THE GARDENING WORLD 
361 
May 30, 1908. 
The Cape Fig wort 
Although this plant is a native of the 
Cape of Good Hope, it is hardy enough 
to live in the open border in most parts 
of this country. During certain winters, 
when unusually severe, the perennial 
stems and evergreen leaves are liable to 
get cut down in very exposed positions. 
The plant comes up again, however, from 
t-he root and even blooms, in the south at 
least, when this is the case. In the far 
north, however, if planted at the foot of 
a south aspect wall, the stems generally 
pass through the winter unharmed, and 
give a long panicle of flowers during Sep¬ 
tember, sometimes earlier. The stems 
♦ p 
distinctions are to be made, there are 
many other plants having an equal right 
to being considered shrubs, such, for in¬ 
stance, as the perennial Candytufts, Peri¬ 
winkles, and many others that are more 
or less woody in texture and evergreen. 
Another point that should easily settle 
it is that the stems never become very 
woody in this country, and it should 
therefore be admitted as readily in a 
stand of flowers for exhibition as the com¬ 
mon Wallflower, which is a sub-shrub on 
walls and in the wild state generally. 
Those who attempt to cultivate it 
should select a warm, well-drained soil, 
Phygelius capensis. 
Maclaren and Sons. 
that remain green through the winter 
would be those that would give the ear¬ 
liest flowers. These flowers are not un¬ 
like those of a Pentstemon, being tubular 
and of a dark crimson-red. The plant 
is altogether superior to our native species 
of Figwort, and is really more like a 
Pentstemon, though the flowers are rather 
narrower and somewhat different in shape. 
About thirty or forty years ago it was 
popular as an exhibition plant, though 
latterly it has been rather pooh-poohed as 
a border plant. Some even go so far as 
to describe the stems as woody, and the 
plant therefore a shrub. If such fine 
and if a sheltered situation open to the 
sun can be secured for it, the foliage will 
remain evergreen and bloom earlier than 
if the stems are cut down by frost. They 
should never be cut intentionally with the 
knife, as we have seen it done by those 
who do not understand its real habit. 
It may be propagated from seeds which 
should readily be obtainable in warm sea¬ 
sons, especially from plants that flower 
early. Those who already have a plant 
can increase it by division of the root- 
stock in the case of large plants, or if 
there is only one crown, cuttings of the 
leafy, flowerless shoots may be taken 
when getting firm during the summer 
months and inserted in sandy soil to be 
covered with a hand-glass or placed in a 
frame and kept close until the cuttings 
show signs that they have rooted. 
-- 
Franco-British Exhibition Horticultural Show. 
Mr. C. J. Kiralfy informs us that owing 
to arrangements that it has been neces¬ 
sary to make in connection with the open¬ 
ing of the exhibition and the visit of his 
Majesty and the President of the French 
Republic, the Executive Committee of 
the Franco-British Exhibition have been 
reluctantly compelled to abandon the 
horticultural show which was to have been 
held on the 19th and 20th of May. 
Taste in Asparagus. 
A fallacy in connection with Asparagus 
which it is as well to notice is the idea 
that to be of good flavour it must of 
necessity be green. There is any amount 
of light-coloured Asparagus equal, if not 
even superior, to some which presents the 
most pleasing shade of green. It is so 
difficult in these matters to resist the ap¬ 
peal to the eye, but those who would 
please the palate only need not be em¬ 
phatic about the picturesqueness of the 
vegetable. White Asparagus is much 
favoured by Continentals, who are usually 
good judges in these matters. 
- ++4 - 
. , The Florists’ . . 
- AURICULA. - 
This little plant has many admirers, 
and justly so, but being difficult to grow, 
it is left to a few to successfully bring it 
to perfection.' Perseverance and a care¬ 
ful study of the plant will hasten success 
far quicker than all the advice given by 
the favoured few who really do understand 
it. 
Seeds should have been sown last 
month, or in February; still, they may 
yet be sown, although the earlier plants 
would in all probability make a stronger 
growth. Sow the seeds two in a thumb- 
pot, pulling out the weaker plants should 
both seeds germinate. After sowing, 
shade and place in a cold frame situated 
in a sheltered, though open, position, and 
where the morning sun can reach before 
nine o’clock, but not after, if it can be 
avoided. Keep the atmosphere in the 
frame cool and moist, as the seedlings 
grow away, by a careful use of the syringe. 
Do not over-pot at anv time, and have 
the drainage perfect ; a stagnant condi¬ 
tion at the roots is the cause of many 
failures. 
During the summer the pots should be 
stood on a depth of clean coal or coke 
screenings, allowing plenty of room be¬ 
tween the pots, and occasionally during 
the day using the syringe between them. 
So long as the drainage is good, no 
fears need be entertained concerning the 
watering, but give liberally when needed ; 
a dry, hot state, both at the roots and of 
the atmosphere, spells ruin quickly. 
A nice compost for growing healthy 
plants is three parts light, fibrous loam, 
and one of good leaf mould, silver sand, 
and a sprinkling of broken, dry cow ma¬ 
nure. Pot firmly, but not hard, using 
only the fingers. R. 
Welbeck Abbey, Worksop, Notts. 
