45 ° 
TUB GARDENING WORLD 
July 4, 1908. 
become yellow. It may stand out of doors 
until it commences to grow again, when you 
can repot it in fresh soil. Use three parts 
of good loam, one part of well-decayed cow 
manure and some sand to make it porous. 
You should replace it in the window again 
about the middle of September before there 
is any danger of the leaves being injured by 
earl}' frosts. 
FLOWER GARDEN . 
2988. Points of a Pansy. 
I should be pleased if you would describe 
the points which should be looked for in 
i’ansies for exhibition. (H. Staddon, 
Essex.) 
It is necessary to take into consideration 
the various classes of Pansies and to have a 
clear understanding as to the broad distinc¬ 
tions between them. The sections are belted 
or laced show Pansies, self show Pansies and 
fancy Pansies. On this occasion we shall 
direct your attention to the points to be 
looked for in belted show Pansies. This 
type should have a white or a yellow ground 
colour with three blotches of moderate size, 
one each on the three lower petals. These 
blotches should have no rays or streaks run¬ 
ning down from them, and in proportion as 
these are wanting the more peifect the flower 
will be. The edge should have a lacing all 
round the petals, of greater or less breadth, 
though not varying much in this respect, 
and well defined. You will thus look for 
the three blotches,, then a ground colour of 
white or yellow and a belting round the 
margin. The flower of this t} pe should be 
circular and smooth. The petals should be 
of good texture and not thin and flabby, as 
such flowers are liable to lose texture soon 
after being cut. Then, with. regard to the 
ground colour it should be of some shade of 
yellow or white, not blurred nor suffused with 
any other colour. The blotches on the three 
lower petals should be dark,, and in one 
uniform mass of colour without starry rays 
or finger-like points proceeding from them. 
The more solid these blotches appear the 
finer the variety. The belting or lacing 
should be of some uniform colour different 
from the ground colour and well defined. 
For instance, it should not shade on to 
the ground colour, but form an even 
line. The colours should be, therefore, 
bright and decided. The flowers should be 
cut when fully developed, but in their prime 
blush of beauty and perfection. 
2989. Renovating Pink Edging. 
Last year my Pinks -Mrs. Sinldns had a 
most beautiful effect and scented the whole 
garden. This year they are not nearly so 
- good and have holes in the edging where 
a plant or two has died. Is there any plan 
bv which I could renew them? (J. Hedges, 
Surrey.) 
As the plants go out of bloom you could 
lift them and remake the edging. I,ay the 
plants on one side until you dig or trench 
the position for them again. ~ Put some 
manure about 6 in. below the surface and 
this will restore the fertility of the soil. 
Y\ hen the ground has been either deeply dug 
or trenched lay down the garden line and 
tighten it with the object of getting a 
straight line for the Pinks. With the spade 
take out a trench about 4 in. deep close up 
to the side of the line. The latter may be 
left in position until you have relaid the 
Pinks. Now pull the old plants to pieces, 
preserving some roots with each, if possible, 
then relay them in the shallow trench much 
in the same way as you would make a box 
edging. Get them of uniform height by 
placing, them in exact position. Then with 
the hand pull some.soil over them so as to 
-'eep them there until the whole trench has 
.‘■^nished. Half fill the trench, tread the 
Y 1 ’ 1 fill up the trench completely, leav¬ 
ing the soil rather loose on the top. Give 
the plants a good watering so as to settle 
the soil about them, and they should com¬ 
mence growing afresh. There is another 
method by which you could get nice young 
plants for making a fresh edging, and this 
might be adopted if you do not care to lift 
and relay the plants at rhe present time. 
Make up a bed of fermenting manure about 
9 in. deep, and on the top of this place about 
4 in. of soil. Make it firm, then- take cut¬ 
tings of the Pink and dibble them in rather 
thickly in lines. Place a sash over the frame 
and keep them rather close until they com¬ 
mence to root, when air should be gradually 
given them. They may be planted out as 
an edging in October. 
2990. Hollyhock Diseased. 
I would be very glad if you could tell me 
what is the matter with the enclosed leaf of 
Hollyhock. Some of my plants I find are 
very badly affected, and 1 want to know 
what I can do with them. (Mystery, 
Sorns.) 
Your plants "are badly attacked by the 
Hollyhock rust caused by a fungus named 
Puccinia malvacearum. The disease is now 
rather far advanced, and probably you were 
not aware of its . presence until the leaves 
showed it badly. You should pick off the 
worst.of the leaves and burn them; then to 
prevent fresh spores from attacking healthy 
leaves you should spray with the Bordeaux 
mixture. This could be made up at the rate 
of 3 lbs. of sulphate of copper, 2 lbs. of 
fresh lime, and 23 gallons of water. Pos¬ 
sibly you can get this made up by some of 
the sundriesmen,. otherwise you will have to 
make the best of it yourself. Dissolve the 
sulphate in a portion of the water, letting 
it stand for some time, then strain it through 
a piece of sacking to get rid of any lumps. 
The lime should be put in another portion 
of the water, after having been well pounded 
to break it up finely. It should also be 
strained to keep out lumps, otherwise it 
would choke the sprayer. The leaves should 
then be sprayed with this at intervals of ten 
days or a fortnight. Next year you should 
endeavour to save the foliage of your plants 
by commencing to spray early, even before- 
you see any sign of the disease. By this 
means you will hold it entirely in check. 
2991. Herbaceous Plants and Roses. 
I wrote to you asking your advice re a 
piece of ground which I wish to lay out, 
and enclosed a plan. 1 fear it must have 
escaped your notice, as I wrote the second 
week in May and wish to begin operations 
as soon as possible. (J. E. S. George 
Johnstone, Glos.) 
Y’ou have overlooked the answer to your 
questions, for they appeared in our issue for 
June 6th, p. 386. Questions are all an¬ 
swered once a week, and we go to press a 
week in advance of the date of their appear¬ 
ance, but you never have to wait so long as 
you seem to think. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
2992. Hazel and Witch Hazel. 
Will you kindly say if the enclosed is 
Witch Hazel? If it is not, would you give 
me a description of Witch Hazel? (Reader 
of the “ G.W.”) 
As far as the specimens go they are evi¬ 
dently a species of Witch Hazel, judging 
from the glandular hairs on the stems and 
leaf stalks and also by the stipules being 
acute with one or two teeth on the sides. 
In order to determine what species it is ne¬ 
cessary to send us blooms in autumn or win¬ 
ter. The common Witch Hazel commences 
blooming in October or November, and seve¬ 
ral of the Japanese ones commence about 
( hristmas and onwards. At that time you 
can easily recognise a Witch Hazel by'the 
long, crumpled, ribbon-like petals of some 
shade of yellow. The leaves are Very simila 
to those of the common Hazel, although th 
plants are in no way related, hence the ay 
plication of the name. As there is nothin 
attractive about the leaves, gardening book 
do not take much notice of them, but confin 
their attention chiefly to the flowers, whic 
appear as above stated. The true Hazel ha 
catkins, and flowers in February or March 
but there are no petals'to the flowers. Th 
fruit, of course, you would readily recog 
nise in the nut or filbert. 
VEGETABLES. 
2993. Cutting Asparagus. 
I have had good success with my Aspara; 
gus this year. The bed was made up thre‘ 
years ago, and is now well established 
How much longer can I continue cuttim 
with safety? Some of the weak shoots no 
worth cutting I left alone, and they are now 
about 2 ft. high. Should I cut them dowr 
or leave them to grow? (T. W. Ewart 
Lancs.) 
It is now time to leave off cutting Aspara 
gus so as to allow the shoots that arisi 
plenty of time to become mature before *ht 
end of the season. It is immaterial whet he s 
you leave them or cut the shoots, but if thi 
bed is not likely to get too crowded we 
should leave them, as it will help tc 
strengthen the crowns. Keep the surface of 
the bed loose to encourage growth and keep 
down weeds. 
FRUIT. 
2994. Tomato Leaves Curled. 
Do you think my Tomatos are going 
wrong or diseased? They are planted on a 
warm border in front of a wall, and all the 
leaves are becoming curled, though they are 
growing and otherwise looking healthy. It 
is the first time I have tried them out of 
doors. The leaves were quite flat when I 
had them. (T. W. Ewart, Lancs.) 
It is of quite common occurrence for the 
leaves of Tomatos out of doors to become' 
rolled back at the edges or curled, but we 
think this is immaterial so long as the 
plants are growing and healthy. If the 
Tomatos are grown against a wall or fence 
they are even more liable to become curled in 
the way you state, but unless they are at¬ 
tacked by disease or insects the curling is 
quite immaterial. You can examine them 
to see whether there is anything the matter. 
An occasional watering at the root will 
assist them if the ‘ situation is dry, but you 
should not give them any manure until at 
least one bunch of fruit is set. 
2995. IWelon Leaves Losing Colour. 
I am sorry to trouble you, but I am at a 
loss to know the cause of the Melon leaves 
going like the enclosed. Any enlightenment 
will be thankfully received. (J. R-, 
Lanarkshire.) 
The specimens you sent us look like a bad 
case of scalding, such as would be produced 
by keeping the house warm and close till 
an advanced period of the day, and then 
suddenly admitting a current of cold air 
While they are still wet, the sun acting upon 
the leaves -especially when the ventilators 
are open, allowing a very rapid evaporation 
of the moisture in the house. This is a sug¬ 
gestion, and we have others. Water thrown 
in some quantity on very warm hot water 
pipes is sometimes the cause of such scald¬ 
ing. An even more likely cause is when 
ammonia gets into the atmosphere in some 
quantity, either from manure in the house 
or from liquid manure in the evaporating 
troughs. The leaves you sent us were very 
thin in texture, suggesting that they' had 
been kept in a rather warm, close atmosphere 
as we indicated. We cannot find any. fungi 
or insect enemies upon the leaves. We think 
they have suddenly been injured in the way 
