June 13, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
401 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
or Id, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
ver any branch of gardening. Questions - 
tould be as brief as -possible and written on 
le side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
■ paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
e best use of this column are invited to 
epare and forward to us a rough outline 
’awing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
\e position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
8TOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
922. Gloxinias with Leaves Brown and 
Stunted. 
I have some Gloxinias that were started 
l March, (but although they started well 
iey now look stunted, and many of the 
aves are turning brown at the edges. , Can 
xl say why this should be ? I hope you 
ill be able to help me in this matter, as I 
ave he ver had them go like this before. 
L S. D., Herts.) 
Judging from what you say, your Glox- 
lias have been attacked by a small mite 
hidh hides chiefly on the underside of the 
aves and causes them to go brown in the 
ay you state. Owing to dts small size it 
capes notice until the damage is done, 
it if you have a magnifying lens you will 
1 able to see if any are present. Something 
mtaining sulphur and soap is the best 
•medy for this enemy. Make up a solution 
: Gishurst compound at the rate of 3 ozs. or 
ozs. to the gallon. When thoroughly dis- 
ilved get a tub or other wiide-mouthed ves- 
>1, lay a board over lit and then lay your 
lants on this, one or two at a time, and 
loroughly syringe the under surface of 
ie leaves. Stand them back in their places 
*ain without washing them and damp the 
>use well down at closing time, so as to 
mse a steamy moisture. This usually de- 
roys the mite, but it would make more cer- 
in if you repeat the operation on the after - 
xm of the second day, keeping the house 
i?amy again during the night. A dry at- 
osphere causes this pest to increase, and 
>u can best keep it down by following the 
>ove directions and syringing the leaves 
hile avoiding the flowers at closing time. 
923. Plants for a Cool Greenhouse. 
Could you help me with a list of plants 
at would 'be suitable for a cool greenhouse 
? ft. by 12 ft.) which I could keep during 
inter without heat. It gets the sun upon 
from 12 o’clock till sunset. I should like 
so to know where to get them. (G. W. T., 
orset.) 
Plants that would be suitable for the house 
•u mention are Hydrangeas, Fuchsias, Ivv- 
ave d_ and Zonal Pelargoniums, Camelias, 
ironillla glauca, Indian Azaleas, and vari¬ 
es hybrid perpetual, hybrid tea and tea 
pses. • The latter would probably do best 
ith you in winter, and after flowering they 
; uld be stood out of doors. East Lothian 
id Brompton Stocks could be sown in July 
id grown on for winter flowering. Sow 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
■flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully fled, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
the seeds in pots or pans, transplant them 
info boxes, and when the leaves touch one 
another pot them off singly in small pots 
and shift them on as they require it. Hardy 
bulbs could be potted up in October, includ¬ 
ing Tulips, Daffodils, Hymoinths and Grape 
Hyacinths (Muscari). Most nurserymen 
could supply these, and even if they do not 
grow them they could get them for you. 
2924. Striking Cuttings of Genistas. 
Please let me know through the medium 
of your pages how I can strike cuttings of 
Genistas. I have a greenhouse, but although 
I have tried them more than once, I have not 
been successful. (A. Skinner, Hants.) 
You should take shoots about 3 in. or 4 in. 
long when they are just getting firm. Re¬ 
move the lower leaves and insert them firmly 
in 5 in. pots of sandy soil with a layer of 
sand on the top. Place them under a bell- 
glass till they axe getting callused and then 
stand the pots in a gentle bottom heat to 
encourage the emission of roots. Another 
way is to take cuttings of the ripe wood in 
September and treat them in the same way. 
They should, of course, be kept in a green¬ 
house through the winter and should de¬ 
velop roots before spring. When they com¬ 
mence growing, 'showing that they have 
rooted, they should be potted off singly. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
2925. Training Sweet Peas. 
I am a constant reader of your paper and 
have gained a great deal of knowledge from 
it. I beg to ask what is the best method of 
training Sweet Peas up the fences of a small 
garden. (A. Donne, Middlesex.) 
You do not give us any idea of the nature 
of your fences. If they consist of close 
boarding we should not care to grow Sweet 
Peas against them at all, as the "heat would 
be too concentrated, causing a dry atmosphere 
about them that would encourage red spider. 
However, if you have them growing there 
is no help' for it. They could be kept up 
against the fence by a row of stakes against 
them and leaning up against the fence, or 
you could put in rows of nails in the fence 
or small tacks and then use either thin 
string or matting, tying it to the first nail, 
then twisting it round the head of the others 
in such a way as to grasp the Peas in a 
wide loop of string. If your fence con¬ 
sists of open railings or wooden lathes the 
Sweet Peas will succeed much better, be¬ 
cause the air will have a better play about 
them. In that case you could either use 
stakes on one side of the Peas or use string 
or matting, looping it round the lathes at 
intervals, and over the Peas in the form of 
wide loops. If the fence consists of iron 
rods it wilil be easy to make the Peas cling 
to them when once they get a start by plac¬ 
ing short sprays against them so as to push 
them up against the fence. 
2926. Name of Plant and Treatment. 
A few days ago I bought from a florist a 
box of mauve alpine Phlox. I planted it 
out in good soil, watering it well, and 
though the plants flagged a little at first 
owing to the hot sun they afterwards ap¬ 
peared to flourish. Two days later, how¬ 
ever, I found most of the blossoms had fal¬ 
len off, and the stems were bare of foliage 
and Hooked as if they had been attacked by 
some insect. Y e are always much troubled 
during the spring and early summer by 
snails and slugs, which seem to congregate 
in a ditch running round one side of the 
house and in which I grow sundry hardy 
Ferns and wild flowers. Do these pests at¬ 
tack small Phloxes, or would woodlice be 
more likely to do the mischief ? If so, how 
can 1 prevent their ravages ? Any advice on 
this point will be very valuable, as other 
plants will! suffer. Also, would you kindly 
tell me if this alpine Phlox, of which I en¬ 
close a tiny piece, is a hardy plant and what 
culluie it requires. Should it be potted and 
kept in a cold frame during the winter? 
(Vera, Surrey.) 
The name of your plant is Phlox divari- 
cata canadensis, and it is perfectly hardy. 
1 he best plan is to take cuttings in July 
or when you can get them, and root them 
in pots of sandy soil. In gardens that are 
troubled with slugs the best plan would be 
to keep these in a cold frame until spring 
and then plant them out. With the season 
before them to get established they require 
no further attention during the winter than 
simply to be kept clear of weeds. We can 
understand that you were attracted by plants 
in full flower, as this is the usual way the 
florists do to attract buyers. Phloxes should 
not be disturbed While in bloom. The best 
time for transplanting is in March when 
they commence growing. We suspect the 
roots of your plant got dry before you got 
them, but although they may have lost their 
leaves and flowers, they will probably re¬ 
cover if you water them in dry weather. 
It is just possible that slugs may have been 
eating them, but the shifting while in full 
bloom is sufficient to account for it. Select 
a piece of good soil which is sufficiently 
deep to keep' fairly moist in summer, and 
plant your Phloxes there fully exposed to 
light and air on all sides. When once estab¬ 
lished all they want is to be kept clear of 
weeds. There is no necessity for potting up 
old-established plants. If you are troubled 
with suoh pests as slugs, snails and wood- 
lice, you should get some of those remedies 
advertised in our pages, such as “ Vapor¬ 
ise,” “Kilogrub” and “Al/phol,” which 
are more effective than lime, as rain does 
not destroy the properties of these remedies. 
You will get instructions with each con¬ 
signment of the insecticides. 
2927. Tulips Failing- to Flower. 
As- a constant reader of your valuable 
paper I shall be glad to know the reason 
why a whole bed of Tulips failed to bloom 
this rear. They did not throw up a flower 
stem art all, and only one large leaf to a 
bulb. I never had any behave in this way 
before, and should like to know the reason 
and the prevention of it another y'ear. (F 
Carter, Soms.) 
You did not tell us'what the variety' was 
but there can be little doubt that the only- 
reason why your bulbs did not flower was 
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