33 8 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May 16, 1908. 
that (the ailment was at the roots.' By being 
water-logged, even, for a short time, shoots 
are unable to perform their functions, and 
then the leaves quickly suffer. Some varie¬ 
ties are more tender than others. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
2855. Shifting- Holly. 
Is it -too late to transplant a Holly which 
is on the lawn, hut is too near -the window 
and darkens the place, especially in dull 
weather? Does it require to have any soil 
about the roots? (T. Birstall, Leicester¬ 
shire.) 
The present is a very good time for shift¬ 
ing Hollies, provided you can keep a good 
ball of soil about the roots. This can only 
be done by taking out a deep trench all 
round the plant, so that the roots may be 
cut back to this ball of soil. The diameter 
of that ball of soil would depend upon the 
actual size of the tree. Having got down 
to the base of the roots, you can then work 
in beneath it. Before actually wholly under¬ 
mining, some mats should be firmly roped 
round the sides to hold the soil together. 
Then, as you undermine the plant, first on- 
one side and then on the other, you could 
get strong boards underneath the ball by 
which the tree could be lifted out and car¬ 
ried to the place where you wish to plant 
it. The hole for it should he prepared in 
advance. Make the soil quite firm about it. 
Give a good watering and see that it does 
not get dry until it has fairly started into 
growth again. 
2856. Climbers for Summerhouse. 
Will you please advise me what climbers 
to use for a rustic summerhouse ? I wish to 
cover the sides and back with climbers, ever¬ 
green preferred, and front, facing south, 
with two Roses. The situation is open and 
soil is a good loam. (T. W. H., Cheshire.) 
The 'following selection consists of ever¬ 
green shrubs, and would be suitable for 
training on that summerhouse. They are 
Garrya elliptica, Choisya ternata, Cotoneas- 
ter microphylla, C. Simonsii, Elaeagnus 
pungens aureo-maculata, E. glabra foliis 
variegatis, and Berberis stendphylla. Some 
of the variegated Ivies are very handsome 
and might include Hedera Helix variegata 
elegantissima and H.H. palmata aurea. Be¬ 
sides -the Cotoneasters you could also have 
a fine berried plant in Crataegus Pyraoantha 
Lelandi, which ds nearly evergreen. 
2857. Trees for Shelter and Ornament. 
Some months ago I moved into a house 
with a garden to it. There is a planting of 
trees round three sides of the garden about 
nine yards wide. The trees are of various 
kinds, Sycamores, Laburnums, Thorns, Pop¬ 
lars, Beeches, Elms, Chestnuts, most of 
which are 20 ft. to 30 ft. high, hut have bare 
stems for about 12 ft. high. The position is 
open country all ro.und, and is terribly wind 
swept. The south-west and west winds play 
havoc with the shrubs, etc., in beds Nos. 2 
and 3, blowing the leaves into Tibbons of 
Laurels, Rhododendrons, and such like 
things. Originally there was a Thorn hedge 
close to the walls on the three sides where 
the plantations of trees are, now mostly dead 
or very thin, so that between the wall top 
and the heads of the trees there is an open 
space about 6 ft. or 7 ft. in depth through 
which the wind comes with terrible force. 
The brick wall A is new and has nothing on 
it. The border B has standard trees in it 
every five yards apart of Laburnum, scarlet 
Thorns, Chestnuts, Lilacs, etc. The sloping 
bank C is about 4 ft. 6 in. higher at the top 
than the path D. The shrubs on this bank 
across the west end of it suffer from the wind 
like beds 2 and 3, as shown by the accom¬ 
panying plan. I shall be glad if you can 
kindly tell me what to grow against the brick 
wall to cover the same in the way of fruit 
trees or Roses, flowering shrubs or climbers. 
It is about 80 yds. long. Also what will be 
best to make a good screen and shelter round 
the three sides of the plantation, to make up 
the gaps where the Thorns have failed and 
fill the gap between the wall top and the 
heads of the trees. They should be ever¬ 
green, if possible, of fairly quick growth, 
not necessarily all. of one kind. I do not 
care much for Thorn hedges. There are 
several so-called evergreen Privets, but they 
have all lost their leaves and are now no 
screen or even shelter to break the force of 
the wind. What will be best to plant on 
beds 2 and 3 to stand the wind, and also 
on the bank C ? This bank is about 18 yds. 
long and about 4 yds. wide. (Anxious One, 
Yorks.) 
We should not recommend fruit trees for 
a brick wall A that is only 3 ft. high. The 
Roses we think would do well there are 
General Jacqueminot, Mrs. J. Laing, Ulrich 
Brunner, Alfred Colomb, Cramoisie Su- 
perieure, Dupuy Jamain, Fisher Holmes, 
Common Moss, Maiden’s Blush, Old Blush 
Monthly, Stanwell Perpetual, Mrs. R. G. 
Sharman Crawford, Caroline Testouit, La 
France, Gruss an Teplitz, Mine. Abel 
Chatenay, and Mme. Ravary. Shrubs with 
evergreen foliage are Berberis stenophylla 
and B. Darwinii, Cotoneoster microphylla, 
C. Simonsii, C. buxifolia, C. horizontal is, 
Garrya elliptica, and Escallo-nia macrantha. 
Flowering shrubs that might be grown 
against that -low wall are Forsythia sus- 
pensa, which may be trained ou-t laterally 
for 12 ft. to 20 ft., also Crataegus Pyra- 
cantha Lelandi, Berberis vulgaris, B. Thun- 
bergii, Cydonia Maulei, the White Portu¬ 
gal Broom (Cytisus albus), the Brown 
Winged Broom (C. scoparius andreanus), 
Deutzia Lemoinei, Genista tinoto-ria, Ply- 
drangea paniculala grandiflora, Hypericum 
elatum, Lonicera tatarica, Kerria japon.ioa 
fore pleno, Philadelphus coronariu-s, Ribes 
sanguineum, R.s. albidum, Spiraea Anthony 
Waterer, S. Douglasii, S. japonica Bumalda, 
Weigela amabilis, and W. rosea. Shrubs 
with handsomely variegated foliage are 
Cornus alba Spaefhi'i, C.a. variegata, and C. 
Mas elegantissima. In the above you have 
a considerable amount of variety, and all are 
very hardy. With regard to the shelter in 
the plantations labelled E, we do not know 
of a more suitable subject for making a 
hedge Ithan Beech. When planted closely in 
the form of a hedge it retains its leaves in 
winter, in a withered condition, of course, 
and furnishes a great amount of shelter. We 
think it would be worth while to uproot that 
Hawthorn hedge which does not succeed, to 
trench the ground and to plant the Beech 
hedge there. An evergreen tree that would 
be suitable for planting on the wind side 
is the Austrian Pine (Pin.us aiustriaca). Al¬ 
most as suitable is the Scotch Pine (P.-syl- 
vestris). Both of these grow rather slowly, 
especially in exposed positions. We cannot 
imagine that any broad-leaved subject, if 
evergreen, would succeed in such a position. 
The leaves get frozen in winter, when the 
wind breaks them off. For a quick-growing 
subject you can get nothing better than some 
of the Willows, such as Salix smithiana, 
which we have seen planted for shelter at 
an elevation of 1,000 ft. in the Highlands 
and make wonderful growth. Other Wil¬ 
lows might be tried, such as S. alba, S.a. 
vitellima, and more especially S. Caprea. 
All of those should be planted on the out¬ 
side of the existing plantations, both back 
and front, so that they may get light. No 
doubt the Privets, which you describe as 
so-called evergreen, are really evergreen in 
many parts of the country, but if much ex¬ 
posed to wind they do lose their leaves. 
Strong growing and bushy kinds that you 
could plant beneath and amongst the exist¬ 
ing trees are Ligustrum ovaliifolium, L. 
chinense and the common Privet. The Aus¬ 
trian Pine might, however, well be planted 
on the top of that sloping bank C, as it is 
very resistant to wind. The beds marked 2 
and 3 have evidently been, planted for shel¬ 
ter, and as such you cannot expect tender 
things to give very much satisfaction. On 
the windy side, if space would permit, you 
might have a row of Pinus austriaca, and 
inside that you might have the Golden- ! 
barked Willow (Salix alba vitellina), the { 
Red-barked Willow (S.a. britzensis). Most I 
of the other British Willows would also live ; 
on the sheltered side of that line of Austrian j 
Piines, and their narrow leaves would give | 
a very pleasing effect in summer, and are 
well calculated to resist the violence of the 
wind. You thus see that all the subjects i 
which we recommend for windy places have 
narrow leaves, except the Beech. You can 1 
cut the Willows every spring to any desired 
height. 
FRUIT. 
2858. New Beds of Strawberries. 
When should I make a new bed of Straw¬ 
berries for fruiting next year, and how 
should I prepare the ground for it? (Mys¬ 
tery, Soms.) 
The best time for planting a new bed of I 
Strawberries is in August or September. 
During June and July you should be pre¬ 
paring the young layers to see that they get 
properly rooted. The new ground should 
be trenched if it has mot been treated in that 
way for some years, and plenty of cow or 
stable manure mixed with the different layers I 
of soil. Allow this a fortnight or three weeks 
to settle. The Strawberries could then be> 
planted in lines 2 ft. asunder and 18 in. 
apart in the lines. If planted at the time wej 
state you should get a good crop from them 
next year. 
2859. Peach Tree Dying. 
I have enclosed portions of a Peach tree 
Marquis of Downshire. A branch has gra¬ 
dually withered and the whole tree is not' 
looking so healthy as it should. Could you 
tell me what is wrong with the tree, and how 
to stop it from going further? (S. B., 
S. Devon.) 
The piece of wood which you sent gave evi¬ 
dence that they are attacked by something 
inside and which suggests the effect pro¬ 
duced by the silver leaf disease. When once 
a tree is affected in this way nothing pos¬ 
sibly can^ remedy-?t, because what would kill 
the fungus would also kill the tree. 
Peaches, Plums, and Cherries are very! 
liable to this malady. Very frequently soils, 
but especially those of a heavy nature and 
inclined to clay, are deficient in lime. Your 
best plan would be to get a good quantity 
of mortar rubble and to work it deeplv into, 
the border in autumn. The soil-could be 
taken up by means of a fork, so as to avoid 
cutting the roots. The soil could be worked; 
over in the form of a trench and the mortar | 
worked into it a it the same time. This, while 1 
helping the trees, would be against various! 
fungi, including Stereum purpureum, which; 
attacks these trees. If the rest of the tree, 
is affected in the same way as the branch you r 
sent us you cannot remedy the matter, and it: 
will be necessary to get a 3'oung tree in the 
near future. That would "be a good oppor¬ 
tunity to get fresh soil and to well mix it 
with lime rubble. 
SOILS AND MANURES . 
2860. English for French Weights. 
In The Gardening World of 7th March, 
p. 166, you have a special manure for Straw¬ 
berries, hut it is put in French terms. If 
you can have if translated into English terms 
and state the quantity to be used to the yard 
of 3 ft. square it would be a great conve¬ 
nience. (Tom E. Thhiscutt, Cornwall.) 
