactorily carried 
out, it is well to keep- them close for a time 
to induce the formation of new shoots, and 
when active growth again commences they 
may be re-potted, if necessary, after which 
they should be replaced in genial quarters 
till established. In addition to the popular 
C. racemosus there is- another first-rate green¬ 
house variety'known as C. canariensis, whidh 
is somewhat later in flowering and less ro¬ 
bust in growth. • 
G. A. F. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
General Remarks. 
We are now reaching the season of the 
year when Orchids in all the divisions of 
our houses are in more or less active growth. 
It is at the early season of the year that so 
much depends, that I am led to think that 
a few notes on various .conditions of general 
culture, which may help to produce satisfac¬ 
tory results, may be of service to readers 
of the Gardening World. In the first place 
I would point out that particular methods of 
potting, although advisable in themselves, 
are not altogether essential in the successful 
culture of Orchids. I hold that far more 
depends on affording the right conditions 
in our atmosphere and temperature, and 
therefore would impress on the notice of 
the reader that particular attention be given 
to obtain the conditions required for the 
plants at his disposal, not at one particular 
season of the year only, but to study the 
nature of the plants in such a manner that 
we shall be able to apply the methods which 
will be found most suitable for them, and 
that we may thus be able to produce the 
most satisfactory results. The different 
genera that form the Orchid tribe are so 
varied and differently constituted, that it 
is impossible fox anyone to become a suc¬ 
cessful cultivator without a close study of 
the nature, not only of eadh genus, but of 
every specific member and variety of each 
genus. I am not insisting here on anything 
more in the cultivation of Orchids than is 
required for the successful culture of any 
genera of plants -under artificial conditions. 
By these remarks I hope I may induce ama¬ 
teur cultivators to take the interest which 
I know to be necessary to enable them to 
produce satisfactory results. 
Temperatures. 
The dormant season, which usually fol¬ 
lows the flowering season in Orchids, is that 
in which the plants may he kept as cool as 
possible and in a more or less dry orndi- 
tion of the -potting, but as soon as this season 
of rest is completed and renewed vitality is 
visible in the production of new growths, 
encouragement may be given to the planis to 
assist such growths. As stated above, the 
present being the season when so many new 
growths make their appearance, iiit is desir¬ 
able that th-e temperatures of the house 
should be -kept as even as possible, and as 
growth advances, the heat should be gradu¬ 
ally raised, until the plants reach their full 
growth, when the maximum temperatures 
shoul-d be maintained until the growths and 
pseudo-bulbs have reached maturity. Such 
conditions as those recently experienced out¬ 
side will naturally have caused fluctuations 
of temperatures, -but this must be guarded 
against as far as possible by the discreet 
use of the roof blinds and ventilators by 
day, and the heating apparatus when neces¬ 
sary, and thus as even a temperature as 
possible be maintained. 
Atmospheric Moisture. 
There are many of our Orchids which 
commence growing and will advance their 
growths to a very considerable extent with 
little or no application of moisture to the 
roots, providing that the moisture in the 
atmosphere be maintained in a suitable state. 
Amateurs are far too anxious to give water 
when growth first appears. If they would 
give greater attention to preventing the dry 
atmospher ic state of their houses more satis¬ 
factory growth would result. The condi 
tioms prevailing outside must govern th< 
amount of atmospheric moisture in thr 
house. With bright sun-shine it is well nigl 
impossible -to overcharge the atmosphere with 
moisture at this season. The stages betwee: 
the pots and floors should be frequemth 
damped during -the day, especially a” 
growth advances, and the atmosphere shoulc 
then be kept near the saturation point. 
H. J. Chapman. 
-- 
Parsley Vea 
Fine Parsley is an essential in ever; 
garden from the largest down to the ver 
smallest, it being in constant demand; i 
is, therefore, necessary that several sot, 
ings be made in order to keep u 
an unbroken supply. Parsley being 
long time germinating in early spring i 
is an excellent plan to make the first sou 
ing in boxes at the end of March, vvhic 
should he filled with equal parts of loar 
and flaky leaf soil, and sufficient sand t 
keep the whole porous. Sow the see 
thinly and cover lightly with fine soil 
When large enough to handle prick or 
the seedlings about 1 in. apart into othe 
boxes and keep them close to the gla: 
to prevent them from becoming drawn u 
spindly. As soon as they becom 
crowded in the boxes gradually harde 
them off by placing them in a cold fram 
prior to planting them outside. A goo 
position for these seedlings is a south ric 
border; and if they are given 6 ins. apa: 
each way very fine plants will be tb 
result, well repaying the extra troubl 
bestowed on them. 
Make another sowing for successio 
during April or May in rows 12 ins. apar 
to be thinned out and used as require< 
If only Parsley were more common 1 
thinned out like other plants, how muc 
better results would be obtained. If a 
extraordinarily large quantity is in coi 
stant demand make another sowing du 
ing June, and treat as before advised. 
The' main sowing for the winter, whit 
is of the utmost importance, should 1 
treated as follows: During July measu: 
put a piece of ground on a side horde 
which has been previously dug and we 
manured, the length and breadth of 
few frames at one’s disposal in case 
bad weather in the autumn. Before ma 
ing this sowing, should the weather 1 
dry, give the ground a good watering tl 
previous evening, and it will then be in 
nice workable condition in the mornii 
for sowing. Sow the seed broadcast rath 
thickly, as the seedlings can 1 
ultimately thinned out as required f: 
use. Keep them well watered duriif 
dry weather, and towards the end of' Se^ 
tember place the frames and lights in- 
position, but keep the lights off all t 
time the weather is open. Rememb 
that frost and snow are detrimental to t ■ 
well doing of Parsley. If lights are n 
available far such things as Parsley 
large amount of frost and snow can 
kept off with .mats, but a few stakes mi} 
be laid across the frames first to preve- 
the mats from falling in. 
L. S. Small. 
