The Flower Garden. 
During the recent spell of hot, dry 
weather, it was not possible to lift and re¬ 
plant many kinds of border plants and 
shrubs with the ease that one would like to. 
But in many districts the rains have made 
:he soil very moist, and it now adheres nicely 
to the roots of the lifted plants. This is 
what we like to see, as any serious check 
to the subjects, especially shrubs and trees, 
should be avoided if possible. 
Border Carnations. 
The rooted layers of choice varieties 
should be lifted during the present week 
md be planted in cool frames, there to re- 
nain until next spring. Although these Car¬ 
nations are hardy and will withstand the 
weather of any ordinary winter, it is not 
wise, to run any risk and expose them need¬ 
lessly. A wooden frame, or any structure 
that can be protected with mats or litter, 
will do for the layers. Low turf walls may 
be put up to form a frame for the young 
plants, and glass lights placed over them. 
But when the weather is favourable the 
lights should be removed. 
Fig. i shows how to place the rooted 
layers in the frame. First put down some 
roarse compost—lumpy, turfy loam and leaf- 
soil, mixed—as shown at A, and then four 
inches of fine soil, as shown at B. Plant the 
layers in this about seven inches apart each 
way, pressing down the compost around the 
roots firmly with your fingers, and finish the 
work by scattering a small quantity of coarse 
and around the plants on the surface of the 
soil. 
Planting Tulips. 
During this week you should plant as 
many Tulips as you can out of the total 
lumber you intend to grow. In heavy soils 
lo not put in the bulbs quite as deep as in 
lighter ground, and, in the former case, be 
;ure you surround each bulb with a small 
quantity of sand. Tulips look well in beds 
issociated with Aubrietias, Silene, Myosotis 
>r White Arabis, the last-named plants be- 
ng used as a groundwork to the Tulips. 
Sed, or scarlet and white Tulips may be 
issociated with the Myosotis, or scarlet 
Tulips with the Arabis, and so on. One 
rolour of Tulip in each bed, where other 
finds of plants are used as a groundwork 
for them, will be the most effective. Of 
course, Hyacinths and other kinds of bulbs 
nay also be planted now. 
-ily of the Valley. 
Where the leaves of these have quite faded 
forthwith remove them by hand ; do not 
forcibly rake them off the border with an 
ron-toothed rake, as many crowns may thus 
; te spoiled. 
Neglected beds of Lily of the Valley 
’hould receive prompt attention. These roots 
will thrive amazingly in a naturally sandy 
J ioil, but where so grown the crowns and top 
Portion of the roots often become fully ex¬ 
posed. In such a case, put on a tcp-dressing 
>f sifted leaf-soil and sand mixed, cover- 
ng all evenly except the points of the 
'rowns. 
tladioli. 
Lift the ripened corms of these at once. 
3 o not forcibly pull them by laying hold of 
he faded stems, but gently raise them with 
a strong garden fork. Leave all the small 
corms, and as much soil as possible attached 
to the large corms, then the corms will all 
ripen off better and be firmer. Tie the tops 
loosely together, making up small bundles, 
Fig. i. Plant rooted layers of Carnations 
in 'a cool frame for the winter; A, coarse 
compost; B, some finer loam, leaf soil, and 
sand. 
Fig. 2. Prune Black Currant bushes now. 
The old branches, as shown by the dark 
lines, are the ones lo cut off. 
Fig. 3. Lift and store ]erusalcm Artichokes : 
large ones, as shown at A, must be stored 
as shown at B. 
and suspend them in-a cool glass, structure 
exposed to the sunshine, and where abun¬ 
dance of air can be admitted during fine 
weather. Placed in such a position, the 
Gladioli will soon fully mature. 
715 
The Fruit Garden. 
Pruning Black Currant Bushes. 
Commence tiler pruning of these bushes 
forthwith. Deal with those growing on 
north or other cool borders first, finishing 
the work by pruning those bushes growing 
in the open quarters. Black Currants bear 
fruit on young wood as well as on the older. 
The system of pruning is quite different to 
that of the red and white Currant. In the 
case of the latter the young shoots are cut 
back to within a few eyes, or buds, of their 
base, and the leaders are slightly shortened, 
but when pruning the Black Currant it is 
only necessary to thin out a number of old 
branches in order to let in light and air to 
those retained, and so prevent overcrowding 
of branches next year. 
The branches with dark lines across them 
in Fig. 2 are the ones to cut out in the case 
of an old bush. If the pruning be done 
every year, there will not be many branches 
requiring to be cut out. 
Cuttings of Bush Fruit. 
While engaged in pruning the trees, select 
the best shoots for inserting as cuttings. If 
it is not possible to put in the cuttings forth¬ 
with, label them, tie them in small bundles 
and simply half-bury them in the soil on the 
north side of a wall or fence. 
The Fruit Room. 
Carefully examine the contents of this 
room about mid-day on a light day, when 
there will be sufficient light to penetrate to 
the corners and so enable you to detect 
any decaying specimens. One decaying 
fruit, left even for a few days in contact 
with sound ones, will cause the latter to 
decay also. But while engaged *in examining 
the fruits, do not handle them unnecessarily, 
as they keep best if left alone—untouched. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
In this department commence the winter 
trenching of the soil in earnest now. Ground 
intended for root crops such as Parsnips, 
Carrots, Beetroot, Turnips, Peas and Runner 
Beans, should be dealt with first. Manure, 
too, should be dug into all heavy soils which 
are intended to be cropped by the above next 
year. Indeed, it is advisable to manure all 
vacant ground now which is clayey and is 
being dug or trenched. Speaking of trench¬ 
ing, I would strongly advise amateurs to 
trench as much ground as possible, and to 
leave the top portion in a rough, lump}- con¬ 
dition. 
Lifting and Storing Jerusalem Arti¬ 
chokes. 
This work should now be done. The stems 
are quite ripe enough for removal, and the 
tubers should be lifted and stored before the 
soil gets saturated with the cold winter 
rains. 
The large tubers which measure about 
2' 2 ins. across, as shown at A, are the ones 
to store for eating purposes. The smaller 
ones should be kept for setting again next 
March. Store the iarge tubers in sheds as 
shown at B in Fig. 3. 
Leaves and Litter. 
Collect all good leaves and place them in 
a heap for use, eventually, in the making up 
of hotbeds. Also put very litter}' manure in 
an open shed for mixing with the leaves 
when the latter are used. 
Cleaning Ground. 
At this season damaged leaves soon decay; 
it is important that all crops be kept quite 
clean, and so on the finest day of the week 
clear away all decaying foliage and large 
weeds and make the surroundings of the 
crops sweet and clean. 
Foxglove. 
