7^8 THE GARDENING WORLD. November 21, 1908. 
but place the bundles in a cool structure safe 
from frost, and before planting dip the roots 
in water. 
In rather clayey soils plant almost on the 
surface and place mould over the roots. 
See that each specimen is well staked. 
Fig. 2 shows how a tree should be 
planted. Having made wide, shallow holes, 
thoroughly break up the soil in the bottom 
of the hole as shown at A; on this loose soil 
place the roots, spreading them out well 
as shown at 15 . The loosened soil at A and 
the other which is put in to cover the roots 
must be made firm, then the roots will be 
well embedded. 
Crease Bands on Fruit Trees. 1 
Strips of cloth should be well greased and 
wrapped round the trunks of fruit trees to 
pievent the wingless female moth climbing 
to the branches. Ordinary cart grease will 
do. Wrap the bands several times round 
the trunk about i ft. from the ground. 
As the grease dries up, put on more, and 
continue to renew the grease every few 
weeks up to next April. 
Black Currauits. 
liorders facing the north, behind walls, 
are often allowed to remain unoccupied by 
fruit trees. This is a pity because Black 
Currants will thrive well in such borders, 
and they may be planted now ; in fact all 
kinds of hardy fruit trees may now be 
planted. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Protecting Cauliflowers. 
Cauliflowers are more tender than Broccoli, 
and the flowers of late varieties, such as 
Veitch’s Autumn Giant, should, if well ad¬ 
vanced, be lifted and placed in cool frames 
as shown in Fig. ,3. The plants may be 
packed close together in the frame as shown 
at A, but the glass lights must be tilted to 
Fig. 3 shows how to -pack C auli flower 
plants in a frame as a protection against 
severe frost; A, soil placed over roots; B, 
Cauliflowers almost ready for use. Frame 
faces north. 
allow of plenty of air passing over the plants 
at B. If you do not possess a cool frame, 
or have not one available, you may take out 
a spadeful of soil on the north side of each 
plant, press down the latter towards the 
north, and then place the soil on the top 
of the stem to keep the plant ir. position. 
Broad Beans. 
Some seeds may now be sown in deeply- 
dug soil, selecting a border which is nice 
and dry. Sow the seeds in shallow drills 
and cover them with soil and then a sur¬ 
facing of ashes. 
Peas. 
On a warm, sheltered border sow Peas in 
broad drills, and cover them with dust-dry 
soil first before putting on the ordinary 
garden loam. To prevent mice, rats and 
birds eating the seeds and young growths, 
moisten the Peas and then roll them in red 
lead before you sow them. 
Foxglove. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Arranging the Plants. 
Too much thought and care cannot be 
given to this important detail. The interest 
in, and appearance of the greenhouse and 
conservatory during these dull days depends 
greatly on the ability of the amateur to 
make the most of the plants he possesses. 
But there is something besides this, not only 
should they be arranged in a manner pleas¬ 
ing to the eye, but each one should be placed 
in that position which is best suited for its 
individual welfare, for alas, only too often 
does one see all subjects treated in precisely 
fhe same way, quite irrespective of their 
natural habits and requirements. 
Those which experience teaches are liable 
to grow straggling should be given a place 
near the glass to discourage this tendency, 
whilst those hardy plants which do not need 
much artificial heat to bring them to perfec¬ 
tion may be relegated to the cooler end of 
the structure in order that the more tender 
plants may receive full benefit from the 
warmth thrown off from the hot-water pipes. 
It is this careful study of the needs and 
peculiarities of each plant that means suc¬ 
cess, and, assuming that what is worth grow¬ 
ing is worth growing well, it behoves the 
amateur to treat each one by itself and not 
the collection as a whole. 
Decorative Poinsettias. 
iSome small neatly'-grown plants of Poin- 
settia pulcherrima, raised from cuttings 
taken in spring, are now proving their worth 
as decorative subjects, and will continue to 
do so for some considerable time to come. 
The quantity and coloration of their showy 
bracts will be much increased and intensified 
by occasional applications of soot water, 
which, I may add, is the only feeding these 
beautiful plants require. When they com¬ 
mence to go off it is a sign that they need 
a rest, after which they may be pruned back 
and restarted into active growth to provide 
fine specimen plants for another season. 
Useful anti Ornamental. 
When we can easily combine the useful 
and the ornamental it is as well to do so, 
and, were the common ^or garden Parsley 
difficult to grow, it would, I feel sure, be 
prized as a foliage plant. Anyway, a few 
roots raised from the kitchen garden, neatly 
tiimmecl, and inserted in boxes, will, if 
placed in any odd corner of the greenhouse, 
make rapid and clean growth, and, whilst 
being by no means unsightly (especially if 
the boxes be painted on the outside) will 
come in very handy later on for kitchen pur¬ 
poses. 
Ailamandas in Winter. 
These are beautiful climbers indeed, and 
ihough not suited, perhaps, for a cool green¬ 
house, should be grown by every amateur 
who is fortunate enough to possess a stove 
or warm structure. 
As the plants cease to produce their lovely 
blossoms they should be allowed a well- 
earned rest, which in their case only means 
a gradual witholding of moisture during the 
winter months. T he shoots may be shortened 
at the same time, although the pruning 
proper should be deferred for awhile. This 
cutting back is advantageous in two ways ; 
it assists the remaining wood to ripen and 
admits of more needful daylight reaching 
the plants on the staging beneath. 
White Marguerites. 
Old plants of the true White Marguerite 
(Chrysanthemum frutescens) which have been 
doing service in the garden or window boxes 
during summer should not be thrown away, 
at any rate before a sufficient supply of cut¬ 
tings have been taken to provide a stock 
for next season’s use. Sever the tops of the 
shoots about three inches in length, cutting 
clean through just below a joint, and after 
stripping oft all the lower leaves insert them 
two or three inches apart in boxes of sandv 
soil. They may then be placed on a light 
shelf in the greenhouse and sparingh 
watered as necessary, removing any decav¬ 
ing leaves, and carefully guarding their! 
against “ damping off.” 
If room is plentiful, the old plants can 
then be further cut back and potted up to 
form large specimens for flowering next 
year ; they will come in handy for filling 
up any gaps in the mixed border it nothing 
else, although they prove very useful 'for 
planting in tubs or large baskets. 
Beautiful Bouvardias. 
Dainty and delicate, the Bouvardias are 
amongst the finest of greenhouse plants, and 
spiing-struck cuttings should now, if pro-i 
perly attended to and pinched back during 
the summer months, be fine bushy specimens, 
most useful for winter decoration or for pro¬ 
viding a quantity of really valuable cut 
flowers. A steady and rather moist tem¬ 
perature of about 55 degs. will bring then, 
on nicely, though they will be quite safe 
with a few degrees less. A light spraving 
will also prove beneficial on warm sunny 
days, and where the flower buds are visible 
a little liquid manure will prove beneficial, 
but over-feeding must be carefully avoided 
and more especially where winter-flowering 
plants are concerned. 
One of the best varieties for blooming at 
this time of the year is undoubtedly the 
white Bouvardia jasminiflora, which shares 
with B. Flumboldti the distinction of being 
finely scented. The summer-flowering plants 
should now be kept moderately dry to induce 
them to rest preparatory to starting them in 
spring. 
Treatment of Succulents. 
■Cacti and their relatives are becoming 
very popular with amateurs, probably be¬ 
cause there is so little trouble and so few 
difficulties connected with their culture. 
The best place for them at the present season 
is the top shelf in the greenhouse, where 
they will be safe from drips from other 
plants, or any excess of moisture, which dur 
ing the winter months, often proves disas 
tious to them. Provided frost is excluded 
they will require but little attention till 
spring arrives, when they can be repotted 
1 f necessary. 
G. A. F. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 1 
Seedling- Orchids. 
Having entered upon what may be re¬ 
garded as the winter season proper, the con¬ 
ditions which are now likely to prevail dur¬ 
ing the next few weeks are not those usually 
conducive to the growth of our plants to 
-any perceptible extent. It is often with 
such conditions that difficulties are met with 
in the treatment of young seedling Orchids. 
Diminished light and sun heat tends to re¬ 
tard growth as well as evaporation, so that 
there is a constant possibility of stagnation, 
both in. the atmosphere and when applying 
root moisture to the plants. In the early 
stages, say from the first leaf completing to 
the development of the third leaf, I con¬ 
sider it a good plan to either suspend such 
plants or place them on a shelf within a few 
inches of the roof glass, as this enables them 
to receive every benefit from all available 
light, and also places them in a position 
where there is constant movement of the air, 
and thus evaporation is assisted. I consider 
that all seedling plants should be grown 
within a reasonable distance of the roof 
glass at all times, as this prevents the de¬ 
veloping growth becoming unduly drawn, 
and so hardens them and adds texture and 
substance to the leaves. Root moisture must 
