June 6, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
383 
The Flower Garden. 
The more tender kmds of bedding plants 
may now be put out and the work completed 
as soon as possible. The soil is now warm 
on the surface, and if kept well watered the 
plants will soon become established and 
make very satisfactory growth. Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums that have been stopped are now 
nice, bushy specimens, and should be planted 
in an upright position; but unstopped plants 
grown in warm houses and frames are rather 
leggy,” and if planted in an upright posi¬ 
tion they would look somewhat ungamly and 
giat blown about, bruised and, perhaps, 
broken off. . Such specimens, if properly 
planted, will quickly fill up the space in the 
border. Fig. 1 shows how to plant them. 
If very tall, one peg should be placed to 
each plant to keep it in position. In due 
course young shoots will grow from the 
stem of the plant as denoted by the dotted 
lines A, owing to the plant '.being held 
firmly in a slanting position by the peg B. 
Zonal Pelargoniums thrive best in a some- 
,vhat dry position, so that borders facing 
the south, southwest and west are suitable 
for them. Tuberous Begonias, Fuchsias and 
Lobelias do well in borders facing the north 
and east, and north-west, but they are also 
quite suitable for other positions. Mar¬ 
guerites may be grown in almost any aspect, 
but if the border faces the north do not make 
the soil too rich else the growth of the 
plants will be too luxuriant. 
Carpet bedding is still favoured by many 
persons. The best position for these plants 
is an open one facing the south, then the 
leaves of the plants become highly coloured, 
but if planted in shady places, or too close 
to large trees, the foliage is never satis¬ 
factory. 
Staking Carnations. 
Border Carnations will soon 'be throwing 
up their flower, stems and these should be 
supported, in due time. It is a mistake to 
allow the flower spikes to lie on the “grass” 
of the plants or the soil until the flowers 
commence to open before staking be done. 
Thinning Out Annuals. 
The young plants raised in the open bor¬ 
ders should now be finally thinned out so 
that the selected ones may have ample space 
to develop in and bear strong-flowering 
spikes. 
Border Chrysanthemums. 
Cuttings of early-flowering varieties 
which were propagated during the latter 
part of April should now be planted in their 
summer quarters. If a herbaceous border is 
to be their home, put out the plants in 
threes, fives or sevens. In bread borders the 
larger clumps will look best, whereas three 
in a clump wiil be sufficient for planting in 
narrow ones. 
Sweet Pea9. 
No time should be lost in putting the tall 
sticks to the young plants which have been 
raised from seeds sown in the outside border. 
The plants.grow more rapidly when they can 
cling to a support. Do not bring the tops 
of the sticks too alose together either in the 
rows or clumps; if you do the haulm will! 
grow through the sticks about half-way up 
the latter and then fall over, presenting an 
untidy appearance. Place the sticks almost 
i 
Fig. 2 .—A good way to -plant leggy Pelar¬ 
goniums. 
upright, and lace them together with string, 
then they wtill serve their purpose admir¬ 
ably. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Vines. 
Vines growing on walls should be attended 
to and all surplus shoots be forthwith re¬ 
moved. Sometimes inexperienced persons 
allow all the young shoots to grow during 
the whole of the season, and then wonder 
Fig. 2 .—Thinning out shoots on outdoor 
Vines. 
why their Vines present a weakly appear¬ 
ance. Where the branches were pruned back 
in the winter time young shoots will now be 
growing similar to those shown in Fig. 2, 
probably more shoots are growing on some 
spurs. But in any case one shoot only 
Fig. 3 .—Plant the main crop of Celery 
now. 
should be retained on a spur, then it will 
grow strongly. The shoot A in the sketch, 
being well placed, is the right one to re¬ 
tain; the others, B, must be taken off. But 
Vines growing on pergolas and arches need 
not be disbudded so severely unless you want 
Grapes from them. 
Strawberries. 
Do not wait for the fruits to commence 
colouring before putting on nets as a pro¬ 
tection against birds. The nets should be 
supported on wires some distance from the 
ground; if laid on the plants they will not 
afford much protection. 
Also place some clean straw under the 
fruits to keep them from being soiled if 
this work has not already been done. 
Duly prepare soil and flower pots for the 
layering of runners. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Celery. 
The main crop of Celery plants must now 
be put out in the trenohes. Fig. 3 shows a 
broad trr.ieh. in which two rows of plants are 
put. Such a trench should be 20 ins. wide 
at least, the plants being placed in two rows 
i ft. apart, and the same distance from plant 
to plant in the rows. For a single line of 
plants the trench should be about 16 ins. 
wide. I speak of trenches, but I do not mean 
deep ones, os it is a mistake to put the plants 
in a cold subsoil. A trench 1 ft. deep wall 
do, and even then a portion of it should be 
filled up with some of the good soil as shown 
at A in the sketch. The roots of the plants 
will penetrate the soil in two directions as 
shown at B, B., and so it is advisable to have 
a well-manured soil on the colder subsoil C. 
Planting Tomatos. 
During this week you should put out all 
your Tomato plants, place a strong stake to 
each one—in open quarters—give water, and 
put on a good mulch of half-rotted manure. 
No further protection will now be needed, as 
the plants should igrow without a check if 
they have been duly hardened. 
Spinach. 
This crop should now he grown in rows in 
the open (borders and not between rows of 
Peas. The ground should be deeply dug 
and well manured so as to induce a strong 
growth of succulent leaves. 
Parsley. 
Sow seeds of Parsley on a west border for 
the autumn and winter supply. In northern 
districts a few rows of the resultant plants 
may be protected with boards’ and mats dur¬ 
ing any severe weather. 
Early Potatos. 
As these are lifted you may plant Cauli¬ 
flowers on the vacant ground, as they gener¬ 
ally do remarkably well in such a position. 
Maincrop Potatos. 
Draw up soil to the rows without delay 
before the young tubers form and so avoid 
possible injury to them through late earth¬ 
ing. 
Foxglove. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Insect Pests. 
The amateur will do well at this season 
to wage continual warfare against the vari¬ 
ous pests which infest the greenhouse, for it 
must be remembered that the present is their 
breeding time, and if allowed to multiply 
unmolested it portends endless labour and 
disappointment at some future date. Thxips, 
greenfly, woodlice, mealy-bug—lucky indeed 
is he who escapes the unwelcome attentions 
of all of them, and a close examination of 
the underside of the Vine leaves will Likely 
