369 
May 30, 1908. 
THE a ARDEN I NO WORLD. 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
Vorld, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may , 
■over any branch of gardening. Questions 
Jiould be as brief as -possible and written on 
>ne side of the paper only ; a separate sheet 
,f paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
'he best use of this column are invited to 
Prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
Irawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
'he position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
2880. Name and Treatment of Orchid. 
Will you kindly tell me the name of the 
enclosed flower and what treatment it re¬ 
quires? A friend gave me two pots of 
bulbs two years ago and her’s flower most 
profusely, .but mine have shown no signs 
of any flowers. (M. Edwards, Derby.) 
The pseudo-builib you send is that of 
Coelogyne cristata, an Orchid that requires 
practically intermediate house treatment. 
The pseudo-bulb was rather small to flower 
and you must get the plants to make vigorous 
growth during the summer. Syringe the 
plants twice a day and when growth com¬ 
mences gradually increase the amount of 
water. At the same time the temperature at 
night may be allowed to rise to 60 degs. or 
even higher. This will not be difficult to ac¬ 
complish in the summer time. Shade lightly 
during the warmest period of the day, but 
otherwise let the plants have all the light 
possible. Towards autumn gradually re¬ 
duce the amount of water given till the 
plants are decidedly at rest. After that 
only sufficient water will be necessary to 
keep the pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling until 
the plants show signs of flowering, which 
they should do some time from March on¬ 
wards according to the degree of heat at 
which you keep them. It would be well to 
keep the night temperature during the win¬ 
ter,, but especially after the New Year, 
labout 50 degs., with a rise of 5 degs. to 10 
degs. by day with sunshine. You do not 
tell us anything about the conditions under 
which you keep it, but if you have a house 
in which you can maintain the above tem¬ 
peratures at the different seasons we should 
think you would have no difficulty. The 
foliage should not be wetted during the 
winter months when the plants are at rest, 
otherwise the leaves will get spotted especi¬ 
ally if the temperature is rather low. 
2881. Malmaison Losing Leaves. 
Some of my Malmaisons are losing their 
leaves badly in the greenhouse, though I 
have watered them carefully. They only 
■ get sun up to eleven o’olock, and it cannot 
be due to too much sunshine. They are 
not rusted in any way. Hoping you can 
give me some solution. (F. M. W., Wilts.) 
It would seem to be due chiefly to the lack 
of direct sunlight during the dull days of 
winter. Carnations are plants that like 
a deal of exposure, which hardens the fo¬ 
liage, gives it durability and makes the 
plant healthy and robust. The plants may 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
■flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
have been stood too far away from the glass 
or more likely too much shaded by other 
plants. In houses- of mixed subjects with 
broad leaves Carnations scarcely get their 
proper share of light. At the same time the 
house may have -been too little ventilated 
with the object of keeping up the tempera¬ 
ture. After } r our plants finish flowering the 
best way would be to layer the shoots in -the 
soil of a frame or else out of doors. As 
soon as they are well rooted, pot them up 
and stand them on a bed of ashes out of 
doors till the -rains of autumn make it neces¬ 
sary to take -them inside. Then stand them 
close to the glass- where they will. get all 
the flight possible and give ventilation dur¬ 
ing mild weather in winter. 
2882. Rose Leaves Dropping in Green¬ 
house. 
Since the hot weather .commenced a num¬ 
ber of my Rose -trees are dropping their 
leaves badly. Some time ago they had green 
fly on them, and I syringed them with 
quassia extract. Do you think this would 
have anything to do with it, and if so, what 
would you advise me to do? They seem 
to be healthy otherwise and showing flower 
buds. The house is unheated. Would it be 
safe to give them liquid manure? (T. Wel- 
stead, Surrey.) 
The lower leaves of Roses under glass do 
drop early, especially those produced when 
the light is bad. It is just possible that 
you have kept the house rather close in win¬ 
ter or earily spring with the object of en¬ 
couraging the Roses to -grow. This would 
have the effect, but the leaves produced under 
those conditions are always more tender or 
thinner than those -produced under better 
conditions of light. You need not be 
alarmed, therefore, at the dropping of the 
early leaves. Give abundance of ventila¬ 
tion and keep the house cool during the day. 
With sunshine they will continue to advance 
and the leaves and flowers will be more 
durable When produced under cool condi¬ 
tions. The quassia extract is not likely to 
have injured, the leaves. Weak liquid 
manure may be given twice a week until the 
blooms commence to open. 
COLD FRAMES. 
2883. Potting Auriculas. 
If you could give a series of articles on 
the Auricula in your valuable paper it 
would be -much appreciated. (T. H. Hurt, 
Birmingham.) 
Re-potting is best done soon after the 
flowers are over in May or J une. Fox show 
purposes -the pots should not be large, as 
they are confined to one crown and one truss 
of bloom. If merely for decorative pur¬ 
poses,, larger pots might be allowed, so that 
the plants could be allowed to attain some 
size and -produce numerous trusses of bloom. 
In the case of very large specimens half- 
pots or deep pans would be better than pots, 
which would be inclined to become too deep 
if of large size. For single trusses of bloom 
the pots may vary from 3 in. to 4^ in. in 
diameter at the top, according to the vigour 
of the variety. The last-named size is only 
used for the very strongest growing varie¬ 
ties. Use clean pots, or have them washed 
and dried. The drainage should be care¬ 
fully laid so as to be thoroughly effective 
throughout the year. Make up a compost 
of good fibrous loam three to four parts 
and one each of flaky leaf mould and well 
dedayed oow manure, .rub-bed through a 
sieve, so as to make it mix equally with the 
compost. Some sand will also be necessary 
to make the soil porous. Break up the turf 
by -hand, and see that it contains no wire- 
worm or other vermin. A sprinkling of 
“ Vaporite,” Kilogru-b,” or some other 
preparation of that nature, may be mixed 
with the compost, and that will be a great 
precaution against these hidden enemies. In 
turning out the old plants, .remove any 
offsets that may be -present, and put them 
separately in small pots. See, also, whether 
the roots are infested with woolly aphis, 
and have them brushed off, but -the above 
insecticides in the soil should effectually 
keep this enemy at bay. Pot -them close up 
to the base of the leaves, and make the soil 
quite firm with -the fingers. Both the show 
and al-pine sections delight in a cool situa¬ 
tion during the summer months. Where 
there is not the convenience of a wall or 
building facing north, a hedge with the 
same conditions will answer, In other cases 
the frames may be turned round to face the 
north. - Keep the lights closed until the 
plants are established, after which the sashes 
may be drawn off and left rising above the 
frames, and -that, with their ends, will de¬ 
flect the light of the sun during the warmer 
period of the day. Careful watering is 
necessary f-rom the time of potting -till they 
commence to make good growth late in the 
season. In the meantime, give just sufficient 
water to keep the soil slightly moist and 
prevent flagging. Weeds that may come up 
in the pots should be removed wh-ile quite 
small. 
ROOM PLANTS. 
2884. Plants tor Exhibition. 
I want, to try my hand at growing plants 
in windows for exhibition -purposes, if you 
would be good enough to mention a few that 
could be grown in s-unny windows. I do 
not want foliage plants, "but flowering ones 
not too difficult to grow. (J. C. Raymond, 
Yorks.) 
Plants that could be easily grown in a 
window would include the common Hydran¬ 
gea. Most of the Fuchsias would succeed, 
but some flower much more freely than 
others, and -they would gave the most satis¬ 
faction. We refer to such varieties a-s Rose 
of Castile, Mrs. Marshall and Ballet Girl. 
Zonal Pelargoniums, both single and semi- 
double, are nearly always -grown in win¬ 
dows with a large measure of success. Some 
of the large flowering semi-double ones are 
very effective. Ot-her good'window plants 
are Musk, Begonia weltoniensis and Scar¬ 
borough Lily (Vallofa purpurea). During 
the summer single Petunias would succeed 
in sunny windows. Possibly, also, you could 
manage tuberous Begonias with a little care. 
2885. Plants for Window Culture. 
What kind of flowering plants would be 
