THE GARDENING WORLD. October 24, 1908. 
work is done the better will it be for the 
branches left, as they will ripen better than 
if too much crowded with surplus shoots. 
A, in Fig. 2, shows the kind of branches 
to leave. Only a few of such branches 
should be thinned out; but the long bud¬ 
less shoots shown at B, B, must be cut out 
unless a few are required to fill up va¬ 
cancies. 
Fruit Trees to Plant. 
You ought not to delay any longer the 
matter of making out your lists of fruit 
trees which you require for planting. The 
following brief lists will be helpful to many 
persons. 
Apples, Dessert. —Mr. Gladstone, Beauty 
of Bath, Irish Peach, Red Astrachan ; these 
ripen in July and August. Devonshire 
Quarranden, Kerry Pippin, Worcester Pear- 
main, Scarlet Pearmain, September and Oc¬ 
tober. 'Margil, King of the Pippins, Cox’s 
Orange Pippin, Blenheim Orange, Ribston 
Pippin, Cornish Aromatic, October and No¬ 
vember. Adams Pearmain, Melon, Pitmaston 
Pine Apple, Claygate Pearmain, Scarlet 
Nonpareil, Reinette du Canada, December 
and January. 
Apples, Culinary .—Keswick Codlin, 
Duchess of Oldenburg, Lord Suffield, Lord 
Grosvenor, Ecklinville Seedling, Hawthorn- 
den, August and September. Pott’s Seedling, 
Warner’s King, Cellini, Stirling Castle, 
Lord Derby, October and November. Bis¬ 
marck, Malster, Annie Elizabeth, Winter 
Hawthornden, Mere de Menage, December 
and January. Lane’s Prince Albert, Bram- 
ley’s Seedling, Alfriston, Dumelow’s Seed¬ 
ling, Wareham Russet, February to April. 
Pears, Dessert. —Williams’ Bon Chretien, 
Marie Louise, Beurre Superfin, Louise Bon 
of Jersey, Hessle, Doyenne du Comice, 
Emile d’Heyst, Durondeau, Marie Lovise 
d’Uccle, Monarch, Passe Colmar, Olivier 
de Serres, Marguerite Marrillat, Beurre 
d’Amanlis, Bergamotte d’Esperen, Charles 
Ernest, Beurre Giffard, Beurre Diel. 
Pears for Baking or Stewing. —Catillac, 
Uvedale’s St. Germain, Verulam, Leon le 
Cleic de Laval. A further list of other 
kinds of fruits will be given in next week’s 
calendar. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Gathering Seeds. 
Seeds of Asparagus and Beetroot may be 
gathered and carefully dried on sheets of 
paper laid out on the shelf of a glass struc¬ 
ture, or in a shed, as shown in Fig. 3. The 
seeds ought not to be exposed to the full rays 
of the sun as would be the case if they were 
placed in southern aspects. The sun should 
not shine directly upon the seeds. Broad, 
Runner and Dwarf Beans, and Peas should 
be left in the pods until next February, but 
it is important that the pods be dry when 
gathered and stored in small quantities in 
bags in a cool, but dry, and frost-proof 
shed. 
Vegetable Marrows and Pumpkins. 
These should be gathered and suspended 
by string from the rafters of an open shed. 
Potatos. 
Lift all late varieties as soon as the tops 
fade. No good will accrue by leaving the 
tubers in the ground after the haulm has 
decayed. Very carefully pick out any dis¬ 
eased tubers before putting the large ones in 
clamps, and pick out seed tubers, too; do 
not put them in the clamps for picking out 
in spring ; they must have all the light and 
air possible during the winter. 
Hoeing. 
■Continue to use the hoe between growing 
crops, and, in fact, in any part of the gar¬ 
den where young weeds are growing. But 
do this work on a fine day. Foxglove. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Labels for Potted Bulbs. 
The main batch of bulbs—Tulips, Narcissi, 
Hyacinths, etc., should now be potted up 
without delay if a grand display is de¬ 
sired in the spring, and if a label indicat¬ 
ing the variety and date of potting is in¬ 
serted in each before they are plunged, it 
will prove a good thing, and may save much 
confusion at a later date, besides being use¬ 
ful for future reference as to the time re¬ 
quired to bring the different sorts to per¬ 
fection. 
The earliest Roman Hyaainths potted some 
weeks back may now be lifted from the ashes 
or fibre in which they are buried, and placed 
in mild heat. They should be kept in par¬ 
tial shade, as it is not advisable to expose 
the blanched growths to strong daylight 
till they have gradually assumed their 
natural tint. 
Now that the garden outside is getting 
dull it behoves us to pay constant attention to 
the decoration of greenhouse and conserva¬ 
tory, as so much depends on taste and knack 
in arranging the various plants, and as at 
this season every ray of daylight is valuable, 
the amateur should make a point of keeping 
the glass as clean as possible, which not only 
adds to the appearance of the structure, but 
is of real benefit to the plants. 
Camellias. 
These are fine noble-looking plants if well 
grown, and produce their rosette-like blos¬ 
soms at a time when they are much appre¬ 
ciated. ’Specimens in tubs or pots (for some 
gardeners prefer to plant them out) should 
be rehoused ere now, and a light sprinkling 
may be indulged in during the forenoon for 
a few days after bringing them in. Sudden 
changes of temperature must be guarded 
against, and a sufficiency of water given 
them, avoiding either excess of moisture, 
or dryness to the roots ; whilst alternate ap¬ 
plications of liquid manure will greatly 
assist the flower buds, and do much to pre¬ 
vent them falling off before expanding, 
which is a rather common cause for com¬ 
plaint amongst amateurs. 
Provided that the receptacles containing 
them are provided with perfect drainage, 
the} r should do well treated thus, excessive 
heat being totally unnecessary, as they may 
be quite successfully grown in a temperature 
of between 45 degs. and 50 degs. 
Early Tomatos. 
Elowever early in the year Tomato seed 
is sown it is only under exceptional circum¬ 
stances that fruit is to hand before May 
or the first week in June, and those who in¬ 
serted a sprinkling of seed, or took cuttings 
from existing plants (an admirable method, 
by the bye) some weeks back as advised 
will have done well. The resultant plants 
should be potted off as necessary, never al¬ 
lowing them to become potbound. Good 
sandy soil, free from manure, will suit them 
for the present, and, whilst small, they may 
be placed on a light shelf near the glass, 
with a free play of air around them when¬ 
ever the weather permits, but they must be 
guarded against the dreaded fogs, which 
play havoc during the winter months with 
so many of our greenhouse treasures if not 
rigorously kept out of the structure. 
If all goes well and fortune favours, we 
should have ripe Tomatos from these plants 
early in April or even before. 
A Fine Annual for Spring- Blooming. 
An autumn sowing of annuals is always 
worth the trouble, providing a bright, early 
display to be followed in succession by the 
spring-reared plants. The dainty butterfly¬ 
like Schizanthus no amateur should miss; 
it is really a gem, and a pinch of seed 
should be started at once. S. wisetonens-is 
is a fine compact-growing variety, and the 
white-spotted S. retusus is exceedinglv 
pretty. 
There are no difficulties in the way of cul¬ 
ture, even to the veriest novice. Any ordin- 
aiy light Soil will suit them, and provided 
the seedlings are shifted on as necessary, 
they will do well in a cool greenhouse 
through the winter. Pinch them back occa¬ 
sionally to induce them to break and form 
fine bushy plants, blooming profusely in six- 
inch pots in the spring. 
The most effective way of staging flower¬ 
ing plants is to group them with some dwarf¬ 
growing ferns or other foliage plants placed 
immediately in front of them. 
Winter-Flowering Carnations. 
Rooted cuttings or layers of these fa¬ 
vourites should be potted up (if not already 
done) in four- or five-inch pots, in which 
they may remain till the spring, and will 
require a light, airy position in a cool house, 
of course keeping them as near the glass as 
possible. Plants showing bloom (if the pots 
containing them are filled with roots) may 
receive an occasional application of liquid 
manure. A temperature of about 50 degs. 
with plenty of ventilation will induce the 
buds to open out well, and . if specimen 
flowers are desired, of course disbudding 
must be resorted to. 
Potting Up Spiraeas. 
The pure white S. japonica, or the yet 
more beautiful pale pink variety Peach 
Blossom, are so useful for cutting for sprays 
or buttonholes, that they should be grown 
by everyone possessing a greenhouse. Im¬ 
ported roots are now on sale, and no time 
should be lost in purchasing and potting 
them. They do not require large pots, pro¬ 
viding there is room for the rootstock and 
a little space for soil that is sufficient. The 
ordinary potting compost will do, with the 
addition of a pinch of Clay’s fertiliser, and 
it is an advantage to plunge the pots in ashes 
or fibre for a few weeks before coaxing.them 
into active top-growth. When growing 
freely they require.an abundance of water, 
in fact many people stand the pots in saucers 
containing some, and that without harm. 
G. A. F. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Cochliodas. 
This genus is closely allied to the Odonto- 
glossums and is found to do well in the coo! 
division, practically under the same condi¬ 
tions of culture as that generally found suc¬ 
cessful to the cultivation of the Odonto- 
glossums. There are not more than four 
species in cultivation at the present time, 
these being C. noetzliana, the finest of the 
ger.us, producing long spikes of orange- 
scarlet flowers with the disc of the lip yel¬ 
low. It is well worthy of every considera¬ 
tion by amateurs, and where it can be in¬ 
duced to grow and flower well it is one of 
the most attractive Orchids, useful for 
either exhibition or for cut flower purposes, 
lasting a long time in perfection. This 
species is a most serviceable plant to the 
hybridist, as it cross-fertiilises with most of 
the allied genera of Orchids and has already 
produced many striking bigeneric hybrids 
when intercrossed with the Odontoglossums. 
There is plenty of room still remaining, and 
I have no doubt many desirable additions 
will be made from its influence with other 
species in the near future. 
Cultivation. 
I find that this plant does well in shallow 
pans or pots treated under the same condi¬ 
tions as the Odontoglossums. The plants 
should not be disturbed more frequently for 
repotting than is absolutely necessary, and 
it is desirable thus to use a potting compost 
