73 2 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
November 21, 190S 
months after using the gas lime. If you 
c-annot get gas lime, freshly ground or 
burned lime would answer the purpose ad¬ 
mirably to destroy slugs and some of the 
other vermin. Some of the beetles may be 
perfectly harmless to vegetation, and it is 
not always wise to kill everything that 
crawls or flies. It is well to know a little 
of those insects which are your friends. We 
cannot well understand cockroaches being in 
the garden, unless they have something to 
afford them dry and warm shelter. Wood- 
lice like this sort of protection, and where 
you find them in great - plenty and cannot 
well get at them by ordinary means, you can 
often destroy them wholesale by pouring 
boiling water into the cracks or crevices 
where they take up their quarters. Then, in 
spring, after you have planted out the 
ground with flowers or vegetables, you could 
give the ground a dressing with “ Alphol ” 
or “ Kilogrub,” which are harmless to 
plants, but serve to drive away or destroy a 
great many enemies that infest the ground. 
When slugs are active on warm, dewy nights 
in spring, a good plan would be to gO' out at 
night or early in the morning and give them 
a dusting of quicklime, avoiding the plants 
while doing so. 
SOILS AND MANURES . 
3403. Manures for Pot Roses. 
I have some Roses in pots just placed in a 
greenhouse to flower early. What manure 
would you recommend to push them along ? 
How should I apply it, and how often? (R. 
Archer, Middlesex.) 
Manure is not likely to push them along at 
the present time, as heat and the necessary 
amount of water are the principal adjuncts 
until the plants have made some growth. 
When well into leaf the roots should also be 
active, when a dressing of nitrogen, in some 
form or other, would prove a good stimulant 
to growth of wood and foliage, and this 
may be applied in a variety of ways. Soot, 
fcwl manure or sheep droppings could be 
placed in a coarse bag and dropped into the 
tank from which you take water to water the 
Roses. You could, indeed, have a separate 
tank or barrel for liquid manures, and use 
one or other of those manures. A tablespoon - 
ful of guano might be put into a gallon of 
water and used at alternate waterings. See 
that it is properly rubbed or broken fine be¬ 
fore putting it in the water. Some of the 
advertised manures are also .an excellent all¬ 
round food for Roses, and may be employed 
from the time the plants are well into growth 
until the flowers are about to open. Direc¬ 
tions are usually supplied with them, as they 
are useful for mixing with the soil at pot¬ 
ting time or in water when watering. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
3404. Best Books on Gardening. 
Could any reader kindly give a list of a 
few of the best books on gardening for a 
small garden library? (A. B., Ayrshire.) - 
There is' no lack of bocks for quite a 
variety of purposes in the garden, but evi¬ 
dently our correspondent wishes someone 
who has used certain books . to give their 
opinion as to which are the best for a given 
purpose. A mere list of such books would 
supply what is desired. 
3405. Getting Rid of Horseradish. 
About two years ago some Horseradish 
came up in my garden, where I grew vege¬ 
tables, and 1 had it hoed down several times, 
but it seems to come up stronger than ever. 
As I want to make a Rose bed there, can you 
suggest how I can get rid of the Horse¬ 
radish? I have no idea how it came there. 
(Radish, Lancs.) 
There are several ways by which the 
Horseradish could have got into your, gar¬ 
den. If you never grew it there, it is pos- 
,-ible it could have come with manure applied 
to the vegetable garden, or some scraps of 
Radish might have been thrown over the gar¬ 
den by the inmates of the house after using 
the useful portions. The least scrap of root 
will grow. As you intend to make a Rose 
bed, no better plan could be adopted than to 
trench the ground at least 2 ft. deep. When 
you come across any pieces of Radish it 
should not be pulled up, but the soil removed 
even to a greater depth until you get every 
thick portion that is at all likely to grow in 
the soil. You could thus get rid of the 
Radish by getting it thoroughly out at the 
roots while the process of trenching is going 
on. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(Alton) 4, Hippe.astrum reticulatum; 5, 
consult next week’s number. 
(A. D. R.) 1, Cotoneaster microphylla; 2, 
Gotoneaster Nummularia; 3, Clematis Vi¬ 
ta lha ; 4, Crataegus Fyraoantha; 5, Snow- 
berry ('Symphoricarpus racemdsus). 
(R. Wallace) 1, Begonia metalLica; 2, Be¬ 
gonia evansiana; 3, Asplenium bulbiferum 
fabianum. 
(H. B., Renfrew) 1, Salvia splendens; 2, 
Ophiopogcn Jaburan variegatus ; 3, Senecio 
Kaempferi aureo-maculatus (often named 
Farfugium grande); 4, Cleyera japonica 
variegata (often named Eurya 1ati folia varie¬ 
gate) ; 5, Scirpus cernuus (best known as 
Isolepis gracilis); 6, Aralia elegantissima. 
(C. W., Yorks) i, Cupressus obtusa; 2, 
Thuya plicate ; 3, Cryptomeria japonica ele- 
gans (it usually assumes this colour in au¬ 
tumn); 4, Cupressus pisifera plumosa. 
NAMES OF FRUITS. 
(Alton) Apples : 1, Nelson Codlin ; 2, Cel¬ 
lini ; 3, Pickering’s Seedling. 
,(Rockfoil) 1, Ribston Pippin; 2, Waltham 
Abbey Seedling. 
-- « 
TRADE CATALOGUE (RECEIVED. 
Amos Perry, Hardy Plant Farm, Enfield, 
Middlesex. — Catalogue of Ornamental Trees 
and Shrubs, etc. 
The National Chrysanthemum Society’s Show. 
At the Judges’ Luncheon held at the 
Crystal Palace on November 4th, the first 
day of the show, Sir Albert Rollit, 
D.C.L., LL.D., president of the society, 
occupied the chair, and there was a large 
muster of judges, exhibitors, officers and 
other members of the society. Consider¬ 
able enthusiasm was aroused by the re¬ 
ceipt of a telegram from the president of 
the French Chrysanthemum Society at 
Tours sending cordial greetings to their 
English brethren, and a reply was sent 
later reciprocating the good wishes of the 
French Chrysanthemists. The president 
proposed the joint toast, “The Judges 
and Exhibitors,” and in doing so called 
attention to the educational work which 
the society was undertaking by encourag¬ 
ing the culture of the Chrysanthemum. 
The toast of the Crystal Palace Co. was 
proposed by Mr. E. F. Hawes and replied 
to on behalf of the company by Mr. C. 
0 . Starr, the general manager. The 
chairman of the Executive Committee, 
Mr. T. Bevan, prpposed the toast of “The 
President,” which was enthusiastically 
received with musical honours. In ac¬ 
knowledging the toast Sir Albert Rollit 
said that he felt a great personal interest 
in the National Chrysanthemum Society. 
He had had pleasure in presenting special 
prizes in connection with the show which 
was being held, and he would indicate 
his interest in the same practical way 
again. 
On November 16th, at Penrhyn Hi 
Redhill, Mr. W. S. Murray, of the :m 
of James Murray and Sons, Deptf-d, 
London, S.E., gave an illustrated lec re 
on “Seed Inoculation with Nitrogen x- 
ing Bacteria.” 
Aster vimineus Maidenhood. 
The stems of this variety are 2 ft to 
3 ft. long, branched almost from the he 
and bearing a profusion of small w te 
Daisy-like flowers. Award of Merit iv 
the R. H. S., in October, when showrbv 
the Hon. Vicary Gibbs (gardener, r. 
E. Beckett), Aldenham House, Elstr. 
French Gardening. 
Before the members of the Alton He i- 
cultural Society, Mr. Walter F. Giles if 
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, 
cently delivered a highly interesting d 
instructive lecture on “French Gard- 
ing,” the lecture being illustrated by se e 
capital lantern slides from photogra s 
taken by Mr. Giles when on Continei 1 
journeys for his firm. A report of e 
lecture occupies three and a half colurs 
in the “Hampshire Herald ”‘for Nov< - 
ber 7th. A vote of thanks to the lectu r 
and Messrs. Sutton and Sons was hear y 
carried. 
The Cultivation of Carnations. 
At the last meeting of the Croydon < i 
District Horticultural Mutual Impro - 
ment Society a very interesting paper 1 
the open-air cultivation of Carnatic5 
was read by Mr. C. Blick, of Warn 
House Gardens, Hayes. In the select) 1 
of varieties Mr. Blick advised those wh:i 
have less tendency to burst their cal;. 
The non-bursters may be selected 1 
their long buds. Some kinds do better 1 
some districts than in others, and the: 
can only be ascertained by experien. 
Weakly growers should be discarded ) 
make room for those of more robust hat. 
In making the border care must be ex ¬ 
cised in allowing space, light, and pier 
of air, and the border should face sou 
Good drainage is required, and this : 
uest done by raising the border three 1 
six inches. The soil should be stro 
virgin loam, adding well-rotted cc 
manure, mortar rubble, soot and ro 
grit, with a slight addition of bone du 
To obtain the best results the borej 
should be made each year. Of cour 
with virgin soil one must keep a watchf 
eye for wire worm, a pest which so oft 
attacks these plants. Plant in the be 
ders well-rooted layers that have n 
flowered, the best time being about t 
middle of October. Plant fairly deep 
and very firmly. Due attention must 
given that they make a good start, a: 
should any fail during the cold wint 
months an auxiliary stock should be ke 
in the cold frame to replace them 
February. After the frosts examine ea- 
plant, and should the earth appear loo 
press it clown around the plant. Staki, 
with green coil sticks should be done 
the spring, and when tying up leave tl 
raffia loosely tied to the stake so that 
rises with the plant’s growth. To war 
the end of May pay attention to waterin 
and plentiful syringing may be given dui 
ing hot and dry weather. Green fly mu) 
be watched for, and is easily kept dov 
by tobacco powder put on with a diffuse) 
Where exhibition flowers are required di 
budding around the crown bud must h 
adopted. Layering for next season’s su]j 
ply is best done soon after flowering. 
