THE GARDENING WORLD. November 14, 1908; 
winter or spring, a fresh application of 
manure would be unnecessary for the above. 
If the soil is poor some well-decayed stable 
manure or even leaf-mould would prove of 
great benefit. Put the dressing of manure or 
leaves on the soil and dig it in. You can 
then commence the planting of all of the 
subjects you mention with the exception, 
perhaps, of Aquilegias if you are in any 
way troubled with slugs. We presume the)' 
are only of moderate size and in that case 
they might remain where they are till spring. 
The others, if planted at once, will get well 
established before winter .and flower well in 
spring. 
3371. Planting- Pansies and Violas. 
I followed some instructions given 1 in your 
paper last summer about putting in cuttings 
early to get good rooted plants of Pansies 
and Violas. I also read somewhere that they 
should be kept in a cold frame all the winter. 
Would you please say what I am to do with 
my stock of plants and oblige. (Tom Jack- 
son, Berks.) 
Seeing that you put the cuttings in early 
it meant that you are to get rooted plants 
ready to put into their flowering quarters in 
the autumn. If your soil is not too heavy 
your best plan would be to plant out those 
early rooted Pansies and Violas at once. 
Prepare the soil by digging and manuring 
and plant firmly. In the case of Pansies 
and Violas to be kept in a cold frame, this 
refers to cuttings taken in September and 
intended to be sheltered by a frame in dis¬ 
tricts where the soil is too heavy or near 
large and smoky towns. 
LAWNS. 
3372. Small Daisies on Lawn. 
The lawn in front of our house consists of 
a soft kind of .grass that is full of very small 
daisies, and I do not see how I am to get 
rid of them, though I applied lawn sand, as 
recommended by a friend. Have I done 
right, or is my method at fault? (R. D. M., 
Middlesex.) 
Lawn sand is most effective during dry 
weather, and as there has been much rain 
lately or heavy dews at night, it means that 
the active ingredient of the lawn sand gets 
dissolved and carried away by the moisture. 
Your best plan now would be to wait until 
the weather gets fairly dry by the end of 
Maroh or the beginning of April, and have 
the lawn sand dusted over the Daisies then. 
If the turf is fairly dry for twenty-four 
hours that should serve to destroy the 
Daisies. See that the lawn sand is evenly 
sprinkled all over the Daisies, even if you 
apply the lawn sand only in those portions 
where the Daisies are growing. As it serves 
to fertilise the grass, however, the best plan 
is to give the whole of the lawn a sprinkle 
so as to make growth regular. 
ROSES. 
3373. Roses for Heavy Soil. 
I think you have stated somewhere that 
2 ft. apart is a good distance for bush Rose 
trees. Will you kindly advise me and name 
a dozen that you think would succeed on my 
heavy clay soil? (R. D. M., Middlesex.) 
If you intend to prune the Roses regu¬ 
larly, as for exhibition or something near 
that method of pruning, 2 ft. would make a 
good distance apart. It is merely a ques¬ 
tion of only leaving a sufficient number of 
shoots each year at pruning time so as to 
properly occupy the ground, while at the 
same time preventing overcrowding. Roses 
that would grow with you, if properly plan¬ 
ted, are Mrs. J. Laing, Ulrich Brunner, 
General Jacqueminot, Suzanne M. Rodoca- 
nachi and Frau Karl Druschki, all Hybrid 
Perpetuals. Probably La France, Mme. 
Ravsry and Gruss an Teplitz are excellent 
Hybrid Teas. We think you should have 
no difficulty in growing such Tea Roses as 
Lady Roberts, White Maman Codhet and G. 
Nabonnand. 
3 3 74. Pegging Down Laurette Mes- 
simy. 
I am trying to fill a bed in my grass plot 
C'f Laurette Messimy Rose by pegging it 
down. It is now making immense new 
sheets. Will you tell me when and how to 
prune it and give me some hints as to peg¬ 
ging it down, so as to keep it uniform? 
(YVaratah, Devon.) 
Laurette Messimy is usually considered a 
China Rose of moderate growth, and is 
usually pretty hard pruned in the month of 
March. Wie .presume, however, that you 
have determined that it is correctly so 
named. The flowers should be pale rose 
with a yellow base. The variety may be 
used to excellent purpose for bedding, and 
the pruning and the pegging down could be 
done from the middle to the end of March. 
When Roses are pegged down pruning is re¬ 
duced to a minimum. All dead wood should, 
of course, be cut away, as well as weak twigs 
that would not flower well; then the strong 
shoots may have the unripened tip cut off 
and the remainder pegged down to the 
ground their full length. Have some strong 
wooden pegs at hand when about to com¬ 
mence this work, then carefully bend a shoot 
in position without breaking it and push the 
peg well into the soil to hold it there. The 
advantage of pegging down Roses is to get 
the ground covered all over ; consequently, 
instead of a few flowering shoots from the 
top of these strong stems you may expect 
side shoots along their whole ' length. 
When trimming and pegging down the 
Rose, if the shoots are too crowded 
after removing dead and useless wood it 
would be necessary to remove some of the 
older stems. A little pegging might be done 
in the course of the summer if there are 
bare portions of ground, but the usual plan 
is to let the young wood from the base grow 
upright in summer and then to peg this 
down in the following spring. By that time 
you would have old shoots for a certainty 
that should come away to make room for the 
young ones. 
3 3 75. Roses Not Succeeding 1 . 
I have a climbing Crimson Rambler Rose 
tree, and another I do not know the name of, 
on the wall of a house facing west, but it 
is a windy situation and they do not look a.t 
all well. Will you give me the names of 
two others that would succeed there, or must 
I plant something else? Will these grow if 
planted anywhere else? (G. T. M., Worces¬ 
tershire.) 
In the case of Roses it is not a matter of 
haidiness, for there are really no Roses that 
like to be placed in windy situations. They 
tear the leaves and branches about with then 
own thorns when lashed about by the wind. 
A better plan would be to cut these Roses 
back, 'have them carefully lifted with as 
many fibrous roots as possible and planted 
in some more sheltered part of the garden, 
where they may be trained to pillars or 
arches according to convenience. For the 
windy situation, you should plant one or 
other of C ra.taegus Pyracantha I.elandi, 
Cotoneaster microphylla, or the white Jas¬ 
mine (Jiasminum officinale). These will be 
more .likely to succeed, because they are 
hardy and their leaves are small, so that they 
are not likely to be injured so much by 
being driven about with the wind. 
337 6. Pruning- Moss Roses. 
I have two .Moss Roses, two years planted, 
and they have made a fair amount of 
growth, .but did not flower well last summer. 
I pruned them fairly hard i.n March. Was 
I right in pruning them then, or should they 
be pruned the same time as Tea Roses ? I 
have seen large bushes of them, but mine do 
not seem to make enough wood to flower well. 
Your advice would be highly esteemed. (L. 
C. Waller, Cornwall.) 
When Moss Roses are pruned very hard 
you limit them to a few flowers, even if 
those flowers are larger than on unpruned 
bushes. Where they are grown purely for 
the sake of cut flowers they should not be 
hard pruned. A better plan would be to thin 
out old or weak shoots where the bush is 
crowded, and then if there are any un 
ripened tips' they could also be removed. 
When lightly _ pruned in this fashion, but 
thinned chiefly, they gradually attain the 
size of large bushes and produce -mall 
flowers in large quantity. As they are so 
very hardy, it does not matter whether you 
prune them early or late. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3377- Berried Evergreen Shrubs. 
Will you kindly name about half a dozen 
evergreen shrubs with berries in winter, as 
I would like to plant a bed on the lawn in 
front of the house. I do not like to see bare 
earth all the winter. Can they be planted 
now and lifted in spring? (W. S., Devon.) 
Plants that would suit this purpose are 
Aucuba japonica, Pernettya mucronata. 
Skimmia japo-nica, S. Fortunei, Crataegus 
Pyracantha Lelandi, and Gaultheria pro- 
cumbens. The last-named should be used as 
an edging, as it is very dwarf. The Cratae¬ 
gus and Aucuba would ultimately get tall 
and should be planted in the centre. The 
above plants can be put in the bed at pre¬ 
sent and lifted in spring, but we are not 
sure that they would fruit well every year 
if lifted in that way. They would have to 
be taken from the beds in April to do them 
justice, so that they could get established, 
or partly so, before -the advent of dry, hot 
weather. To keep up a -bed on this plan it 
would be necessary to have plenty of plants 
in the reserve garden and always to be pro¬ 
pagating them to get plants of small size. 
To get berries on the Aucuba it would be ne¬ 
cessary to plant the male variety, A.j. Vera. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3378. Points of an Anemone-Pompon. 
Would you discuss the points of an 
Anemone-Pompon, as you have done the 
other types of Anemone-Chrysanthemum for 
exhibition? (H. Staddon, Essex.) 
Anemone-Pompons are staged at exhibi¬ 
tions much in the same way as ordinary 
Pompons, and they are judged alike, so that 
we can consider them both in this note. An 
Anemone-Pompon has, of course, a disc 
which should be full, with short horizon¬ 
tal rays, making a circular outline. All 
Pompons are shown in bunches of three 
blooms, each on its own stem. A stand of a 
dozen varieties would be arranged in three 
rows of four In each row on a board. The 
back row should be raised—say, 7 in.—above 
the show-board, the middle row 5^ in., and 
the front row 4^ in. This shows off the 
flowers to advantage. Unless the schedule 
states the contrary, the flowers should be dis¬ 
budded, but usually there are classes for both 
disbudded and not disbudded flowers. The 
size of the blooms where disbudded flower- 
are wanted is a strong point. The flowers 
should also be full or well up in the centre 
in either types of Po-mpon. The flowers 
should be of clear and bright colours, in 
prime condition, and should be arranged so 
that the dark colours are evenly distributed 
over the board. If the varieties selected were 
all dark or all light coloured it would tell 
against them. Variety is wanted. The 
foliage should be good, and it should belong 
to the flowers exhibited. Another point is 
the method of .arrangement, which should be 
neat and attractive. Badly arranged flowers, 
or those that are not uniform in size, will 
tell against the exhibitor. 
