THE GARDENING WORLD. 
399 
June 13, 1908. 
The Flower Garden. 
Ia the southern counties many beds will 
now be filled with their summer occupants, 
but farther north much more work in this 
direction still remains to be done. Of 
course, the wise gardener puts out the more 
hardy kinds of bedding plants first, and the 
tenderest last, thus facilitating the work and 
giving each kind of plant a chance to become 
established without receiving any check to 
growth. Pansies -'and Violas form a very 
important feature in bedding arrangements 
in the north, and have done so for many 
years past, and now they are vastly more 
used in the southern counties. 
A Scotch gardener, under whom I served 
my apprenticeship, told me that on entering 
a garden, in which he was employed, the 
morning following the day on which the 
bedding-out work had been completed, he 
found the whole of the plants destroyed with 
frost, except the Pansies and Violas. This 
happened in Scotland. Happily, the head 
gardener had a grand reserve stock of Pan¬ 
sies and Violas, and so these plants were 
used solely in the flower garden that sum¬ 
mer, and proved such a success that every 
year afterwards they were more largely used 
than formerly. 
Spring Flowering Plaints. 
The stock of old plants of Polyanthuses 
and Primroses which are now being cleared 
from the flower beds, should be carefully re¬ 
planted in the reserve garden, or border. 
Large clumps should be carefully divided, 
and the separate parts planted in rows one 
foot apart, and 10 inches from plant to 
plant in the rows. A partially shaded bor¬ 
der is the 'best place for them. Very often 
the leaves at this season are badly infested 
with green fly, and these pests must be got 
rid of, as they would, otherwise, cripple the 
young growth of the plants. Make the soil 
firm around the roots of the plants and after¬ 
wards attend regularly to the watering un¬ 
till they are well established. 
Watering Bedding Plants. 
It is not necessary to keep the soil in a 
saturated condition, but sufficient moisture 
should be maintained around the roots to 
induce steady root extension. Apply the 
1 water either very early in a morning or dur¬ 
ing the evening. 
Suckers on Rose Trees. 
Do not allow suckers to make headway, 
• but remove them directly they have broken 
through the surface soil. If allowed to make 
as much growth as is shown in Fig. 1 they 
will rob the tree of much nourishment. It 
is almost useless to cut them off just above 
the soil, as they would soon grow again in 
increased numbers. Carefully take away 
the top crust of soil and then remove the 
suckers A from the roots B, afterwards re¬ 
placing the soil C, and put on a good mulch 
of rotted manure. 
Take Care of the Mowing Machine. 
Directly a border is filled with bedding 
plants closely examine the grass and pick up 
all crocks found there, afterwards using the 
brush to clean up all foreign matter. Mow¬ 
ing machines are often damaged through 
neglect to clear away crocks and stones from 
the- border. 
Fig. /.—How to remove suckers from 
Rose trees. 
Fig. 2.—How to tie in or nail young 
shoots of fruit trees on walls. 
Surplus Bedding Plants. 
Do not neglect these, but collect them and 
Fig. 3.—Specimens of badly thinned and 
well thinned Turnips 
place them in blocks on a bed of ashes until 
you can spare the time to plant them in some 
border in the kitchen -garden. Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, Calceolarias, Marguerites, Ver¬ 
benas, Lobelias, etc., so planted in firm 
ground will provide a splendid lot of cut¬ 
tings in due season, thus obviating the ne¬ 
cessity for mutilating the plants in the 
flower beds too much later on. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Tying in Shoots on Fruit Trees. 
The young shcots of Peaches and Nec¬ 
tarines are the ones on which next year’s 
crop of fruit is borne, and as these young 
shoots are now growing freely they should 
be tied to the wires, or nailed to the wall, 
as the case may be, without undue delay. 
By the timely tying of these shoots light, 
air, and sunshine are not obstructed from 
the young fruits. It is necessary to fully 
expose the latter throughout their season of 
growth so as to obtain good colour and high 
flavour. Fig. 2 shows how the young shcots 
should be tied in. They generally grow in 
the direction that the buds point when the 
latter commence to grow, and soon cross each 
other and form a thicket unless .they are tied 
to the wires or nailed to the walls. A shows 
the ycrng branches, and B the direction they 
should be trained in, as denoted by the 
dotted '.ines. 
Per Li Blister. 
Du Lag a very cold period, such as we 
have lately experienced, the leaves of 
Peaches and Nectarines very often blister 
badly. So badly are some trees affected that 
the majority of the main leaves perish. In 
other instances only a few on each shoot are 
lost. All blistered leaves should be re¬ 
moved, as if they are left on the tree they 
would shrivel up and turn black. New 
leaves " will grow — and shoots — and these 
should be taken great care of. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Turnips. 
In some soils it is a difficult matter to 
grow tender, succulent Turnips during the 
summer months. We are now entering upon 
that trying period. Many persons think that 
fine, well shaped roots cannot be grown 
any kind of soil except that which is made 
very firm. This is a mistake. Dig the 
ground deeply, put in a liberal dressing of 
rotted manure, directly the soil is dry on the 
surface tread it down a little, if it be of a 
light nature, but do not tread it if it be 
clayey. Sow the seeds in drills and finally 
thin out the young plants so as to allow 
plenty of space for the roots to grow in. 
Fig. 3 shows at A a bad root grown in badly 
tilled soil and not duly thinned out ; B shows 
a good root grown in deeply dug ground 
and the result of early thinning. 
Peas. 
The next few weeks will, probably, be very 
warm and dry; if so, Peas will need every 
attention. _ If you have not already put on 
a substantial mulch, not only to those plants 
now flowering, but also to very } r oung ones, 
do so this week. If the soil is dry give a 
thorough soaking of water and two ounces 
of superphosphate per yard run of row, and 
then add the mulch. 
Endive. 
Sow some seeds of Endive on a west bor¬ 
der, broadcast, and thinly. Only lightly 
cover the seeds with fine soil; they will soon 
"germinate. 
Onions. 
Onion plants, especially those raised ia 
boxes and recently planted out, will now re- 
