June 13, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
403 
properly weathered you should not have the 
same difficulty. Besides wooden lattice for 
entering walls there is another method, 
namely, by means of wires. These could be 
stretched along the walls about 1 ft. apart. 
At the end you should have a stout peg of 
some sort, driving it into the walls, and then 
strain the wire tightly to a peg on the other 
side of the house front. We cannot say that 
the wires would be cheaper in the end than 
lattice of wcod ; because the labour of fixing 
up would help to increase the cost. Between 
the two end supports of the wires you should, 
of course, have vine eyes every 4 ft. to 6 ft. 
apart. These are small pointed iron pegs 
about the thickness of a quill pen with the 
head turned so as to form a loop. These 
vine eyes are, of course, quite inexpensive, 
and anyone could drive them in and then 
run the wire through the loops, tightening 
up the wires, and the work would be com¬ 
plete. The Roses could then be tied with 
tarred string, twine or raffia according to the 
stoutness of the stems and the length of time 
you desire the ties to last. 
VEGETABLES. 
2935. Scarlet Runners Not Growing. 
Please fell us the cause of these Beans mak¬ 
ing no shoots or growth. They have been 
in the ground five weeks. We have a long 
row and not one has come through the soil. 
I have -been looking at them and they were 
lying in the state of the one enclosed. It is 
most disappointing. They are Carter’s 
Scarlet Emperor. I first grew them last 
year. (Constant Reader, Essex.) 
The Bean sent was perfect except that the 
root had ibeen killed in trying to germinate. 
This must have ibeen owing to the snow 
and wet condition of the soil after they were 
sown. There are numerous complaints this 
year of the same thing ■happening in the 
case of French Beans. You did not tell us 
whether you soaked them in water before 
sowing them. Some people do so, but that 
is a mistake in the early part of the year. 
We feel sure there is nothing the matter 
with the seeds, except -that they were put 
in cold ground, and absorbing the cold mois¬ 
ture at a time when the temperature was too 
low for them to germinate, they conse¬ 
quently perished. If your seal is of a heavy 
and clayey nature they would be more likely 
to perish in that than if the soil was light 
and gravelly. We take a simpler plan, and 
this year did not sow the Scarlet Runners 
till the second week in May, sowing them 
in a box and standing the latter in a cold 
frame. Now the. Beans are 12 in. to 16 in. 
high and commencing to run. They have, 
of course, been planted out in their per¬ 
manent positions. By this means we can 
avoid the chances of cold, wet weather, and 
also guard against slugs, if there are any 
about. Another year we should advise you 
to sow the earlier crops in boxes, rear them 
in a cold frame and plant them out. They 
transplant readily, growing away without 
much check. 
FRUIT. 
2936. Vines Attacked by Mildew. 
Could you tell me a remedy for mildew 
of_which my Vine is attacked. I have en¬ 
closed two leaves of the same. My house is 
well ventilated, but is attached to the dwel¬ 
ling house. I .am told it is caused by the 
9 team. I am using flowers of sulphur at 
present. I have a splendid crop this year 
and I am very anxious to save them. Kindly 
insert answer in your next issue of The Gar¬ 
dening World, of which I am a constant 
reader. (Puzzled. Isle of Wight.) 
The leaves you sent us are attacked with 
the ordinary mildew of Vines caused by the 
fungus, Oidium Tuckeri, which lives on the 
surface of the leaf. The most troublesome 
part about it is that it spreads so rapidly. 
The best way of combating it is to keep a 
sharp look out for the first attack. No doubt 
the moisture in the house helps it to spread 
rapidly, but it can also be caused to increase 
\ery quickly by unequal ventilation, thus 
causing a draught in the house. The best 
plan with Vines is to give ventilation early 
in the morning or as soon as the temperature 
is sufficiently high to justify ventilation. 
This should not be done at one end of the 
house or by means of the door, but the ven¬ 
tilators should be opened to a certain extent 
along the entire ridge of the roof. As the 
temperature rises all that is necessary is 
to open the ventilators a little more widely. 
Finally, you may be obliged to open the 
front ventilators to some extent. What we 
advise you to do, however, is to ventilate 
equally along the entire length of the house. 
With regard to the mildew itself you have 
got the best remedy that can be applied for 
it. Get a ladder or steps and inspect the 
upper surface of the leaves all along each 
rod, and wherever you find a speck of mil¬ 
dew dust dt with flowers of sulphur. If the 
latter is perfectly dry and powdery, just a 
thin dusting will be sufficient. It can be 
distributed either with bellows or with a 
pepper box. Keep the atmosphere of the 
house dry for a day or two, and if you 
have done the sulphuring thoroughly you 
should not have any trouble with the mil¬ 
dew. Another plan that would help you 
would be to point the hot-water pipes with 
sulphur and water, and this will also act 
against red spider. The- dusting of the 
leaves themselves is, however, the most ef¬ 
fective cure, and there should be no delay 
whenever you find a leaf attacked. We have 
seen quite a large house checked in this way 
by a timely application of sulphur. 
2937. Training Vines. 
Will you kindly give instructions of how 
to train Grape Vines, and also illustrate the 
method of training and pruning of Grape 
Vines, their care and training, as 1 have 
about twenty Vines. (G. F. H., Yorks.) 
To give you the whole history of Grape 
culture in one number would take up too 
much space, and as your Vines have now 
reached a certain stage the early history 
would be of no service to you now. Your 
best plan would be to get seme information 
upon them at the various stages of growth 
and to let us know if you have any doubt 
or difficulty about any particular point. You 
do not tell us. at what stage your Vines are, 
nor whether you have them all at the same 
stage of growth, or in two vineries at dif¬ 
ferent stages of growth. These are particu¬ 
lars that would enable us to answer you 
more directly. On this occasion we use two 
illustrations ; the smaller one shows you how 
How to -prune the laterals of growing 
Vines. Pinch at the fourth leaf be¬ 
yond the bunch. 
to prune the laterals of growing Vines. 
These laterals should be pinched or stopped 
at the fourth leaf beyond the bunch of 
A FOOD, A BEVERAGE, 
AND— 
What ? Why, something that 
will give the body all the 
strength and vitality it is 
capable of taking. 
The wide-spread and increasing 
popularity of Dr. Tibbies’ Vi-Cocoa 
amount to a diatetic revolution of 
the first importance. Vi-Cocoa is a 
food, at the same time that it is a 
beverage, not only easily digestible, 
but also promoting the digestion of 
other food. 
Good healthy specimens of men 
and women can only be 
built up out of good 
building material, but 
this does not neces¬ 
sarily mea n a costly one. 
The working man’s sixpence, sensibly 
expended, will do him as much good 
as the rich man’s five-pound note, 
more often than not, does the latter 
harm. The very best value to be 
obtained for that small coin of the 
realm is to be found in a packet of 
Vi-Cocoa, a Food Beverage of un¬ 
equalled excellence. 
flowers. Secondary laterals will arise in the 
axils of these leaves that are left, but they 
and all other laterals subsequently produced 
should be stopped at the first leaf, but if 
there is no room for them to be properly ex¬ 
posed to light, then these secondary laterals 
need not be allowed to grow at all. The 
larger illustration shows a young Vine that 
has Deen shortened back in winter and the 
laterals being pushed out are trained info 
position. Presumably if your Grapes are 
not yet thinned they are ready, or should 
be ready, to be thinned. The thinning of 
Grapes has to be done with a narrow and 
long-pointed scissors made and sold for the 
purpose. The berries at the ends of the mam 
branches, and secondary' branches should be 
left, and those lower down the various stalks 
should be removed if they are likely to come 
in contact and squeeze one another by the 
time they have grown full size. This Grape 
thinning has to be carefully done without 
touching the berries with the hands. At the 
present time the foliage should be syringed 
in the morning and again in the afternoon 
just before shutting down the ventilators. 
The leaves should, of course, be dry for 
some hours during the middle of the dav. If 
the grapes are swelling your Vines will re¬ 
quire heavy supplies of water at the roots af 
intervals of ten days or a fortnight until 
they begin to colour. Ventilation will have 
