November 21 , 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
dyacir?ths in Glasses apd Bowls, 
Hyacinths are admirably suited for 
owing in glasses of water and bowls 
id vases filled with moss fibre, and with 
ry little trouble excellent results can 
: obtained. The single-flowered var¬ 
ies are the best for growing in water, 
hist the glasses should be those speci- 
lv made for the purpose. Clean rain 
iter should always be used for filling 
e glasses as it contains more plant 
od than hard water, and to keep it 
r eet and inoffensive as long as possible 
id so obviate frequent changing, a few 
eces of wood charcoal should be placed 
it. The water in each glass should 
st reach the base of the bulb when it 
placed in position as shown in Fig. 1 
id not cover a portion of the bulb as 
Fig. 2—a frequently made mistake, 
aich usually causes failure. 
Stand the glasses in a cool, dark cup? 
>ard or other similar position and in 
om four to six weeks roots should have 
•own almost to the bottom as in Fig. 3, 
den the bulbs should be gradually in 
-ed to the light and afterwards be 
aced in a light airy position close to 
,e glasss where the temperature is as 
[liable as possible, as Hyacinths do not 
> well when subject to great or sudden 
;at or cold. The water in the glasses 
.ould be replenished as often as neces¬ 
sary to keep it at the desired level, and 
the bloom spikes be supported in good 
time with proper wires. 
Another method of growing Hyacinths 
in water is illustrated in Fig. 4, a bowl 
being used instead of glasses. The bowl 
should be partly filled with shingle or 
gravel with which a small quantity of char¬ 
coal has been mixed and then rain-water 
be poured in until it reaches the level of 
the top of the shingle or gravel. Place 
the bulbs in position on the shingle and 
fill in the intervening space with more 
shingle, leaving the crowns of the bulbs 
just visible as shown. The bowl should 
be placed in the dark until plenty of 
roots have been emitted and the bulbs 
be treated as before, the water, of course, 
being kept just level with the base of 
the bulbs. 
Moss fibre can be obtained from the 
majority of nurserymen, and by planting 
a few bulbs at intervals of two or three 
weeks in vases or bowls filled with fibre, 
a succession of flowers can be obtained 
throughout the winter. The fibre should 
be nicely moist when placed in the bowls 
and be pressed moderately firm, the 
bulbs being planted in it fairly close 
together, with the crowns just showing 
above the surface as shown in Fig. 5. 
The bowl should be placed on a shelf 
7 2 5 
or in a shady corner and be covered 
with a newspaper and not exposed to the 
light until plenty of roots have been 
emitted, which should be in about a 
month’s time. If the fibre is moist when 
the bulbs are put in, water will not be 
required for the first two or three weeks, 
but after the fibre becomes filled with 
roots it must be kept regularly' moist. 
The appearance of the bowls or vases is 
considerably improved by' covering the 
surface of the fibre with green moss as 
shown in Fig. 6 after growth has com¬ 
menced. Ortus. 
-- 
Mignonette 
for the Greenhouse. 
This well-known plant can be grown 
with comparative ease in pots, and when 
in flower will be found to be most use¬ 
ful for cutting to arrange with other 
flowers. Six-inch pots are the best for 
general culture. These should be well 
drained, and if a little poultry manure 
is available, a slight sprinkling should 
be put upon the drainage. The soil 
should be loam of good quality, with 
either sand or road grit added to it, and 
if a little old mortar rubble is to be had, 
this should be added also. After this 
soil has been well mixed together, the 
pots should be fiUed up to within a little 
less than an inch of the rim, using a 
rammer to make it as firm as possible, 
this being most essential in Mignonette 
culture. About a dozen seeds should 
be sown on this surface in each pot, 
afterwards sprinkling a little more fine 
soil upon the top, and pressing that down 
with the hands. A good watering should 
be given, and the pots either placed in a 
cold frame or near the glass in a green¬ 
house. Heat is not needed, but merely 
protection. 
When the seeds are up and growing 
freely, the weakest ones should be 
thinned out where there are more than 
six good plants, that number being quite 
sufficient. After this, let them have 
plenty of ventilation. If in a frame, the 
light may be left off during the day; 
if in a greenhouse, a shelf is the best 
place for them. The chief point after¬ 
wards to be observed is that of watering. 
They' should never be allowed to get dry, 
neither should the soil, on the other 
hand, be sodden with water excess. If two 
or three sowings are made at intervals 
of about one month from the middle of 
August, a succession will be obtained that 
will last into the spring. The best kinds 
to grow' in pots are, Mashet, a new variety 
of French origin, of very dwarf growth, 
and with large dense spikes of dark red 
flowers. Miles’ Hybrid Spiral has very 
long spikes, and is reliable as a hardy 
kind. Garaway’s White has white 
flowers, and is a good kind for the winter. 
These are all quite distinct, and excel¬ 
lent for pots. As the plants increase in 
strength, some slight support with sticks 
will be necessary. 
Miss D. Sparkes. 
-f+4- 
Primroses, Christmas Roses and Roses 
are at present blooming in Aberdeen 
gardens. 
Hyacinths in Glasses and Bowls. 
