fwember 21, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
73 1 
Ic'rame for the winter and sow in March 
ie the ground is ready. You could trans- 
ai the seedlings about the beginning of 
)V nber or in the March following after 
u iave seen how many of them are to 
J This transplanting is necessary to 
[0 them room to get strong, as seedlings 
1 one year old would not be strong 
0 ;h for budding purposes, 
jc, Layer of Dorothy Perkins. 
] t summer I layered a branch, of 
3 hy Perkins Rose tree, and I think it is 
oil. When may I cut it away and plant 
c ? Should it be pruned the first year, 
idiow much? (W. Holt, Glos.) 
I fairly well rooted it would, no doubt, 
f severed from the parent and planted 
[t t once. Roses make a lot of roots, how- 
e in autumn, and the best plan would 
leave it till March, when it would be 
u , more strongly rooted. If the stems are 
rlong we should cut them back to 18 in., 
icif longer cut them back to half their 
nh at planting time. 
3 r. Roses for Pot Culture. 
I ave grown Roses with fair success out- 
d but would like to try my hand with 
; in a greenhouse. I do not want tall- 
rcing kinds, but some that would bloom 
ey, though only of moderate size and 
od not be too tall for the stages. (J. 
.:/., Essex.) 
!u do not mention how many Roses you 
a, but we have selected nine belonging to 
.r different classes. Tea Roses are : 
a • Roberts, apricot with a coppery base; 
resmaid, pink; and Mme. Hoste, lemon- 
ebw. Hybrid Teas of moderate growth 
3)your purpose are :—Liberty and Rich- 
ici (crimson) and Lady Battersea (cerise), 
[•rid Perpetuals that would suit might 
rude Captain Hayward (crimson), Mrs. 
0. Laing (rose-pink) and Frau Karl 
Jiichki (white). If these Roses are lifted 
uoi the ground when you get them, it 
rdd not be advisable to force the plants 
vipplying much heat. Indeed, the best 
1 would be to pot them, prune them 
ally hard and stand them in a greenhouse 
/Ire frost is just kept out. They have to 
n:e roots before they can do much and 
f rey give you some Roses the first year 
,fr potting so far so good, but we should 
ic apply any heat to them until they have 
n another season’s growth in the pots, 
i t they have flowered for the first time 
r c can stand them out of doors to com- 
> 1 3 their growth, keeping them watered 
Through the summer. In the autumn you 
r. d repot them, prune them and take them 
r 1 a house when you wish to start them 
ipn, and you can then hurry them along 
’[giving a "temperature at night of 50 degs. 
'ing to 60 degs. as they get into full 
pvvth with a rise by day with sun-heat. 
I y will 9 tand this treatment after they 
uje been established in pots. \\ ithout any 
Ting at all they will give you Roses in 
nance of those in the open air. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3)8. Climbers for a House. 
want about half-a-dozen climbing shrubs 
f< the front of a house. Would you please 
gp me the names of the same through your 
Pies. There is a yellow-flowered variety 
T blooms in winter. Can you tell me the 
npe of that ? The soil is chalky and dry in 
sumer. Would they require any particu- 
k soil? (Climbers, Surrey.) 
,f the soil has not been disturbed, or, at 
l«>t, for many years, where you intend to 
put these climbers it would be well to 
t;j out a trench at least 2 ft. wide and as 
d n. Even below this the soil should be 
" 1 loosened up with a fork. If the ma¬ 
il al which you take out of the trench is 
f rly good you could mix it with manure 
and return it again to the trench. If it is 
altogether bad, it would be worth your 
while to get some fresh soil, even if it con¬ 
sisted largely of the parings of road sides, 
scourings of ditches or any material of that 
sort. This will hold the moisture in summer 
better than chalk and enable the climbers 
to make 9. good start. The yellow-flowered 
shrub that blooms in winter is most likely 
Jasminum nudiflorum, which is of easy cul¬ 
ture. Other plants you might employ are 
the Fiery Thorn (Crataegus Pyracantha Le- 
landi), Clematis Jackmani, Ampelopsis 
Veitchi, Rose Reve d’Or, a yellow variety, 
and Rose Longworth Rambler, crimson. If 
you prepare the soil in the way advised all 
of the above subjects will succeed. To help 
them during the first summer or two you 
could mulch the ground with some well- 
decayed manure or some leaf mould, and if 
the birds are likely to scatter this about a 
little soil could be taken off the border, the 
mulch put on and the soil spread over the 
mulch again. The Ampelopsis would colour 
up well in tutumn in your soil and is purely 
a foliage plant. All the others are flower¬ 
ing climbers. 
3399. Weeping Tree for Lawn. 
Would you please name a weeping tree 
high enough to sit under in fine weather and 
be shady. I want to plant it on the middle 
of the lawn. Is it too late to plant it this 
year? .(New Comer, Herts.) 
There are numerous weeping trees, but 
their height depends upon the stock upon 
which they are grafted. \our best plan 
will be to visit a nursery and see the length 
of the stock for yourself, or if that is in¬ 
convenient, let your nurseryman know the 
length of stem you require. .Several of them 
would not give much shade owing to the 
narrow character of their leaves. The Weep¬ 
ing Mountain Elm (Ulmus montana pendula) 
is one of the best you could obtain for the 
purpose you mention. The Kilmarnock 
Willow (Salix Caprea pendula) has broad 
leaves and would give the shade necessary, 
but it would require more training upon 
wires to get it to form the same width of 
head as the Mountain Elm, which would 
produce a wide head without any training 
whatever. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3 4-0 0. Points of a Single Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. 
Please discuss the points of a single 
Chrysanthemum for exhibition purposes. 
(H. Staddon, Essex.) 
Single Chrysanthemums should be shown 
in bunches of. three or more flowers cut with 
long leafy stems. The blooms should, of 
course, be disbudded to get them of good 
size. Sometimes 'there are classes for large 
as well as small single Chrysanthemums, 
as there are now numerous varieties in culti¬ 
vation, and if a society wishes to be fairly 
precise they could offer prizes for two sizes. 
To get each variety to go to its proper size it 
must be disbudded, unless the schedule dis¬ 
tinctly states otherwise. In judging these 
singles a point of importance is the diameter 
of the flower, which would, therefore, be 
the first thing to consider. The blooms 
should be regular in outline with flat and 
horizontal rays and otherwise well propor¬ 
tioned and symmetrical. Most varieties 
would naturally assume a regular sym¬ 
metry, but they have enemies to contend 
with’ which sometimes injure the buds in 
their early stages of growth. A good culti¬ 
vator has, of course, to guard against this. 
Another point is the colour of the flowers. 
Each variety shown in a stand should be 
quite distinct from another, and the dark 
and light colours should be regularly dis¬ 
tributed. Clear and pleasing colours 
should, of course, have the preference. The 
florets should also be of good substance, 
otherwise they will not hold up well when 
cut. The disc should be perfectly circular 
and clear in colour. The flowers should also 
be fresh by being cut in their prime and, 
as in all other cases of exhibition flowers, 
every bloom in a bunch should be of the 
same size as another. This, of course, 
equalises the bunches and shows that care 
has been taken in selecting them. 
FRUIT. 
3401. Apples to Name. 
I will be much obliged if you will kindly 
tell me the name of the three Apples en¬ 
closed, and also if any of them would be 
considered dessert Apples? (E. J. Elles¬ 
mere, Shropshire.) 
Your Apples are :—(1) Pott’s Seedling, a 
cooking Apple now in season; (2) Hanwell 
Souring, cooking, November and December ; 
(3) Adam’s Pearmain, dessert, November and 
December. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
3402. Pests in the Garden. 
I should be greatly obliged if you would 
tell me through your columns how I can 
treat our garden, which is rather old, to rid 
it of pests. We seem to have a sample of 
every kind, such as slugs, beetles, cock¬ 
roaches, wood-lice, centipedes, etc., which 
seem to have an appetite for anything, es¬ 
pecially Carnations, and the choicer the 
better. I have several established Rose trees 
and Lilies, such as Martagons, which I wish 
to avoid moving, if possible, because they 
have taken some time to get settled. I should 
be glad if you will tell me What to do or to 
use under these conditions to free the gar¬ 
den of such pests. (Hensicks, Essex.) 
We quite understand the trouble you have 
in an old neglected garden, but if there are 
.others immediately close to yours that are 
neglected, yours is likely to get more than 
its share of the pests you name. Within 
your own garden you can, however, adopt a 
variety of measures to get rid of the pests 
you mention. You must see first that there 
are no heaps or piles of unnecessary rubbish 
in any part of the garden, as these serve as 
hiding places. Then, if surrounded by walls 
in which the crevices offer hiding places to 
beetles and woodlice, you should have these 
seams filled up with cement or good holding 
mortar. Another precaution is to destroy all 
green weeds by one or other means that ma}’ 
be in the garden during autumn and winter. 
Grasses and other weeds not only afford shel¬ 
ter but food to a variety of pests. Weeds 
may be hoed up and raked off or else buried 
by digging or trenching; in some cases it 
may only be convenient to dig the soil shal¬ 
lowly for the purpose of burying weeds, but 
it is a plan that should be adopted if neces¬ 
sary. Then, we should advise you to make 
it a rule to trench so much of the garden 
every year, so that in course of time all the 
bare ground in winter would be trenched and 
loosened up to a considerable depth, avoid¬ 
ing established Roses and Lilies. This 
would help to get rid of a great variety of 
enemies and at the same time would benefit 
the plants immensely. Possibly one of the 
best remedies vou could take would be to 
cover all the bare ground with a dressing 
of gas lime at the present time. If you do 
not intend to dig the ground immediately 
the surface of the soil could simply be 
pointed over to hide the gas lime if you ob¬ 
ject to its appearance. You should not plant 
anything in the ground for at least two 
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