446 
take their first step forward for the day, 
and if cut after that time they will age 
very quickly. 
Pests and Diseases. 
Mildew now begins to be very_trouble- 
some, and vigorous efforts should'be made 
to keep it under, for if it is allowed to get 
established, it will spread rapidly and be¬ 
come difficult to exterminate. Its hoary, 
leprous growth covers the leaves and pre¬ 
vents their breathing; it lowers the 
vitality of the plants, and checks root 
growth. Roses with slimy-glazed, stout 
leaves are the first to be attacked. Teas 
are rarely attacked by mildew until late 
in the season, unless they are grown under 
glass, when they are very susceptible to 
its attack. The under side of the leaf 
will be found to be the worst affected, 
therefore the remedies must be sprayed or 
puffed under as well as over the leaves. 
Sulphur puffed or rubbed over and under 
the leaves is the best remedy, but some of 
the advertised remedies for spraying ap¬ 
pear to be very good. Aphides now be¬ 
come very troublesome, and must be dealt 
with very promptly, or they will soon be¬ 
come established and very destructive. 
Budding. 
Standard stocks often suffer from a stag¬ 
nation of sap in August, and Tea buds 
cannot later on be obtained in sufficient 
quantity; therefore now is the time for 
budding all kinds, and the earlier the bet¬ 
ter if the plants are to stand the winter 
well. 
Routine Work. 
Keep the hoe going and water liberally 
if the weather is very dry, but no more 
liquid manure must be used. Pot Roses 
must be attended to ; they require but 
little water, though they must be watched 
carefully for aphides and mildew, to which 
they are now very liable. 
Propagation. 
At this season most gardeners make hot¬ 
beds for propagating Roses and green¬ 
house plants; also for a variety of other 
purposes. As made in the ordinary way, 
hotbeds are very suitable for propagating 
Roses, but a superior kind may be made 
by preparing the manure as usual, laying 
a foundation as for an ordinary bed, but 
commence from the bottom an opening 
which leaves the bed hollow in the in¬ 
terior, and slope the sides and ends up¬ 
wards all round from a point in the centre. 
Lay drain pipes to conduct the heat from 
the linings into this hollow, which is 
covered by .boards laid across on which 
the frame rests. Then cover the boards 
with soil, tan or manure. While the heat 
of the bed lasts, the pipes must be plugged 
up, but opened when lining is applied to 
conduct the heat into the bed. 
Budding. 
In the' latter part of the month and 
throughout August budding should be in 
full swing. The earlier we begin the bet¬ 
ter, especially for Teas, as then we get the 
most liberal supply of sap, thus ensuring 
the most vigorous results. The buds 
chosen should be half ripe and plump. 
At the end of this month, buds in the pro¬ 
per condition will be found on shoots from 
which blooms are cut. The branches of 
the stock should be half ripe. If worked 
on too soon whilst the wood is still soft 
and green instead of white, our chances 
of success become greatly diminished. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
Exhibiting. 
Rose shows are now in full swing, and 
every amateur who is worthy of the name 
ought to exhibit. There is nothing so 
stimulating to the amateur as a fair 
chance of winning a prize, and with this 
laudable ambition before him, he will 
spare no pains to grow, the best Roses. 
I know of many amateurs who produce 
better results than professionals,... and I 
see every reason why an amateur should 
at least do quite as well as those who 
make it a business to exhibit. 
Most people are led away by the craze 
for new Roses, but I would suggest to 
the amateur to avoid them, because so 
Hedges. 
Boundary, division, and other fences of 
Privet, Thorn, Yew, Holly, Lime or Elm, 
should be cut twice every year if the 
growth is to be kept close and very neat. 
Badly kept hedges mar the general appear¬ 
ance of a garden, well-cared-for fencts en¬ 
hance the charm of it. The first cutting— 
where two are made during the summer— 
should take place between the middle of 
June and the second week in July. I am 
not in favour of clipping the hedges too 
early because the young shoots are really 
too tender, and then the second growth is 
uneven. Hedges cut this week will shcvit 
out into a regular and strong growth again, 
and then the second or final trimming at 
the end of August will also be a satisfac¬ 
tory operation. 
Where a hedge is of good shape and quite 
level the cutting of the young shoots will 
be an easy matter, but hedges which are 
very uneven should be judiciously trimmed 
so "as to obtain perfectly level fences as 
soon as possible. To this end you must not 
cut back the young shoots in hollows as 
hard as in other parts which are fully 
grown. 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas. 
Newly-planted specimens should be 
watered in due time, else they will quickly 
show signs of distress and lose many leaves. 
There has not been a sufficient quantity of 
rain water so far this season for newly- 
planted shrubs of all kinds. A neat mulch 
would be beneficial if applied imme¬ 
diately after the watering was done. 
Faded Flowers and Seed Pods. 
Directly the flowers on Rhododendrons, 
Azaleas, and similar plants have faded, re¬ 
move them carefully, so as not to do any 
damage to the young shoots. By the re¬ 
moval of the flowers and pods the young 
shoots are benefited, and the appearance of 
the shrubs much improved. 
Budding Roses. 
This work — and very interesting it is, too 
— should now be undertaken without delay. 
There are n'ow a great number of varieties 
of Roses of great merit, so that it is unwise 
to take up space and time in growing the 
poor varieties. By bufffiing a few stocks 
every season you may introduce the newer 
sorts unless you prefer to purchase the 
plants. First examine every stock to be 
budded and see that it is quite free from 
July 4, 1908. 
many are comparatively untried. Tho 
who raise them are naturally too enth 
siastic in their descriptions, and even whi 
quite correct, then novelties often d 
teriorate in a few seasons. I would ther 
fore urge the amateur who exhibits 
stand by such long-proved and reliab 
Roses as Dupuy Jamain, Charles L 
febvre, Alf. Colomb, Maman Cochet, ar 
Caroline Testout—flowers which we knc 
will do credit to him, and which mt 
be relied upon to open well and to sho 
to advantage. There is every reason wl 
the amateur should exhibit, and if he doe 
I wish him many prizes. 
Baynton-Taylor. 
suckers, and in general good health. Ha\ 
some water in a can, and the worsted c 
other tying material at hand. 
In Fig. 1, at No. 1, the stock A is showi 
Make the incisions through the bark a 
shown at B iB. Cut out the bud as show- 
in No. 2, from the central portion of a Ros 
branch, and remove the small piece of har 
wood from the bark. Open or raise tb 
bark gently from the branch with the ai 
of a piece of smooth wood or the ivory c 
bone handle of the budding knife; then di 
the bud in water and insert it under th 
raised bark as shown in No. 3 sketch. Th 
arrow in No. 4 sketch points to the bud hel 
securely in position by strands of worste- 
or soft matting. Do the budding in th 
evening, and afterwards frequently sprinkl 
water over the buds. 
Watering Bedding Plants. 
Some persons water their bedding plant 
regularly every evening, except on day 
when rain falls. There is a happy medium 
too much water causes a sodden state of th 
soil and hinders root-action. Neither shouh 
the soil be allowed to get too dry. Be ob 
servant and give water when it is needed. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Thinning Grapes. 
The proper thinning of the bunches o 
Grapes on Vines growing in the open ai 
is not practised as much as it should be 
The Black Cluster Grape is a very fim 
variety for outside culture, and when tin 
surplus berries are thinned out the buncbe: 
ripen, the berries being of good size, anc 
the flavour agreeable to the palate. Othe: 
varieties, too, grown in the open air an 
much improved by judicious and timeb 
thinning. It is owing to neglect in thi 
thinning of the berries that many bundle- 
rot in the autumn, the moisture and insect:; 
doing the damage owing to the berries beinc 
so thickly crowded together. 
The smallest berries, should first be cu: 
out, as shown by the arrows in Fig. 2 
Then remove some of the larger berrie.- 
where they are overcrowded ; leave the encj 
berries on each bunch. Commence at the 
bottom of the bunch and finish at the top 
Use clean scissors and do not touch the ber¬ 
ries, but steady the bunch with a forked, 
stick or piece- of clean matting. 
Snails on Wall Trees. 
Even one large snail in a shell may dc 
a great deal of damage to the fruit on wall 
The Flower Garden 
